iron1951 Report post Posted October 25, 2019 I am contemplating stripping and powder coating an "old iron" machine as a method of restoration. Has anyone tried it on a machine body? Were you pleased with the results? Would you recommend powder coating vs painting? Can you put decals on powder coat and then clear coat it? I already have an oven. Want to purchase a gun. I would like to hear some opinions. Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fredk Report post Posted October 25, 2019 My experience of powder coating is on vintage car parts and not a sewing machine a. the finish can be better than painting but it is thicker. b. the powder coating can be tougher than paint c. yes, you can apply decals on it and varnish over it. d. you imply you are going to do it yourself. don't forget to plug screw and bolt holes and cover any screw or bolt threads sticking out. you can buy plastic plugs for the holes and plastic caps for the sticky-out bolts e. done well a powder coat finish can look like a baked on enamel finish as per original old machines Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iron1951 Report post Posted October 25, 2019 Powder coating sounds what I am looking for. Plus it can be applied in "not so good" weather. I am concerned about the thickness factor. Others please chime in. Powder coating could be what I am looking for in the winter time. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Frodo Report post Posted October 26, 2019 powder coating you can use this machine, it worked fine for me, you need to sand blast or bead blast all parts before coating, , other wise you may get some rough / ugly spots do not touch the parts with your bare hands after sand blasting. use gloves [oil on your skin] any area that has to have a tight fit when assembled needs masking off. i spent 4 hours sliding a bolt in and out of a receiver to wear the coating down enough for smooth operation after spraying, you can either let hang dry or bake. i used a old gym locker with a simple hot plate on the bottom to heat hanging gun barrels be advised.. no dust can be present while drying...mask off an area with plastic,or you risk getting the fuzzies if you lave the air brush dirty, you need to buy a new one,,,dont ask,just take my word on that Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Evo160K Report post Posted October 26, 2019 Iron1951, Since you already have an oven, you might take a look at Japanning (the coating used by Singer). https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/83226-first-try-at-japanning-on-a-restoration-project-the-conclusion/?tab=comments#comment-561233 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iron1951 Report post Posted October 26, 2019 Frodo and Evo160k, thanks for your replies. I have thought about Japanning, it gives a beautiful finish, but I like the idea of spraying the finish. I never seem to have any luck with brushes. Does anyone have a picture of a sewing machine that has been powder coated? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fredk Report post Posted October 26, 2019 As frodo has said; surface preparation is a priority for a good top finish. I don't do the coating myself but I get it done. One place I used to use did not do the surface prep properly and the powder coating just peeled off, like a skin off a banana. Another place, which i now use, does a proper prep and nothing short of a nuclear blast takes off their coatings One thing I found out is to put cast iron items in a hot air environment with hot air circulating and venting and refreshing for a long period. This removes moisture which the cast iron has absorbed. Cast iron absorbs quite a bit of moisture from the atmosphere**. If left on it forms rust bubbles under the powder coating A friend showed me how much on a cast iron car manifold [exhaust header to US readers]. The weight of the manifold dropped by almost 5% upon drying. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chrisash Report post Posted October 26, 2019 Does it take much voltage to powder coat prior to the oven? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iron1951 Report post Posted October 26, 2019 Fredk, I did not know that about cast iron. So putting it in the oven to dry it out will only enhance the sticking power of the powder. They use heat to powder coat glass (from what I read). Chrisash, the oven I am going to use is just a regular oven I found on the side of the road. So the amount of electricity used would probably be not much more than the amount needed to bake a pie. Haven't done any powder coating yet, don't even own the electrostatic gun, but I believe the part only needs to be in the oven for about a half hour after the oven has been preheated. Someone correct me please if I am wrong. Anthony Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DonInReno Report post Posted October 27, 2019 The biggest downside to powder coating the machines I’ve stripped over the years would have been a lack of filler to smooth out the cast iron- many machines are quite rough. A tough durable powder coat looks cheap if the surface isn’t right. If the machine is going to be clear coated anyway I don’t see a big advantage to it, but I think it would be awesome to get set up to have powder coating as an option. I think powder coating metal parts of the stand would be ideal! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
amuckart Report post Posted November 2, 2019 I have a 45k25 I've been 'almost finished' restoring for about 7 years now. I had the head soda blasted then powdercoated. I'm very happy with the finish. It's a good gloss black, excellent film thickness with just a tiny bit of orange peel effect that can be seen in originals. Things I wish I'd done differently are having the head done all as one piece (which is how they were done originally but I ended up separating the arm and top for soda blasting and should have just left it as it was; and being a bit more explicit with the powdercoaters about what exactly needed masking and what didn't, because there are a couple of surfaces that didn't get masked which should have been. Overall I'm very happy with the result. It takes decals well and at some point I'll get around to finishing the decals and clear coating it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iron1951 Report post Posted November 2, 2019 Amuckart, any chance of pictures? I would love to see the final result. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
butchlambert Report post Posted November 2, 2019 Doesn't the item powder coated need to conduct electricity? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iron1951 Report post Posted November 2, 2019 butchlambert, I am no expert on powder coating because I have never done it before. I think I will be getting into it. I am going to buy my gun from the Eastwood corporation because I like the two voltage system. If you follow this link, they will explain how to powder coat glass. https://garage.eastwood.com/eastwood-chatter/can-you-powder-coat-glass/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fredk Report post Posted November 3, 2019 14 hours ago, butchlambert said: Doesn't the item powder coated need to conduct electricity? Powder coating uses static electricity. The item to be coated does not need to be able to conduct as the static elec is only on the surface The item and the powder are charged with static elec and when the powder is blown onto the item its attracted by the charge. This also means the item gets an even coat of the plastic powder all over. Then the item is heated in the oven and the plastic powder basically melts and flows together Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LumpenDoodle Report post Posted November 3, 2019 I use the Nordic Pulver powder coating gun. It’s different from the Eastwood system, in that it doesn’t need to produce an electric charge. It works with static electricity, so you don’t get that ‘halo’ magnetic effect where you cannot get the powder into the corners. Much handier for complicated shapes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Constabulary Report post Posted November 3, 2019 (edited) LumpenDoodle - now that is interesting and not even very expensive Is the backing process "smelly"? For the link and video fans: http://www.nordicpulver.dk Interesting "thingy" seems I have to take a closer look Similar US supplied system as it seems Edited November 3, 2019 by Constabulary Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
butchlambert Report post Posted November 3, 2019 13 hours ago, fredk said: Powder coating uses static electricity. The item to be coated does not need to be able to conduct as the static elec is only on the surface The item and the powder are charged with static elec and when the powder is blown onto the item its attracted by the charge. This also means the item gets an even coat of the plastic powder all over. Then the item is heated in the oven and the plastic powder basically melts and flows together Sir, how hot does the item have to be? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fredk Report post Posted November 3, 2019 22 minutes ago, butchlambert said: Sir, how hot does the item have to be? afaik about 300* to 350* F - or basically, towards to top end of a home kitchen oven's heat range afaik Large commercial places work at about 400*F Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LumpenDoodle2 Report post Posted November 4, 2019 23 hours ago, Constabulary said: LumpenDoodle - now that is interesting and not even very expensive Is the backing process "smelly"? For the link and video fans: http://www.nordicpulver.dk Interesting "thingy" seems I have to take a closer look Similar US supplied system as it seems I have the basic gun they sell, it is more than enough fir the parts I do. It has a top load for the powder feed, which I like, and I’ve never had to reload powder mid job. No noticeable pong, really from the pieces, at least in a workshop environment, and don’t use the house cooker, have a dedicated one. Also, as to temperature, I’ve found 200C max to be more than ample, but you do find that individual powders can like a bit cooler (but one I use likes 210C). Cleanliness of the parts, and pre warming them, makes a huge difference. IMHO, powder coating is 80% preparation, 10% care of coating, and 10% cooking. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handstitched Report post Posted November 4, 2019 Well, this brings back memories. Apart from the pimples & puberty... I did do a little bit of ' powder coating' in 'metal work in 1st year high school. ( well, at least I think it was 'powder coating'? ) It was a metal pen holder. Heat it up with oxy torch , and dip it in some plastic powdery ...stuff. And it comes out all beautifully coated . As for sewing machines, I'd be happy with a nice paint job and finish it off with some decals @iron1951 what machine is it ? We'd love to see a ' before & after' pic. All the best in the restoration HS Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iron1951 Report post Posted November 4, 2019 I will definitely show some before and aft pics. Its going to be a while. Don't even own a gun yet. I'm not sure which machine I will try it on. I want to get them sewing properly before I tear them down. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LumpenDoodle2 Report post Posted November 4, 2019 Ages ago I read on a forum that some folk have had success powder coating over JB Weld, but only pin holes, nothing big. Might be worth trying it out, but I suggest googling, because I can’t remember how they did it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
