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Squirrel42

Singer IIIIw155 lower shaft locked tight

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I have been resurrecting a Singer IIIw155 made in 40s from storing it 20 years and I have dropped lube into holes but when I went to turn it I broke the timing belt made of cloth and metal bands and the lower shat with all the lifts and turns the bobbin area is locked up for some reason so I dryed areas and sharpied marked spots to save rotation and wondering should I disassemble the whole shaft and parts to see whats freezing it up?

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Thanks!

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Does it move at all if you rock the shaft back & forth?

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Only when I loosened this screw below the bobbin rack connected to the shaft under. 
then it moves freely. When screw was tightened it moved about the slop of .100 or less but that’s the natural give. 
something in the bobbin case is jammed or rusted maybe. 

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Might just be thread jammed in the hook,put some oil all the way around the outside of the bobbincase & spin the shaft back & forth & it should free up.

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Nope CowboyBob, after throwing a bunch of oil, only the Bobbin case with the lock and pad spins. no visual evidence of thread anywhere.

I guess ill have to take it apart from below spline and disassemble it all hopefully marking the spots to put it back together the same.

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Yeah,alot of times it hides in there,if you leave the hook in there & just take out the 2-little screws on the ring  that hold the bobbincase in it might prevent you from taking the whole hook out.

Edited by CowboyBob

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If you take out the hook remember to remove the case closer or you’ll break it off - been there done that.  Lol

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Got the whole shuttle assembly off by loosening the items on the upper shaft and sliding the shuttle left and it barely cleared the feed dog assy. Sure enough when I gently moved the shuttle with Knipex plyers, I got it to rotate but rough so took it apart and had rust spots. Using aviation small steel brushes on drill motor to clean and get it moving effortlessly! Still marked more spots with electric clean to dry area and sharpie’d but crossing my fingers I get timed machine which I’ll have to get new motor too, maybe a Tacsew model.

 

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1 hour ago, Squirrel42 said:

aviation small steel brushes

What are these brushes?   Would you post a picture of them as well as the knipex plyers?

 

1 hour ago, Squirrel42 said:

Knipex plyers,

Thanks

 

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On 5/5/2020 at 10:53 AM, Scoutmom103 said:

What are these brushes?   Would you post a picture of them as well as the knipex plyers?

 

Thanks

 

Knipex is a brand that is available at Sears and I also have a smaller set too. Only was allowed to be in shadowed in tool cabinet at Helicopter company I worked at, no channel lock brand was allowed and Knipex has flat wrench style adjustable jaws. 

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On 5/5/2020 at 10:53 AM, Scoutmom103 said:

What are these brushes?   Would you post a picture of them as well as the knipex plyers?

 

Thanks

 

It’s coming back together guys and girls!
ordering a motor is next, should I go with, the Tacsew motor?

downloaded the pdf on the the instructions and put on a new timing belt ( whew!) what a tight fit of all parts, had to tap using a socket the bearing housing back in after cleaning on a brush wheel the parts.

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Edited by Squirrel42

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On 5/6/2020 at 1:23 PM, Squirrel42 said:

Knipex is a brand that is available at Sears and I also have a smaller set too. Only was allowed to be in shadowed in tool cabinet at Helicopter company I worked at, no channel lock brand was allowed and Knipex has flat wrench style adjustable jaws. 

FFAA0BFC-3DA5-4C19-8D08-512382D630B2.jpeg

Thank you.  

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Hi Squirrel 42, I've just join because i noticed when i was just looking things up on the net and i don't think anyone noticed or said about your machine?

in your first photo the one pointing at a screw you can move, on the far side of the machine there is a cam-arm that should be connected to this side of the machine, 

this may sound odd but i am going by my new to me 211g166 with reverse = that cam-arm comes from the safety clutch area and over to the reverse mechanism,

but even though you don't have reverse i have all so noticed it on service drawings for the 211g165, so i am not to sure what it actually does,, there was also another screw loose but you have probably put it all together now and up and running,

I've had mine about 2 weeks, it was dry as a bone and all the timings were out because it seemed like it had all ways been rectified by adjusting in one direction until certain parts had nowhere left to go, so when i came along wanting to centre it around a 160 needle all the toy came out this singers cot, i was very worried i had brought a nail, but studying the service manual and parts manual, being careful to read every word like the needle bar adjustment for a bar without the mark and with a mark, i was moving mine with a mark the 2.4mm. are well i can set the lot up now lol,

going back to that cam-arm, i had to slightly "well that's all you can do" move it away from the one next to it when its in place because it would catch it when it travelled,

anyway all the best and hope its sorted, cus mine runs great now and zipped along 9 layers of c-tan ap-leather like butter with a clutch motor i mean fast, i have a 40mm motor pulley when i get a shorter belt, nearly as fast as my old singer 96k i forgot last 2 numbers but industrial, not walking foot but with leather needles, it had no problem with any leather, but even with 3 pulley gears  as slow as possible it was mental with a bigger needle working area, these 11 series are tight in garment cluster room i notice doing some leather on denim jeans, i spouse new clothing is stitched in order and laid flat,  i have a JUST BIKERS leather Belstaff style 3/4 coat with 4 front outside square pockets that i would never get under the 211, I've  got my chinky coBbler for that LOL,

HOW THE F##K ANYONE CAN THINK THE CHINESE SPREAD COV19 ALL OVER THE WORLD IN 2 WEEKS  WHEN YOU HAVE TO WAIT 2 MONTHS FOR A PACK OF NEEDLES?

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Can someone reply with the measurement of the vibrating presser foot bar and the  lifting presser foot Bar max spread during movement at 3 1/2 or 5 stitches per inch? My bar is still not moving hardly regardless of setting 0 or 25 SPI. I took apart the whole bar and shaft assy and cleaned up parts and can move it by hand back n forth, but tighten the screw in front of the safety clutch On the feed dog/essentric shaft. Should I adjust the Feed essentric or loosen it even though no play? Or just order a new assy including the arm next to it?

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Got the walking bar moving as it should but only can get 7 SPI using a piece of cardboard and measuring. The number wheel is all out of whack, bottoms out at 14 but is to be at max stitch length. 
Also maybe timing still off as 138 thread is not working/catching the 135X17 #22 Needle. And feed dog keeps coming loose cause of the two little screws Below, + my feed dog plate is missing the two screws so will have to find where sold. 
love the new Servo motor though and after cleaning, painting and reassembling The treadle n parts, the Action is smooth.

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