Splitter

[LatigoAmigo]

1 hour ago, sbrownn said:

What happens when you try to split down to 2oz?

I have split veg-tanned and it worked nicely, but had no luck splitting any of the chrome-tanned that I've tried. Probably operator error, but the blade simply would not cut into the material. I tried several adjustments, but could not get the blade to cut into the material. I have many different types of chrome-tanned leather, and did not try it on all of them, but only where I had a certain need, and that leather was heavily oiled with lots of pull-up, a very dense material.

[sbrownn]

On 3/4/2020 at 9:06 AM, LatigoAmigo said:

I have split veg-tanned and it worked nicely, but had no luck splitting any of the chrome-tanned that I've tried. Probably operator error, but the blade simply would not cut into the material. I tried several adjustments, but could not get the blade to cut into the material. I have many different types of chrome-tanned leather, and did not try it on all of them, but only where I had a certain need, and that leather was heavily oiled with lots of pull-up, a very dense material.

What kind of splitter older or new?  The reason I ask is because if it was an older splitter there is a chance the blade wasn't as sharp as it needs to be.  I take my splitter blades out and strop them on a regular basis same as my knives; they need to be just as sharp.

[LatigoAmigo]

1 hour ago, sbrownn said:

What kind of splitter older or new?

It was a brand new C.S. Osborne 86. It could be that I got the adjustments wrong, not sure, but I've seen other posts on this site regarding splitting chrome-tanned leather, and it appears others have the same problem. It cut through veg-tanned very easily.

Edited March 6, 2020 by LatigoAmigo

[sbrownn]

21 hours ago, LatigoAmigo said:

It was a brand new C.S. Osborne 86. It could be that I got the adjustments wrong, not sure, but I've seen other posts on this site regarding splitting chrome-tanned leather, and it appears others have the same problem. It cut through veg-tanned very easily.

I gave up on the hand-pull splitters for anything other than skiving a belt end or something; too hard to pull and too inconsistent.  I do all my splitting, even belt end skiving, with a hand crank feed splitter now and I haven't found anything I can't split just fine.

[LatigoAmigo]

40 minutes ago, sbrownn said:

a hand crank feed splitter now and I haven't found anything I can't split just fine.

Lucky you. Where did you get it? What brand?

[sbrownn]

23 hours ago, LatigoAmigo said:

Lucky you. Where did you get it? What brand?

I have an old Champion that I bought on eBay a few years back.  I had to completely re-surface it's blade but that was all that was really the matter with it.  When I first got it it wouldn't split well at all.  I would rather have a Landis as I like it's thickness setting mechanism better.  Most of the small (6") hand crank splitters are based on the same design so if you find a manual for the Landis you can use it to adjust most all of them.  A couple of weeks ago there was an really nice Landis for sale on Craigslist for $100 but I was too late.  I think Cowboy makes a new version of the Landis but it is kind of expensive.  You have to just be looking but they are out there.

[topazann]

Keep looking for a Landis splitter. They are great and can be found at a reasonable price if you are patient enough.

Edited March 15, 2020 by topazann

[jrny4wrd]

On 1/12/2020 at 6:47 AM, JLSleather said:

NONE of the splitters I've seen for under $500 (granted I haven't seen that many) arrive sharp and ready to cut.  I'm pretty stuck on that.. I know I have to sharpen cutting tools, but it irritates me to no end when I have to sharpen a NEW tool before I can use it.

Unless you're doing lap skives, I don't think splitters are worth the cost.  Granted, if you're one who likes to buy tools so you can say you have 'em, there's that.  Each his own.

But ...

• $500 NOT spent on a bench splitter will get you enough leather already wallet weight to make about 200 wallets. 
• $2500-3k for a "powered" stationery blade splitter costs the same as FIFTEEN SIDES of leather.  And for "billfold" style wallet backs, figure 60-70 of them per side, or roughly 1000 wallet backs.  So the question then, would I be willing to trade roughly 1000 wallet backs to have a "splitter", but still need leather?

Again, there is a place for them. 

• Maybe a benefit to some to reduce inventory - you could just buy ONE weight and split what you need from that.  I'm not that guy, personally... doesn't pay to save that space and a few extra minutes of inventory counting/ordering but then have to split something every time you start a project, provide space to keep and use the splitter, sharpen the splitter (or have it sharpened), .... 
• It is nice to be able to cut a belt strip from say 8 oz leather, then cut the keeper loop from the same leather for the color/texture match, then split to about 4/4.5 oz for function.

 

The hardest time I am having is that I been using Herman Oaks Drum dyed brown that has a gloss to it. I been asking them to split it to 2-3oz but I usually end up with a few square feet of 4 oz, which is far too thick for wallet insides. I find little projects here and there to use the 4 oz but it’s not easy when the size of the piece is inconsistent. I am not a fan of the glazed pig skin, as it makes my wallets look cheap. What type of 2oz vegetable tanned leather are people using for the insides? It seems most are using kid skin or some other plastic like stuff. 

[BigSiouxSaddlery]

Kangaroo is thin and tough.  Some people use that for wallet interiors.