Looking for long stitch cylinder arms machine

[Bert51]

Tony, from memory the Adler 205 is the same as my 105 and it has an 8mm stitch in both directions.

If you want anything longer you need to settle for a Singer 132K6, my does well over 10mm, but I have only sewn at 10mm, (through ply wood).

Bert.

[TonyGreen3455]

Just now has spoken to my local dealer - for my requirements he suggested Global 9205. Heavyweight machine, will it work with thin leather?

  

[Matt S]

1 hour ago, TonyGreen3455 said:

Just now has spoken to my local dealer - for my requirements he suggested Global 9205. Heavyweight machine, will it work with thin leather?

 

Chinese copy of the venerable (and now discontinued) Adler 205 so a lot of the advice for that machine would probably apply. However having never played with a Global machine I can't say anything about the quality. For me a 750SPM top speed would be a problem.

[Bert51]

I would go and see your local dealer and this time while you are talking have a piece of leather or two, like you will be sewing and try it out.

That way you will see what it will do.

Bert.

[kgg]

1 hour ago, Bert51 said:

I would go and see your local dealer and this time while you are talking have a piece of leather or two, like you will be sewing and try it out.

I agree. Since this is going to be a expensive investment go visit dealers with your stuff in hand and sew with the size / type thread you want to use. No one machine is going to do both ends of the sewing / thickness spectrum.

I think the machine that was recommended is going to tear the hell out of the thin stuff since your requirement is only for appearance and not structure. There are videos of the difference between the Juki 8700 vs Juki 1181 vs Juki 1541 vs Juki 1508 using the same material and how the 1541 and 1508 destroy the same thin material. The object is to use the right machine with the right needle system for the job otherwise it is like using a sledge hammer to hammer in a finishing nail.

Also getting the stitch length perfect every time maybe a chore for awhile since it has the reverse and stitch length on the same lever.

Remember buy once, cry once.

 

[TonyGreen3455]

1 hour ago, kgg said:

I agree. Since this is going to be a expensive investment go visit dealers with your stuff in hand and sew with the size / type thread you want to use. No one machine is going to do both ends of the sewing / thickness spectrum.

I think the machine that was recommended is going to tear the hell out of the thin stuff since your requirement is only for appearance and not structure. There are videos of the difference between the Juki 8700 vs Juki 1181 vs Juki 1541 vs Juki 1508 using the same material and how the 1541 and 1508 destroy the same thin material. The object is to use the right machine with the right needle system for the job otherwise it is like using a sledge hammer to hammer in a finishing nail.

Also getting the stitch length perfect every time maybe a chore for awhile since it has the reverse and stitch length on the same lever.

Remember buy once, cry once.

 

I remember it is why I'm here and coming to pro guys with newbie questions, just to prevent long crying )

Juki and their clones AFAIK have a jog dial for length regs and reverse pedal.
Regarding one machine for everything  - you right, different tools for different jobs, but... nowadays who knows what will customer look for tomorrow? Especially if I'm choosing my first machine for leather. 

Anyway, I booked a visit to my local dealer already, just trying to narrow and finally find the name of my dream )

Can anyone help me to recognize this model of Juki? 

Edited February 3, 2020 by TonyGreen3455
adding picture

[JJN]

It looks like a Juki LS-341. Odd that the factory label that has the model and serial numbers is missing. It looks the stitch length dial goes to 9+ mm.

[kgg]

1 hour ago, JJN said:

It looks like a Juki LS-341

I agree but doesn't Juki 341:

1. usually have the nameplate rivet to the machine which means two holes should be present where the weird square intention is.

2. doesn't look like the normal Juki latch connecting the base to the sewing machine

3. the metal seems to be cut back further towards the main body on the bottom of the cylinder.

I would investigate further as if I remember someone in France had a problem with a Pfaff branded machine that wasn't.

kgg