leecopp Report post Posted May 6, 2020 After 5 weeks of working from home I was ready for a sewing machine project. Found a local 1922 Singer 16-188 on what could become a nice wood top. Price was $40 so I figured how could I go wrong! The machine was wonderfully dry and dirty , but in a few hours is was up and sewing on my mutt treadle... no problems. I will probably reset the needle bar for 135x17 needles as Bob suggested a couple years ago. The top is about 22" deep, 48" wide and 1.75" inches thick. It got scars .. but hey who doesnt. It is made of 1.75" by 1" (?) wide strips , kinda like a cutting board. It appears as old as the machine and motor. I figure I could do some light sanding and maybe hit it with some poly and it would be a big improvement over the green formica over press board top riding on one of my treadles .. or perhaps even a power stand! I know all of you are better wood workers than me .. I was wondering about the slight separation of the boards at the end.. If I seal it up with poly will that stabilize things ? Do i need to use some CA glue to seep into the cracks? Ignore it as it is non critical". It had been sitting in a workshop for a long time. Thanks for any thoughts. Happy Day Lee Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Silky Report post Posted May 6, 2020 Greetings Lee. That is the same frame as mine. And, a very similar top. I hit mine with a belt sander, then a random orbit, then a coat of minwax pecan stain, then 3 coats of clear poly. I'll bet you the wood is Basswood. 40 bucks huh ... you did good ! I had to pay 50, but it came with a 111-155 I plan to strip my frame and paint it dark charcoal gray hammer finish rustoleum. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cdthayer Report post Posted May 6, 2020 Nice machine Lee. I think you’ll like it if you haven’t tried a 16 before. Get it onto a treadle as soon as you can. I’m still working my 16-41 on a treadle with 16x63-18 needles and Tex90 thread. It’s a workhorse. I’m not too interested in the wood part of a machine, so have no advice there. All I’ve ever done is put a light coat of sewing machine oil on the butcher block tops to help with the dryness of the wood, and then used them as they came to me. CD in Oklahoma Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
leecopp Report post Posted May 6, 2020 Hey Silky, thanks for the pictures. As CD commented I am not a wood guy, usually Restore a Finish is good enough for me, but this one doesnt have much finish to restore. I do have 2 regular 16s and they are nice .. it seems like at least one has the oversized base plate. The 16-188 rides pretty good on my W&W mut treadle. I am tickled that the foot plate has W&W initials in it! I have not decided if the top will go on a treadle or be a Power Stand. 3 unusual things about this machine. 1. Remains of a mashed up lizard under the nose plate.. it was really old and the rig was very dirty. 2. Someone had been using class 66 bobbins in the class 15 style bobbin case. 3. They used a couple bobbin winding pulleys as belt guides. I should have taken a picture, but I was anxious to get out of there (safer at home). I always strip the hardware off the deck and flip it upside down to ride in the van. Easy In, Easy out, stable riding. Happy Day Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ensitmike Report post Posted May 6, 2020 (edited) Hey lee. Great find and fun project. I am a huge advocate of saving as much of the patina as possible. I would thoroughly clean the top, then hit it with a light sanding, and finally a topcoat of your choice. Taking it down to clean wood is nice for some but I think the age and story is what makes these machines so cool. As for the splitting wood (hard to see in photos) that kind of thing drives me crazy. Personally I would get one of my industrial syringes and inject some Titebond and clamp it. I've seen guys use CA as well. The important part is definitely the clamping. Do all this before the sanding and top coat of course. Edited May 6, 2020 by ensitmike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bert51 Report post Posted May 7, 2020 Nice, I love the old machines, if you want the manuals for it, PM me. Bert Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
leecopp Report post Posted May 7, 2020 2 hours ago, ensitmike said: As for the splitting wood (hard to see in photos) that kind of thing drives me crazy. Personally I would get one of my industrial syringes and inject some Titebond and clamp it. I've seen guys use CA as well. The important part is definitely the clamping. Do all this before the sanding and top coat of course. The crack seem to small for a needle and tight bond.. I been watching the guy on youtube doing guitar repairs and he uses tightbond when he can work it in and CA and activator for fine cracks. I have a picture , but my machine picture used up my quota. Happy Days Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
