Weighted Split Reins

[NWBicketLeatherCollc]

Does anyone have any good tips- with legitimate reasoning why you use one or the other for the type of leather you use to make 8' split reins with water loops? I have used both- latigo seems to be easier to get heavier sides (thicker reins) and I am always impressed by the durability, but I like the way bridle/ harness finishes and is much more pliable. I have thought about doubling up lighter weight latigo and stitching but together but I also feel this is a somewhat unnecessary step especially when there isn't much of a return for spending a lot of time on reins.

If I were to double and stitch say something in the ball park of 7/8 oz. H.O. latigo- should I apply barges in between? Or add anything in the ends for weight?

Do you hot dip? What temp do you like to put your oil at?

 

Thanks in advance

[BigSiouxSaddlery]

Hermann Oak russet harness, in the heaviest weight available, and don't double and stitch them if they're just everyday usin' reins. . .it is not possible to get a better feeling set of reins, and they only get better with use. Most of the single ply reins that are advertised to be "weighted" have simply been cut from a side with an exceptionally heavy neck.  Nothing additional is done to achieve the "weighted" status.  I don't heat oil hotter than I can stand to put my finger in.  Honestly, I oil way more stuff cold than I do heated, and I don't see a difference in the end product.  Eventually the oil migrates all the way through, regardless if it's heated or not when applied.

[NWBicketLeatherCollc]

BigSiouxSaddley- Awesome intel- thank you very much. I am curious- are you talking about HO's "Old World Harness- Russet "English"?"

Is it possible to get away with lower grades? Or do you recommend Grade A and to use the rest of the side to maximize inventory? I'm thinking maybe breast collars or working headstalls/ bridles?

HO's website has an "English" option with an adder of $13- I assume this is the one I am looking for? The issue is I wouldn't say I am in the market for a 5 side minimum though... Do you have any recommendations for a supplier that deals by the side?!

You're using pure neats foot I am assuming? Would you mind maybe going into a little detail on your oiling/ conditioning process?

Again, thank you very much.

 

[Cattledude]

I like to use HO skirting for my reins, as said before, use the neck for the weighted end. I like to case, edge, and stretch before I oil with warm olive oil and follow up the next day with oil/beeswax for the finish. in my experience, "lower grade" sides make lower grade products. Sometimes you can get by with it but it's not worth the chance. Good luck!

[NWBicketLeatherCollc]

1 hour ago, Cattledude said:

I like to use HO skirting for my reins, as said before, use the neck for the weighted end. I like to case, edge, and stretch before I oil with warm olive oil and follow up the next day with oil/beeswax for the finish. in my experience, "lower grade" sides make lower grade products. Sometimes you can get by with it but it's not worth the chance. Good luck!

Thanks for the response! I agree with the grading rule of thumb- I guess it's nice to hear other folks confirm! I'll get some pictures up once I get this batch made and go from there!

 

Cheers!

[Rbarleatherworks]

Question ... Which end is the weighted end?  The one that attached to the bit or the end Hanging down?

Thanks

[NWBicketLeatherCollc]

22 hours ago, Rbarleatherworks said:

Question ... Which end is the weighted end?  The one that attached to the bit or the end Hanging down?

Thanks

The end that hangs down

[BigSiouxSaddlery]

On 11/14/2019 at 9:14 AM, NWBicketLeatherCollc said:

BigSiouxSaddley- Awesome intel- thank you very much. I am curious- are you talking about HO's "Old World Harness- Russet "English"?"

Is it possible to get away with lower grades? Or do you recommend Grade A and to use the rest of the side to maximize inventory? I'm thinking maybe breast collars or working headstalls/ bridles?

HO's website has an "English" option with an adder of $13- I assume this is the one I am looking for? The issue is I wouldn't say I am in the market for a 5 side minimum though... Do you have any recommendations for a supplier that deals by the side?!

You're using pure neats foot I am assuming? Would you mind maybe going into a little detail on your oiling/ conditioning process?

Again, thank you very much.

 

I do not recommend anything but the highest grade hides for reins.  While the tannage is no different, lower grades will have blemishes that make it very difficult to get a straight cut the length needed for reins.  If you were cutting up only small pieces, you could very well utilize lower grades.

I normally buy my russet Harness leather through Weaver.  However, you have to specify that you will be cutting reins, because they buy tannery run and they very well may send you a side that is not clean enough for.long straight cuts if you don't specify.  They're wholesale price is very competitive, and they are fast to ship.  I have ordered from Hermann Oak directly, and I just tell them I want the same russet Harness that they send Weaver.  I never can remember if it's the English top coat or not.

I use the 12,+ weight for reins.   I feel it's too heavy for tack cuts.  If you like bulk through your bridle buckles, and breastcollars that are ungodly heavy, then it might work for you.  I buy 9/11 for tack cuts.  The heavy end of the 9/11 is nearly always heavier than 11 oz.  Yes you could buy one side and split it down for projects where you don't need that much weight, but that stuff sells by the pound, and I'd rather use what I'm paying for instead of it ending up in a pile under my splitter. . . That happens enough without doing it on purpose.  If you don't have a wholesale account with Weaver, or can't qualify, there are other places that distribute for HO:  Panhandle Leather, Montana Leather, Springfield, and probably others.  Or, give me a few extra bucks and I'll order one for you.

 If I heat my oil, I use a Crock-Pot on low setting.  I sacrificed one from the house to keep oil in out in the shop.  I brush it on with a paint brush, or use a scrap of woolskin clipped short.  Sometimes, if I have a lot of them to do, i just dip them in my harness dip tank, strip them off, and let them drain in the basket.  For stuff that I know is going to hang in a barn or outbuilding, I'll use Shep's Harness Oil (that is what's in my dip tank).  It has an additive that is supposed to repel rodents.  I do use NF oil on higher end stuff.  

[Rbarleatherworks]

On 11/15/2019 at 8:15 AM, NWBicketLeatherCollc said:

The end that hangs down

Thanks

 

[oltoot]

I always put the neck (heavy) end next to the bit and let the taper go towards the tailing end sometimes with an extra ply on the end in the form of a popper

[Ken Nelson]

I use the 16+oz HO Harness that Panhandle Leather sells.   It has a lot of body, is long and clean.  I put the butt end on the bridle end as it has less stretch, in my opinion,.  they are heavy and when they get broke in, have a really good feel and last forever if you don't try to halter break broncs with them.  Some people put the neck end on the bit and I wouldn't have a problem with that but the guy that I build for wants them the other way.  In Eastern NM, I am hearing a lot of the cowboys are going to the two layered and stitched Latigo reins and claim they have a wonderful feel to them.  Never used them myself but I would make them if someone wanted me to. Reins need to "break in"  and if they feel just right when they are new, there is a chance they will seem like a rag when they do get broke in.  All a matter of personal preference.  

[bruce johnson]

I made a bunch of doubled latigo reins, mostly split reins but a few single reins too.  At the time a lot of harness reins were a bulk production deal and enough imports I didn't want to compete with. Most I sold direct and some through resellers. I got 7/8 sides and doubled them up. I kept them paired thoughout even though maybe not necessary. I added a third piece sandwiched at the bottom as a popper and for weight. The butt of the hide was my bit end. After I edged them off I did a 5 second or so dip in olive oil.  Olive oil added a little weight and "life", and is not greasy feeling.  I hung them for a day to soak up and then I worked them back and forth around a 2" panel pipe to break them in. Pretty much after that they felt the same forever. I made the loops out of heavy skirting I oiled and greased or harness. They went to weekend riders, working cowboys, trainers, and show arenas.

[NWBicketLeatherCollc]

On 12/19/2019 at 3:16 PM, bruce johnson said:

I made a bunch of doubled latigo reins, mostly split reins but a few single reins too.  At the time a lot of harness reins were a bulk production deal and enough imports I didn't want to compete with. Most I sold direct and some through resellers. I got 7/8 sides and doubled them up. I kept them paired thoughout even though maybe not necessary. I added a third piece sandwiched at the bottom as a popper and for weight. The butt of the hide was my bit end. After I edged them off I did a 5 second or so dip in olive oil.  Olive oil added a little weight and "life", and is not greasy feeling.  I hung them for a day to soak up and then I worked them back and forth around a 2" panel pipe to break them in. Pretty much after that they felt the same forever. I made the loops out of heavy skirting I oiled and greased or harness. They went to weekend riders, working cowboys, trainers, and show arenas.

Thanks Bruce- Question for you. Did you stitch them together? I'd be slightly concerned they would come apart over time. If so did you stitch then dip or did you dip then stitch? Maybe after a day they won't be so oily to run through my machine and stitch?!?

[bruce johnson]

Sorry to be late replying, this notification just popped up on my feed. I stitched them first, then dipped. It is hard to get latigo to bond well with just glue anyway, and occasionally would have a rein separate even while sewing.