LiftPig Report post Posted February 18, 2020 I've seen some patterns that call specifically for punching 1-1.5mm holes for stitching as opposed to using pricking irons and/or an awl. Is there an advantage to this or is it a personal preference thing? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hardrada Report post Posted February 19, 2020 Examples? I think it's mostly a looks thing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LiftPig Report post Posted February 19, 2020 24 minutes ago, Hardrada said: Examples? I think it's mostly a looks thing. this designer calls for punches. Anything I’ve seen made my Makers Leather Supply that’s hand sewn uses irons and awls. *I am not affiliated nor endorse Dieselpunk or Makers. Just using examples. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hardrada Report post Posted February 19, 2020 (edited) Ah-hah! Just the maker I was thinking of when you mentioned round holes. I have no clue why he prefers round holes—whether it's easier stitching or personal style. Personally, I don't care for big holes and thick thread. If that's the style you wanna go for, or you want/need to use his templates, then I guess you'll need to get yourself some round punches. Do note that you're not forced to, though. You can still use his template and modify it a bit to use diamond punches and thinner thread. It's really all about what YOU want to achieve. This is what I use as my guideline for stitching: https://www.ianatkinson.net/leather/leatherguide.htm#thread Edited February 19, 2020 by Hardrada Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GatoGordo Report post Posted February 19, 2020 If you check, you will find a video he made where he discusses various stitching methods and states that he likes the punched holes and straight stitch. I do not, but I still have made a few of his patterns. I just use a diamond punch and saddle stitch. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hardrada Report post Posted February 19, 2020 I have also seen that he uses masking tape to keep the pattern in place over the leather. When I tried that, however, I damaged the scrap of leather I tried it on. So, be careful with that procedure too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
billybopp Report post Posted February 19, 2020 I'm not a big fan of punching holes, but it can be part of the aesthetic for a project. Punching holes removes a bit of leather and at least in theory weakens it more than would a stitching iron or an awl does - that may not be a factor for a lot of things, tho. Holes also pretty much force you into a thicker thread - which may be fine if that's the look you want. Holes generally make it harder to get a good looking line of stitches, particularly if you are looking for that slanted stitch look. Most kits come with pre-punched holes to make the assembly process easier for their target audience - the beginner. That is probably part of the reason why patterns go that route too - it's easier to put in an exact number of holes to get parts to line up. While there's nothing you can do with a kit unless you want to re-cut all parts, there is nothing with a pattern to prevent you from using whatever method you like to sew (as pointed out above). - Bill Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tugadude Report post Posted February 19, 2020 13 hours ago, LiftPig said: I've seen some patterns that call specifically for punching 1-1.5mm holes for stitching as opposed to using pricking irons and/or an awl. Is there an advantage to this or is it a personal preference thing? LiftPig, I suggested this "sticky" portion of the forum exactly for questions such as this. Nigel Armitage has a lot to say about the subject, but to find out the answer to your specific question you have to watch several videos so I'll give you what my opinion is. But I encourage you to watch his saddle stitching tutorials. They are fun to watch and you're going to learn how to do a proper saddle stitch in no time. If you are already proficient, you'll still pick up some tips. Here is the link, then I'll give my thoughts. So pre-punched holes, in my opinion are a huge asset to stitching and completing a project, but the type of hole is what makes all the difference. In my opinion, the kits you purchase and some templates, use round holes because they are easier for them to fabricate. Quick and easy. Unfortunately, the resulting stitching they contribute to is often lacking. Mostly because the holes are too big, the thread is too small and/or the practitioner doesn't understand needle priority because they haven't learned how to saddle stitch. The mechanics matter. The beauty of stitching chisels, to me, is that they create the "pre-punched" holes, but they do so in a configuration that lends itself to saddle stitching. In other words, most of them aren't round, but shaped more like a traditional saddler's awl and as such, produce a stitch that can appear as though it was done entirely with an awl. And it allows for beginners and intermediates to achieve a level of quality they otherwise could not. Not without months or even years of practice. The other thing to keep in mind, and Nigel Armitage talks about this in his post, is that what a lot of us do here is not saddles and tack, but rather small items such as wallets and bags. They don't demand the same attention to stitching because they don't weigh a ton and run 40 mph. I would never attempt to make a saddle but I'm extremely comfortable making a wallet or a briefcase. I do use an awl on certain portions of projects, but for long, straight runs of stitching it is hard to argue with a chisel. So those are my thoughts. I hope they help a little. In the end, when a project is complete you are supposed to see the stitching, not the holes. I don't see any way possible that you won't see 1.5mm holes after stitching and to me it just looks bad. YMMV. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fredk Report post Posted February 19, 2020 13 hours ago, LiftPig said: I've seen some patterns that call specifically for punching 1-1.5mm holes for stitching as opposed to using pricking irons and/or an awl. Is there an advantage to this or is it a personal preference thing? There is punching and there is punching. I 'punch' holes for stitching, but these are holes which do not remove material. For these holes I usually use this, pliers with teeth; I can work around a project and punch the stitching holes in just a few minutes Punching which removes leather, eg 1 - 1.5mm holes I keep for using with round lace that size Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LiftPig Report post Posted February 19, 2020 I've always used pricking irons and an awl for everything I've made and then done saddle stitching. I like the end result - the stitches have a nice slant to them, the holes close up and are nice and tight, and the end result feels super secure. I just wasn't sure if the punch method was necessary or just something to build a brand around. It seems like its a personal preference. 2 hours ago, fredk said: There is punching and there is punching. I 'punch' holes for stitching, but these are holes which do not remove material. For these holes I usually use this, pliers with teeth; I can work around a project and punch the stitching holes in just a few minutes Punching which removes leather, eg 1 - 1.5mm holes I keep for using with round lace that size Fredk - where did you get that slick set of pliers? One of my biggest challenges is having the time to do leatherwork. The most obvious time is after my kids in bed but then hammering on leather with a kid in the next room is asking for trouble. Thanks all for the replies. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tugadude Report post Posted February 19, 2020 There are a number of sites where you can purchase the tool. Search for diamond stitching pliers or similar. They make straight ones for lacing, but you want diamond-shaped holes. https://www.etsy.com/listing/695007403/4mm-diamond-point-pricking-iron?gpla=1&gao=1&&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_us_a-craft_supplies_and_tools-tools_and_equipment-tools-pliers_tweezers_and_tongs-pliers&utm_custom1=f75226fa-04d6-4812-9ad1-4753905fdd43&utm_content=bing_352012663_1305120451828985_81570054685939_pla-4585169648612732:pla-4585169648612732_c__695007403&msclkid=677532845b381d4ce6df6cc90763e054 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fredk Report post Posted February 19, 2020 Thats a decent set and price Tugadude has linked to. I have a pair with 4 teeth (as pictured) and a set with 2 teeth. I got mine off ebay at under £10 a tool but I think they're up to about £15 a tool Before Christmas I made some note book/diary covers, it took under 5 minutes to go round the edge of each to make the sewing holes. Occasionally I still need an awl, to open up some of the holes. They only come in one size, stitches-per-inch and you can't go more than about 3/4 inch in from the edge. But they are a handy compromise Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hardrada Report post Posted February 19, 2020 goodsjapan.com has them too: https://www.goodsjapan.com/leathercraft-items/pricking-irons-stitch-punches?items=100 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites