Handstitching

[tsunkasapa]

Other than a bit of lacing from time to time, I handstitch everything. I see Many different threads, poly, nylon, braided.

I sew everything with 3 or 5 ply flax I get from Crazy Crow, or 3 or 5 ply hemp I get from Rawganique.com. The hemp comes natural and unwaxed, so I can dye to suit.

I'm wondering what others use.

[Vikefan]

I Hand-stitch as well.. and started out with 3 cord I think, I used to dye it to match the project I was working on, back when my hand-stitching didn't turn out as good as it has lately (helped by stitching Chisels).

Now I primarily use Tiger threads in various colors.  I have .06, .08,  and 1.0 mm.  Right now I use mostly .08mm.

[philg9]

I hand stitch most of my work as well. I specialise in heavy horse ( Draught)  harness so am working with the thicker leathers form 4 MM up to 5.5 MM thick oak bark tanned harness leathers. I am in the UK so I do not know what the equivalent is in weight that fellow leather workers in the USA buy leather.

As my work goes on a ton of horse and multiples of in pairs and teams for heavy work, the stitiching is paramount. The thread I use is the traditional twisted and wound and waxed linen thread, the brand is Somac which is produced in the UK. I only use the black thread for harness work in the UK, we do not favour white thread as it does not look right on this work. The grades of thread it is rated at that I use ranges from 18/3,  18/4 and 18/5.    The numbers relate to the strand thickness and how many strands are twisted and wound to make up the thread, so each strand is 18 weight,  so for instance, 18/4  means there is four cords of 18 weight thread. This provides superb hard wearing strength and durability. Tiger thread is something I do not use as it is not condusive for the oak bark tanned leathers as it can have a habit of cutting into the surface of the leather once in use, especially if sewn too tight.   Although the thread on the cops I buy is pre waxed, I still wax the thread before I put my needles on each length. I make up the traditional black wax myself from Swedish pine pitch,  I melt this in an old pan with beeswax and some lump rosin to stop it melting on warm days and make up balls, you pour a blob of the melted pitch and beeswax in a bowl of cold water then instantly pick it out and then you keep kneading and working it hard in your hand to squeeze the water out until you feel it starting to set hard, at ths point you can roll it into a ball say the size of a base ball, then lightly coat it in talcum powder to stop it sticking while it fully sets. There is no better wax for waxing traditional linen or hemp threads.

The only synthetic thread I use is polyester cotton core spun thread that I run in my British United Shoe Machinery No 6 heavy harness machine, in the USA, you call these Pearsons which was the first pattern version iof these machines before they merged with B.U.M.C.  I only use the machine for long runs for making traces and breechng seats, all else is predominantly hand sewn with the saddler lock stitch.

Edited April 1, 2020 by philg9

[zuludog]

I've tried various types of thread; here is my experience -

LINEN

I became interested in leatherwork as I wanted to make knife sheaths, and at about the same time I went on a sheath making course at Identity Leather, which used linen thread

I like linen for the way it feels and handles, and the range of colours. I've tried Crawfords, Coates, and Fil au Chinois, which is good. Recently I've used Yue Fung linen thread, which is excellent, I'd say as good or possibly better than FauC. It is available from Artisan Leather in the UK, or from Rocky Mountain Leather Supply in the USA, sold under their own brand name Twist

SYNTHETIC

I got a starter kit from Tandy, and it included their waxed nylon thread, which is twisted, not braided. I like it; it's easy to use, handles well, and is sold in short lengths of about 22m, which makes it cheap enough to try. Shop around, and besides Tandy you can find it from other suppliers as 0,6mm synthetic thread, and in longer reels; there are only a few colours.  Now that Tandy has closed I get mine from Artisan Leather

Ritza 25/Tiger thread. I know this is popular, and recommended by experts, but I don't like the way it feels/handles; it has a flat cross section, like very narrow tape. It is also expensive to buy into as you can usually only buy large rolls - 0,6mm X 1000m is about £60.

However, Artisan Leather have started selling their own brand of braided synthetic thread which is very similar but cheaper, and as it is available in shorter lengths the initial cost is lower - 0,6mm X 300m is about £6. Not such a wide range of colours though

Yue Fung/Twist synthetic thread is good, and I prefer the way it handles as it has a rounded cross section. It is available from Black Mountains Leather in UK or Rocky Mountains Leather Supply in USA

I also like Amy Roke synthetic thread; that also has a rounded cross section, and I think that if anything, I prefer it to YF/Twist. I get it from Artisan Leather in UK; I don't know of a US Supplier

[Outfitr]

I hand stitch everything also. Haven't really tried too many thread types. Started using tiger thread a while back and haven't had a reason to look otherwise. I love all the great colors. Mostly use 0.8 for the stuff I make.

[Frodo]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Waxed-Lacing-Cord-9-Ply-175yds-Roll-8oz-Cable-Tie-Down-Waxed-Twine-for-145PTAGS/124041692393?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=424874530310&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

i use a 9 ply cord on holsters, belts.  i like the focal point it offers my work

 

[Hardrada]

No machines here, used or wanted. I use Ritza Tiger thread exclusively.

[tsunkasapa]

Thanks all. I'm not a fan of the synthetics, although I have tried nylon. I thought it had too much stretch. The hemp I'm using needs a knot on each end until it's waxed to keep it from unraveling. Once it's waxed that's not an issue.