Restoration for Juki LU-562 & upgrade to LU-563 Bobbin

[CowboyBob]

3 hours ago, JJN said:

@Vinito, it makes sense that a larger hook will require a take-up arm with a longer pull to take up the slack thread once the thread passes around the bobbin. I measured my machines and the 563 take-up arm is almost 1/2 inch longer than the 562.

@CowboyBob, do you stock this part? @JJN IDK I'm on vacation till next week & can check with my Son & let you know.

Here is a genuine Juki take up arm that appears to fit the LU-563.  I have bought many items from this seller with only 1 wrong part.

$52.50

Juki part # B1905-563-000

For Juki LU-1508, LU-1508N, LU-1509N, LU-1510, LU-1510-7, LU-1510N, LU-1510N-7

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Thread-Take-Up-Lever-For-Juki-LU-1508-LU-1510-Sewing-Machine-Genuine-Part/401116112683

 

[dikman]

As you add other bits (with different colours) it's starting to tone down the gold colour. Not quite as much in-your-face effect. Looking better.

[Vinito]

1 hour ago, dikman said:

As you add other bits (with different colours) it's starting to tone down the gold colour. 

Well in that case, here's a taste of the whole enchilada then.

It still needs about 37 adjustments before it will work, but the parts are all in place now. The original parts I mean... since I'm still waiting on upgrade parts, I figured I'd just put it back together as it was and do the upgrade once it's all ready to toss in there.

How 'bout a after & before side by side?

I'm considering black hammered paint on the front and top cover plates, but not sure yet. It's kinda OK as it is. We'll see.

Edited October 21, 2019 by Vinito

[dikman]

That actually looks pretty good now. Definitely black on the top plate as it's next to the black handwheel (and probably the front plate too).

I hope it works after all this effort.

[Vinito]

Got a phone call today regarding my upgrade parts. Looks like the take-up lever is two weeks out (I interpret that as "minimum two weeks") and the other parts on the list are moot without all of them in-hand. So I guess I'm in no particular rush for the upgrade then.

I'll continue to do some measuring and thinking on the comparison of parts and options for a bobbin upgrade, because depending on how many parts and/or how much you are willing to spend, there are at least four different levels between minimum and complete conversion a guy could choose from.

I figure I might could go with a different source for my parts and luck out for getting them quicker, but I figger it will take me some time anyway to go through the machine and tweak it to my goal where it functions extremely well. Thus probably no big gain deciding to rush things. Also, I was somewhat impressed that my parts source actually called me to update me on the status - pretty rare these days I think. So I'll just start with setting it up to work as a stock 562 for now.

I agree that it seems like the cover plates would look better with the black hammered paint. I think it will end up there ultimately. My competing thought is that the bare metal would be more durable vs. the occasional scratch or the like, but of course that increases the already inevitable chance of rust. So if the practical options are a wash, might as well make it pretty.

And I totally echo hopes that all this effort ends up with a well-working specimen. I kinda like these mechanical puzzles so it's been fun for me. I've been restoring things in this manner for forever so I wasn't scared to jump right in. You never know exactly where things end up I guess, but I'm pretty happy with how it has turned out so far.

Besides restoring the head, I'm adding some cog belt pulleys between it and the motor to slow down the machine to 1/3 of current speed. That will suit what I want out of it much better too. Before I know it, I should have a pretty sweet setup.

 

[JJN]

@Vinito, I spent a few minutes looking at the 562 and the 563 side by side and made some observations.

Photo 1 - the opening in the bed casting needs to notched to allow the 'bobbin case opening lever crank' to clear when you slide the saddle to the right for the larger hook.

Photo 2 - you can see the 'bobbin case opening lever crank' is beveled on the upper left corner of the 563 to clear the larger hook.

Photo 3 - You were asking how much to mill the top of the upper bushing. You suggested .100" and the video mentions a few thousands. The goal is to get the finger on the hook assembly to fit at the correct height in the notch of the throat plate. You should be able to measure how much you need to mill the bushing by putting the new hook in position and see how high it sits.

 

[DonInReno]

Thanks for taking the time to post those pics!  

[Vinito]

Excellent info.

Note that the genuine 563 has a different saddle and crank than the 562, so if you're doing the budget upgrade and just changing the lever and using the 562 saddle and crank, you probably won't need to mill that relief in the bed casting. Thus going either full conversion or budget conversion, you're gonna need to do some milling, either in the saddle & crank to clear the large bobbin(budget upgrade) or the bed to clear the larger parts (full upgrade).

I could be wrong about the bed not needing milling on the budget upgrade because the thing will set more to the right on the larger hook, but I've never seen or heard it mentioned before so I suspect it might not be necessary. I can switch some parts out on mine since I'm stumbling around in there anyway and I'll report what I find. I probably won't have time until the weekend though.

[DonInReno]

Using a counterbore with removable pilot in the drill press would seem to be pretty straight forward since finding a bushing to bridge the gap between an undersized pilot and hook shank bore is just a little measuring and fiddling with scrap tubing in the junk drawer.  The downside is $60 in the cutter and pilot for people that would use it once.

Ill just chuck it in the 4 jaw, but there must be an easy way for someone without a lathe or mill.

[DanMesser]

Hi Vinito, I love what you did to your Juki.  I have a question for you; I recently purchased barely used Juki Lu-563 that had something fall on it and the Main shaft is bent. I purchased this machine mainly for spare parts for my other Juki-563 that I already own.  I thought for couple hundred bucks, I have a trove of spare parts in case something happens to my beloved Juki.  Initially, I thought the damage was more severe because the machine would not turn and the clutch mechanism was engaged and nothing seemed to work. But upon further inspection I noticed there was a clump of thread stuck underneath the bobin case (which is quite common with these machines) and upon removal of the thread and oiling the machine, I was able to disengage the clutch and as it turns out the machine turns smoothly as it should and there is no damage to the internal parts besides the small external bend in the shaft where the hand wheel sits.  So, now I am thinking I should fix it and use it instead of just keeping it for parts.  Is there any literature that you recommend looking at before I start taking things apart? I do not want to damage any other parts trying to remove the shaft and since the bend is outside the head pulling it through the front may be a bit tricky.  I will try to post a pic of how the damage looks like.  Regards,