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Posted

My first thought was that it's head unit only, as there's no mention in his description about motor, table or speeds etc. From my previous research, when looking for a 441, Typical appear to be a pretty good brand.

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

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It looks good to me and has the large "M" boobin. Only bad is the 10mm leather sewing thickness. For most wallet and purses and not too bulky totes and stuff it would be great. As you don't to my knowledge have a skiver as yet keep in mind that being able to go thicker would be handy sometimes. Do a few measurements on your Monte Carlo and just be sure that it will do what you want. A lot of the time you can design in to keep things pretty trim but that can mean a skiver would be desirable. As @mikesc pointed out I think it would be very similar to the Techsew 2600 and the measurements would be as those below in the picture -f2600.thumb.jpg.83eefdb0c1770c4f86bee10a204c5b0a.jpg

WH.jpgWild Harry - Australian made leather goods
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Posted

Wow! Light at the end of the tunnel. Thanks guys. I was beginning to think I was looking for a unicorn for under £1000. Now I'm getting frightened. I might have to buy the thing before I'm ready for it. :)

Posted (edited)

Just spoke to Konsew. Price inc everything except EPS which will be £30. He's just offered the GLOBAL WF35 Cylinder Arm for the same price. He says it's better built than the Typical and made with better metal and it's not a clone unlike the Typical. What do you thnk guys?

https://konsew.com/industrial-sewing-machine/global-wf35-cylinder-arm-walking-foot-needle-feed

Edited by toxo
Posted

Personally I'd rather have a speed reducer than an EPS..

What is the slowest that the motor will go ?

re Global vs Typical ..possibly easier to get parts for Global, ( seem to be afew more dealers ) although parts should be the same..

Re castings difference ?..Better metal ? in what way ? They look like they are cast from the same mold..Probably in the same factory..Probably using the same metal..unless they have different crucibles( with different alloys in them ) for different badges.

"Don't you know that women are the only works of Art" .. ( Don Henley and "some French painter in a field" )

Posted
1 minute ago, mikesc said:

Personally I'd rather have a speed reducer than an EPS..

What is the slowest that the motor will go ?

re Global vs Typical ..possibly easier to get parts for Global, ( seem to be afew more dealers ) although parts should be the same..

Re castings difference ?..Better metal ? in what way ? They look like they are cast from the same mold..Probably in the same factory..Probably using the same metal..unless they have different crucibles( with different alloys in them ) for different badges.

On my old Durkopp I started off replacing the clutch motor pulley and extending the arm (cheapest way to go)but still was nowhere near what I needed to control the thing. Never used one before remember. Then I replaced the handwheel for a 170mm pulley which was much better (and easier to find whilst looking at the work) but still not slow enough so I installed the Jack servo you mentioned earlier and at last it was good for me speed wise but as slow as I tried to press that pedal it always came as a surprise when the damn thing started. I installed the ENP as an afterthought and it's given me more confidence knowing where that needle is. I'm sure I'll get better at it as time goes on. A bit like a golf swing I guess, you start off trying to concentrate on every aspect until it comes right and then you don't need to think about it at all.

The foot lift is fairly limited on these machines. The Konsew specs say 8mm hand lift 13mm knee lift for the Global. The Global site says 6mm hand lift 13mm knee lift. I can't see that as a problem for me but out of curiosity,  if sewing and it rides up on thicker than 13mm can the presser bar accomodate or will it jam?

Posted (edited)

Lift is what you can get under the foot...doesn't necessarily mean that it can sew through it..I'd say as Brian..sewing capacity on both will be 10mm in veg tan..textiles squash down..machine spec ( lift and sewing thickness ) tends to be talking about textile thickness, even on leather machines ( makes the figures sound better  ;) )..veg tan doesn't squash down much, if at all..I'd not put any leather under there that is thicker than 12 /13mm maximum..Best thing is to go test it ..take some different thickness leather "sandwiches" with you..including some dense leather.

Edited by mikesc

"Don't you know that women are the only works of Art" .. ( Don Henley and "some French painter in a field" )

Posted
4 minutes ago, mikesc said:

Lift is what you can get under the foot...doesn't necessarily mean that it can sew through it..I'd say as Brian.sewing capacity on both will be 10mm in veg tan..textiles squash down..veg tan not so much..I'd not put any leather under there that is thicker than 12 /13mm maximum.

It was a passing thought. Typically a couple of 2-2.4mm. 

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Posted

At a cursory glance those two machines look identical, specs appear to be the same. Sometimes, when a dealer is selling two brands that appear identical and recommends one over another it may simply be because they have a higher profit margin on that item. I guess the best thing is to go and look and try them both. I'll bet they perform the same.

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

Posted

Not sure about its capacity. I would have thought 10mm but in this manual it says 8mm or less on firm stuff. As for the bobbin size I would check with the seller.

https://globalsew.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/WF-35-manual.pdf

WH.jpgWild Harry - Australian made leather goods
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