Wrestling match- which machine is Best

[jrprottas]

After months of the excitement and aggravation of reading things on this forum and elsewhere in an attempt to figure out which first machine is best, I'm still lost.

I realize that projects range from sewing dainty silk lingerie to saddles and asbestos suits. All I want is a machine that will do card cases/wallets (6OZ), but which can also do wilderness strength small back packs (up to 30oz total).  

Is #69 thread ok for card cases and billfolds?

Is #210 on the weak side for bags and small backpacks? Is #210 thread at 32 pounds of strength enough for most bags?

When a company claims a thread range of #69-210 can this range be accomplished without the hour+ long process of dumbing it down?

Several machines claim this range of thread sizes, and 7/16 to 5/8" depths.  Cobra Class 26, Techsew 3650,  Techsew 2750, CB341, ETC. 

The more I think this thru the more I think a sub-441 class will meet my needs. Am I missing something else?

Thanks in advance for your patience and for sharing your experiences .

[Ferg]

I believe your main problem is that you are wanting a machine to do two extremes.

Sorry, but you need two machines. A flat bed that will handle #69 - #138, and a cylinder arm with an accessory flat bed table that will give you #92 - #207.

#69 will be okay for most interiors of wallets and the like, you need to use minimum #92 for exteriors while #138 is better. Back packs and the like need at least #138. You utilize both machines in this endeavor.

Sorry if that doesn't help your problem.

Ferg

[DonInReno]

A walking foot upholstery machine is a good middle of the road choice for anything other than light weight sewing, but I’m assuming you already have a light weight machine of some kind?

 

[jrprottas]

8 minutes ago, DonInReno said:

A walking foot upholstery machine is a good middle of the road choice for anything other than light weight sewing, but I’m assuming you already have a light weight machine of some kind?

 

Actually this would be my first machine.  I like your term "middle of the road" as it describes what I'd like to get if its possible. Something that I could I initially use for wallets and small bags until I find a niche. I realize I cant do saddle work or fine stitching with such a machine. I realize it would represent compromise: 1/2" depth rather than 7/8", a 277 thread weight rather than 415, etc

And I definately don't want a compromise that doesnt do anything very well,  and end up buying 3 machines.

[Wizcrafts]

4 minutes ago, jrprottas said:

Actually this would be my first machine.  I like your term "middle of the road" as it describes what I'd like to get if its possible. Something that I could I initially use for wallets and small bags until I find a niche. I realize I cant do saddle work or fine stitching with such a machine. I realize it would represent compromise: 1/2" depth rather than 7/8", a 277 thread weight rather than 415, etc

And I definately don't want a compromise that doesnt do anything very well,  and end up buying 3 machines.

This describes the Cowboy CB3200. You would want to order it with a range of needles and thread covering thread sizes #92 through 277. Then, consider a flat slotted throat plate for lighter weight projects and smaller thread and needles. Get lots of bobbins and preload them with various sizes of thread. Buy thread spools in pairs of each color so you can wind a fresh bobbin as you sew.

[kgg]

I agree with Ferg, you need two machines. Another consideration that I would consider is the shank diameter of the needle as this will determine the size of the hole in the leather or fabric that the thread is going to pass through. A common needle system for upholstery type machines is the 135x16/17 with a shank diameter of 2.0 mm while for a heavy duty cylinder machine like the CB3200 it would 794 needle with a shank diameter of 2.5 mm. Doesn't seem much of a difference but could really make a difference in stitching methods and appearance.

Before you buy your machine, as it is an expensive investment, go to a dealer with a sample of your stuff, compare and see what fits your needs / budget best. Buy Once, Cry Once.

kgg   

[DonInReno]

Welcome to the sewing world - you’ll have a bit of learning curve to get over before things get easy, but just keep at it and you’ll get it.

Most middle of the road machines can’t sew 277 - for that you’d need a machine like  Wiz suggests.  No matter how much research is done, nothing will give you a better idea of what a machine is like and if it’s what you want than actually sewing with it.  

[Louiesdad]

Try to go to a Juki dealer and let them show you the differences between the "real deals" and clones....the side by side differences will amaze you.

Buy used if necessary to get the machine(s) needed, and remember the "real deals" rarely if  ever wear out....

[jrprottas]

I'm already stretching my wife's limit buying a clone and havnt educated myself about the originals.  Can you outline the Juki model numbers that correspond to the specs of the machines above?

I would probably need to buy an older Juki workhorse to get into this class. Can you suggest a few of the classics?

Buying the very best has always been my MO so I could definately justify if fairly reasonable. Thanks

[kgg]

9 hours ago, Louiesdad said:

Try to go to a Juki dealer and let them show you the differences between the "real deals" and clones....the side by side differences will amaze you.

Totally agree. When I was looking for a compound flatbed I looked at and test drove a few of the Chinese Clones in the upholstery class. Some I have to admit did a pretty good stitch others vibrated, crunched and just sounded like a bucket of bolts banging around. Needless to say I bought the Juki 1541S and have been very pleased that I bought it. Down the road when I need / want another machine I know that the Juki is going to be easier to sell and have better resale value then that of a comparable clone.

36 minutes ago, jrprottas said:

I'm already stretching my wife's limit buying a clone and havnt educated myself about the originals.

If dollars are the major factor buy a good used brand name from a reputable dealer in the class you need like a Singer, Juki, Pfaff, Alder and test drive it with your stuff.

kgg