Machine decision help

[guntechholsters]

Looking for some advice. I've actually been a member for a long time lost my sign-in information had to start a new account and then I just managed to sign back in for the first time in several months.

Here's my dilemma, I'm currently running a ferdco 440r, I've been into leather work for several years now but it's always revolved around holsters and carry belts. I recently started to get into wallets and purses and clutches, fancier stuff LOL. I'm going to be replacing my ferdco with a cowboy 3200. I figure it will do my heavy work such as holsters and carry belts but I can also swap out the thread and needle and work on my other projects mentioned above.

With the wallets and purses and clutches and even dress belts I was wondering if a 138 thread would be more appropriate then 207? When I assemble my wallets I was thinking on the insides I could go with it and even lighter thread such as a 90 then do my edges using 138.

For showing the insides with a 90 weight thread I was thinking about picking up another machine something economical as well, any recommendations on that would be greatly appreciated I was thinking something like a cheap singer walking foot?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated thank you very much.

[Northmount]

@guntechholsters Moved your post to Leather Sewing Machines.  More likely to get help here.

Tom

 

[guntechholsters]

Thank you

[Kcstott]

Wallet work can be done with 136 and it's not to heavy looking. I would not go smaller than about a 96 though. I just finished a small hand bag that I used 138 on and the thread and stitch looks perfectly sized for the effect I was going for. It would not be out of place on a wallet. When I get around to doing some wallet and passport covers I'll be sewing them with 138 

[Wizcrafts]

I use #69 bonded nylon on wallet interiors and #92 when attaching the thin leather back to the interior. My wallets are usually well under 8 ounces thick along the sides and bottom. If I make a wallet that is at or over 8 ounces, I may use #138 thread. Almost any industrial walking foot machine can handle these thread weights. I refer to them as upholstery class machines. Visit any upholstery shop and you may find they have an old walking foot machine for sale after replacing it with a newer one. They run them hard and put them up wet!

[guntechholsters]

5 hours ago, charlie2crows said:

For what its worth the max i have used on any wallet ever is 90 and I try to use 69. Smaller/medium bags 90 double stitched.

Depends on a few things - design, material and construction expertise being but a few considerations.

I do it all on three machines that are perfect - all drop shipped from the orient as some racist on here described them.

All cost about 25% of the prices you would pay from 'dealers'

 

May I inquire as to what machines you run?

1 hour ago, Wizcrafts said:

I use #69 bonded nylon on wallet interiors and #92 when attaching the thin leather back to the interior. My wallets are usually well under 8 ounces thick along the sides and bottom. If I make a wallet that is at or over 8 ounces, I may use #138 thread. Almost any industrial walking foot machine can handle these thread weights. I refer to them as upholstery class machines. Visit any upholstery shop and you may find they have an old walking foot machine for sale after replacing it with a newer one. They run them hard and put them up wet!

I am in Omaha Nebraska I don't know if we have any upholstery shops around here but I'm definitely going to start calling today

[guntechholsters]

I'm thinking I should use a cylinder arm because it would make stitching the wallets considerably easier, at least in my mind. Is my thinking correct?

[guntechholsters]

There is a gentleman not too far away from me sewing a Kenmore 6 Stitch machine he called it. He's asking $100 and says that he has sewn almost 3/8 inch leather with it. Does that seem like a good deal, looking at the pictures it looks nice

[JJN]

That is a domestic machine. You do not want a domestic machine. Look for an upholstery class industrial machine. Try craigslist.

[mikesc]

He's asking $100 and says that he has sewn almost 3/8 inch leather with it.

I would not buy a used car..or a used anything from him..Nor change any money , nor take any cheques..etc..
As JJN says..domestic machine..no way has that ever sewn 3/8 of an inch of leather..it would struggle over the double seam on a pair of jeans..motor is 90 or 100 watts..2 pieces of 1mm lambskin it could put the needle through, but they would slide around..

You need a triple feed industrial machine ..

and not a sailright, or any of the similar things..They are for "yachties" ( who have limited space onboard, and don't have the money to pay for pro sail or cushion repairs on the small stuff ) and who sew occasional two layers of canvas and maybe some 1mm thin leather and who don't much mind that the result looks pretty rough..After all who is going to climb up the mast , or turn over the deck cushions to look at the stitches. :)

IIWY..I'd look for second hand triple feed industrial..or Buy triple feed industrial from a dealer..or do what charlie2crows did and buy direct from China ( IME you can trust a Chinese seller** direct as much ( if not more ) than you can trust a seller of a second hand machine over in the next town , or Ebay, or the "dealers" in France* ..and you'll save a ton of money by buying direct ) ..but ..given that you might have to do some "setting up" when buying direct..

*The majority of dealers ( USA based ones at least ) on this board offer waaay more help and after-sales than French ones do..and are cheaper than French ones.
**I've ( as yet.. but will be looking to do so in 2021 ) not bought sewing machines direct from China..but have bought very many other items ( servo motors, laser engravers, textile items, the latter by the container load, multiple times.. etc and other items ) from Chinese sellers..I have yet to be disappointed.. Just make sure that if you are buying leather items that you specify "animal skin leather"..if not you may get PU ( plastic/ polyurethane ) "leather" ..Which is what many "western importers" order ( knowing full well that they are buying plastic ) and then sell on as "genuine leather"..as the Chinese say..the "westerners" knowingly order "fake" at wholesale..and then blame us when their customers complain.

Edited February 19, 2020 by mikesc