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I have a 45k25 I've been 'almost finished' restoring for about 7 years now. I had the head soda blasted then powdercoated. I'm very happy with the finish. It's a good gloss black, excellent film thickness with just a tiny bit of orange peel effect that can be seen in originals.
Things I wish I'd done differently are having the head done all as one piece (which is how they were done originally but I ended up separating the arm and top for soda blasting and should have just left it as it was; and being a bit more explicit with the powdercoaters about what exactly needed masking and what didn't, because there are a couple of surfaces that didn't get masked which should have been.

Overall I'm very happy with the result. It takes decals well and at some point I'll get around to finishing the decals and clear coating it.

-- Al.

Medieval Stuff: http://wherearetheelves.net

Non-Medieval, including my machines: http://alasdair.muckart.net

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Posted

Doesn't the item powder coated need to conduct electricity?

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butchlambert, I am no expert on powder coating because I have never done it before. I think I will be getting into it. I am going to buy my gun from the Eastwood corporation because I like the two voltage system. If you follow this link, they will explain how to powder coat glass. https://garage.eastwood.com/eastwood-chatter/can-you-powder-coat-glass/

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Posted
14 hours ago, butchlambert said:

Doesn't the item powder coated need to conduct electricity?

Powder coating uses static electricity. The item to be coated does not need to be able to conduct as the static elec is only on the surface

 The item and the powder are charged with static elec and when the powder is blown onto the item its attracted by the charge. This also means the item gets an even coat of the plastic powder all over. Then the item is heated in the oven and the plastic powder basically melts and flows together

Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..

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Posted

I use the Nordic Pulver powder coating gun.   It’s different from the Eastwood system, in that it doesn’t need to produce an electric charge.   It works with static electricity, so you don’t get that ‘halo’ magnetic effect where you cannot get the powder into the corners.   Much handier for complicated shapes.

 

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Posted (edited)

LumpenDoodle - now that is interesting and not even very expensive

Is the backing process "smelly"?

For the link and video fans:

http://www.nordicpulver.dk

Interesting "thingy" seems I have to take a closer look   :popcorn:

 

Similar US supplied system as it seems

 

 

Edited by Constabulary

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

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Posted
13 hours ago, fredk said:

Powder coating uses static electricity. The item to be coated does not need to be able to conduct as the static elec is only on the surface

 The item and the powder are charged with static elec and when the powder is blown onto the item its attracted by the charge. This also means the item gets an even coat of the plastic powder all over. Then the item is heated in the oven and the plastic powder basically melts and flows together

Sir, how hot does the item have to be?

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Posted
22 minutes ago, butchlambert said:

Sir, how hot does the item have to be?

afaik about 300* to 350* F - or basically, towards to top end of a home kitchen oven's heat range

afaik Large commercial places work at about 400*F

Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..

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Posted
23 hours ago, Constabulary said:

LumpenDoodle - now that is interesting and not even very expensive

Is the backing process "smelly"?

For the link and video fans:

http://www.nordicpulver.dk

Interesting "thingy" seems I have to take a closer look   :popcorn:

 

Similar US supplied system as it seems

 

 

I have the basic gun they sell, it is more than enough fir the parts I do.   It has a top load for the powder feed, which I like, and I’ve never had to reload powder mid job.

No noticeable pong, really from the pieces, at least in a workshop environment, and don’t use the house cooker, have a dedicated one.    Also, as to temperature, I’ve found 200C max to be more than ample, but you do find that individual powders can like a bit cooler (but one I use likes 210C).   Cleanliness of the parts, and pre warming them, makes a huge difference.

IMHO, powder coating is 80% preparation, 10% care of coating, and 10% cooking.

 

“Equality?   Political correctness gone mad, I tell you, gone mad!!!!    Next they'll be wanting the vote!!!!! :crazy:“.

Anger and intolerance are the enemy of correct understanding

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