Members NWBicketLeatherCollc Posted November 13, 2019 Members Report Posted November 13, 2019 Does anyone have any good tips- with legitimate reasoning why you use one or the other for the type of leather you use to make 8' split reins with water loops? I have used both- latigo seems to be easier to get heavier sides (thicker reins) and I am always impressed by the durability, but I like the way bridle/ harness finishes and is much more pliable. I have thought about doubling up lighter weight latigo and stitching but together but I also feel this is a somewhat unnecessary step especially when there isn't much of a return for spending a lot of time on reins. If I were to double and stitch say something in the ball park of 7/8 oz. H.O. latigo- should I apply barges in between? Or add anything in the ends for weight? Do you hot dip? What temp do you like to put your oil at? Thanks in advance Quote
Members BigSiouxSaddlery Posted November 14, 2019 Members Report Posted November 14, 2019 Hermann Oak russet harness, in the heaviest weight available, and don't double and stitch them if they're just everyday usin' reins. . .it is not possible to get a better feeling set of reins, and they only get better with use. Most of the single ply reins that are advertised to be "weighted" have simply been cut from a side with an exceptionally heavy neck. Nothing additional is done to achieve the "weighted" status. I don't heat oil hotter than I can stand to put my finger in. Honestly, I oil way more stuff cold than I do heated, and I don't see a difference in the end product. Eventually the oil migrates all the way through, regardless if it's heated or not when applied. Quote
Members NWBicketLeatherCollc Posted November 14, 2019 Author Members Report Posted November 14, 2019 BigSiouxSaddley- Awesome intel- thank you very much. I am curious- are you talking about HO's "Old World Harness- Russet "English"?" Is it possible to get away with lower grades? Or do you recommend Grade A and to use the rest of the side to maximize inventory? I'm thinking maybe breast collars or working headstalls/ bridles? HO's website has an "English" option with an adder of $13- I assume this is the one I am looking for? The issue is I wouldn't say I am in the market for a 5 side minimum though... Do you have any recommendations for a supplier that deals by the side?! You're using pure neats foot I am assuming? Would you mind maybe going into a little detail on your oiling/ conditioning process? Again, thank you very much. Quote
Members Cattledude Posted November 14, 2019 Members Report Posted November 14, 2019 I like to use HO skirting for my reins, as said before, use the neck for the weighted end. I like to case, edge, and stretch before I oil with warm olive oil and follow up the next day with oil/beeswax for the finish. in my experience, "lower grade" sides make lower grade products. Sometimes you can get by with it but it's not worth the chance. Good luck! Quote
Members NWBicketLeatherCollc Posted November 14, 2019 Author Members Report Posted November 14, 2019 1 hour ago, Cattledude said: I like to use HO skirting for my reins, as said before, use the neck for the weighted end. I like to case, edge, and stretch before I oil with warm olive oil and follow up the next day with oil/beeswax for the finish. in my experience, "lower grade" sides make lower grade products. Sometimes you can get by with it but it's not worth the chance. Good luck! Thanks for the response! I agree with the grading rule of thumb- I guess it's nice to hear other folks confirm! I'll get some pictures up once I get this batch made and go from there! Cheers! Quote
Members Rbarleatherworks Posted November 14, 2019 Members Report Posted November 14, 2019 Question ... Which end is the weighted end? The one that attached to the bit or the end Hanging down? Thanks Quote
Members NWBicketLeatherCollc Posted November 15, 2019 Author Members Report Posted November 15, 2019 22 hours ago, Rbarleatherworks said: Question ... Which end is the weighted end? The one that attached to the bit or the end Hanging down? Thanks The end that hangs down Quote
Members BigSiouxSaddlery Posted November 16, 2019 Members Report Posted November 16, 2019 On 11/14/2019 at 9:14 AM, NWBicketLeatherCollc said: BigSiouxSaddley- Awesome intel- thank you very much. I am curious- are you talking about HO's "Old World Harness- Russet "English"?" Is it possible to get away with lower grades? Or do you recommend Grade A and to use the rest of the side to maximize inventory? I'm thinking maybe breast collars or working headstalls/ bridles? HO's website has an "English" option with an adder of $13- I assume this is the one I am looking for? The issue is I wouldn't say I am in the market for a 5 side minimum though... Do you have any recommendations for a supplier that deals by the side?! You're using pure neats foot I am assuming? Would you mind maybe going into a little detail on your oiling/ conditioning process? Again, thank you very much. I do not recommend anything but the highest grade hides for reins. While the tannage is no different, lower grades will have blemishes that make it very difficult to get a straight cut the length needed for reins. If you were cutting up only small pieces, you could very well utilize lower grades. I normally buy my russet Harness leather through Weaver. However, you have to specify that you will be cutting reins, because they buy tannery run and they very well may send you a side that is not clean enough for.long straight cuts if you don't specify. They're wholesale price is very competitive, and they are fast to ship. I have ordered from Hermann Oak directly, and I just tell them I want the same russet Harness that they send Weaver. I never can remember if it's the English top coat or not. I use the 12,+ weight for reins. I feel it's too heavy for tack cuts. If you like bulk through your bridle buckles, and breastcollars that are ungodly heavy, then it might work for you. I buy 9/11 for tack cuts. The heavy end of the 9/11 is nearly always heavier than 11 oz. Yes you could buy one side and split it down for projects where you don't need that much weight, but that stuff sells by the pound, and I'd rather use what I'm paying for instead of it ending up in a pile under my splitter. . . That happens enough without doing it on purpose. If you don't have a wholesale account with Weaver, or can't qualify, there are other places that distribute for HO: Panhandle Leather, Montana Leather, Springfield, and probably others. Or, give me a few extra bucks and I'll order one for you. If I heat my oil, I use a Crock-Pot on low setting. I sacrificed one from the house to keep oil in out in the shop. I brush it on with a paint brush, or use a scrap of woolskin clipped short. Sometimes, if I have a lot of them to do, i just dip them in my harness dip tank, strip them off, and let them drain in the basket. For stuff that I know is going to hang in a barn or outbuilding, I'll use Shep's Harness Oil (that is what's in my dip tank). It has an additive that is supposed to repel rodents. I do use NF oil on higher end stuff. Quote
Members Rbarleatherworks Posted December 18, 2019 Members Report Posted December 18, 2019 On 11/15/2019 at 8:15 AM, NWBicketLeatherCollc said: The end that hangs down Thanks Quote
Members oltoot Posted December 19, 2019 Members Report Posted December 19, 2019 I always put the neck (heavy) end next to the bit and let the taper go towards the tailing end sometimes with an extra ply on the end in the form of a popper Quote
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