Is conditioning necessary

[DaveP]

I've made a couple knife sheaths and after reading more some put on a conditioner on. I  haven't.  Is it necessary? I cut the leather,  dyed, assemble, and finish with 50/50 Resolene.  Do I need a conditioner before the Resolene? Or another option?

Thanks again 

[fredk]

I highly recommend a 'conditioner'. All that work has drawn out the natural oils from the leather, They need replaced to keep the leather in continued good condition

I use a mix of bees wax and neatsfoot oil. I rub it on with a cloth. Let it sit awhile, then buff it off. I do it as a final finish, after resolene or other sealing, it gets into the leather ok.

[DaveP]

Thanks... didn't realize you could condition after Resolene.  Currently don't have anything to condition with.  So I haven't totally messed it up!

[Dwight]

Fredk's experience has not been the same as mine.

Resolene is an acrylic finish, . . . in a common word, . . . plastic.

If it is applied correctly, . . . it will totally cover and encapsulate the product.  

Think of putting something in a plastic bottle, . . . sealing it up, . . . then try to get it wet or dry, . . . 

See the problem???

If you want to condition and  have it work 99% of the time like it should, . . . when you cut your blanks, . . . or at the latest when the item is getting ready for dye, . . . give it a light coat of neatsfoot oil with a bristle brush, . . . I only coat the hair side if I can reach it, . . . if not, where I cannot, I'll coat the flesh side, . . . but it is done sparingly because the flesh side will soak up the oil really quick and will take a lot of it.

This will also tend to smooth out the color of especially light browns like Feibings Saddle tan.

May God bless,

Dwight

[DaveP]

So far I've put on one very light coat of the 50/50 mix. 

Looking at neatsfoot...there's a lot of options.  Which one do you use? 

I found Feibings has a 32oz jug for $14.99 ... neatsfoot oil conditioner. 

 

 

Edited May 11, 2020 by DaveP

[fredk]

On here many of us recommend PURE neatsfoot oil, not compound as that has petroleum distillates in it which may be detrimental to the leather

Edited May 11, 2020 by fredk

[DaveP]

Okay sounds good. 

 

Thanks again 

 

[chuck123wapati]

for holsters and sheaths that are going to be used out doors I use a coat of neat's-foot oil then a good quality leather waterproofing  like feibings golden mink oil, sno seal, etc. most are beeswax oil combinations and smear it on then heat it up with a bow dryer to melt it in. 

[lostcaggy]

@fredk what ratio neatsfoot to beeswax do you use? Do you heat the oil before adding beeswax? How do you apply?

Sorry for barrage of questions

[fredk]

1 hour ago, lostcaggy said:

@fredk what ratio neatsfoot to beeswax do you use? Do you heat the oil before adding beeswax? How do you apply?

I have no ratios. I melt beeswax, put in some carnauba wax and add nfo until I get a creamy mixture. I have 2 grades; soft and hard. Hard is used as a final finish. Its put on with a cloth, rubbed in, left for a while then buffed off. The Soft is used when I think the leather needs more nfo feeding and also along stitching as its easier to rub into the stitch holes and thread.

I made several pounds of each mix years ago and even when I'm generous in application I don't use much of it

[Cattledude]

I have used olive oil instead of NFO for about 3 years. I really like the color I get and it holds up pretty good on tack from saddles to breast collars, both see a lot of abuse in my country. I also melt beeswax in it for tack and holsters, just like everyone else, I don't know what the ratio is. 

[MikeF]

So I got confused looking over this and would appreciate more insight if avaiailable...I just finished a project using 50/50 resolene for the first time and first question out of the customer was about care and conditioning...fortunately, it was an email question so I can dance a little, 'cause I don't know and Mr. Wizard ain't around...I usually use TanKote and would unhesitatingly recommend saddle soap and NFO or virgin Olive or lexol or motor oil (just kidding), pretty much whatever conditioner was lying around without much fear ...but I don't know what I'd use  6 months or a year from now on a resolene finished product...I would have like to tell the guys " clean it with some saddle soap and light coat with some Lexol or NFO...but I don't know if that would be a waste of time or not with a resolene finish.  Also thinking maybe just one-step it with some Farnam Glycerin Saddle Soap.

Can anyone help me out?

P.S.  I did pre-condition with NFO, sitting overnight, before applying 50/50 Resolene (3 light coats)

Edited May 16, 2020 by MikeF
Forgot something

[fredk]

Normally, just an application of a shop bought leather conditioner. On the rare occasion the customer has asked me for some of what I use; ie the beeswax/nfo mix. Applied as and when needed, or before, not years later. eg, a shoulder bag used regularly, in dry or wet conditions, should be seen to at least once a month, a saddle, about once a week

If the item gets used in a dirty environment a wash down with soapy water and a rag then an application of a conditioner would be sufficient, if done on a regular basis, before it gets too dirty and/or dried out.

As I said earlier I've had no problem with an item sealed with resolene accepting and benefiting from my beeswax/nfo mix. at any time, even years after