Saddle stitching

[ewayne53]

What is the recommended distance from the edge for saddle stitching. I normally use a stitching groove to stitch in. But I’ve noticed especially on thinner leather even double layers that when I drive in my stitching tools it bulges the leather at 1/8”. I can move in to 3/16” but I didn’t like the look. 
 

thanks in advance for your input.  

[Handstitched]

G'Day, I generally go in approx 4 to 5mm , (what ever that is in inches? ) 

I also use a stitch groover, and spacing wheel ,  makes it look neat. 

HS 

[garypl]

Why don’t you put your stitch line in 3/16” and after stitching trim or sand it back to 1/8”?

Gary

[zuludog]

I've always understood that the distance of stitching from the edge should be the same as the thickness of the leather. Thus, for example, if you're making a sheath from 3mm leather, that is made up from a front, a back, and a welt = 3 + 3 + 3 = 9mm, but the distance is 3mm

This becomes more difficult as thinner leather is used, so in practice you might have to settle for something a bit wider if you're using, say, 1mm leather

Stitching chisels might distort the line as you have described, and I can think of a couple of ways round this; or use them both in combination -

As mentioned, make a wide margin then cut it back when the stitching is finished

Don't knock the chisels all the way through, just use them by hand to make faint pricks marks, then make the actual holes with a narrow awl, such as an Osborne #41 or #42

Incidentally, I no longer use a stitch groover, I just mark the line of the stitching with dividers

[ewayne53]

Thanks for your input.
 

Happy Thanksgiving and God bless.

Edited November 28, 2019 by ewayne53

[Dwight]

On the contrary, . . . until you have done a lot of "experimenting" and practicing on scrap leather, . . . knock those chisels thru, . . . and don't bat an eye doing it.  

There is a lot of art required and finesse in saddle stitching if you expect both side to look as well.  That means holding the awl at such an angle that it goes perfectly 90 degrees into the leather and comes out on the other side equally spaced each time you do a stitch.  The stitching chisels relieve you of a lot of that aggravation.

Secondly, . . . using the dividers looks good on TV, . . . but IMHO does nothing more than mark where it should be stitched.  Using a groover allows the stitch to lay down much flatter, . . . removing the chance for rubbing abrasion on the stitch.  I would never send out a holster or belt that did not have the stitches put down in a groove.  I hate repairing something I could have fixed right in the first place.

May God bless,

Dwight

[ewayne53]

Even though I've been doing leather work for 2 years I still consider myself a novice. Time and money hasn't allowed me the experience and projects I would like to do. I do agree with using using a stitching groover. A trick I have found is use the groover on both sides of the project. Then only put the chisels in half way or less on both sides making sure to align them. I then take an awl and easily push through the thin layer of leather left guiding it into the correct slot on the back side. It is a little more work but so far has proven to be a better outcome than trying to go through both pieces of leather and hit the groove on the back side. Or trying to add the groove on the back side after using the chisel. The stitches may or may not be perfectly aligned on both sides but it takes close examination to tell.

Thanks and God bless.

[Halitech]

2 hours ago, ewayne53 said:

Even though I've been doing leather work for 2 years I still consider myself a novice. Time and money hasn't allowed me the experience and projects I would like to do. I do agree with using using a stitching groover. A trick I have found is use the groover on both sides of the project. Then only put the chisels in half way or less on both sides making sure to align them. I then take an awl and easily push through the thin layer of leather left guiding it into the correct slot on the back side. It is a little more work but so far has proven to be a better outcome than trying to go through both pieces of leather and hit the groove on the back side. Or trying to add the groove on the back side after using the chisel. The stitches may or may not be perfectly aligned on both sides but it takes close examination to tell.

Thanks and God bless.

only 1 problem with that, unless you have 2 opposite sets of chisels that face opposite directions, the slit will be in opposite directions on each side and that will not give you the angled stitch most people are looking for.

[ewayne53]

I have both straight and angled chisels so using the straight chisels isn't an issue.

Thanks and God bless.

Edited November 29, 2019 by ewayne53

[Halitech]

Are you using diamond point chisels or are you using small lacing chisels?

[ewayne53]

Lacing chisels.