Using a stitching awl

[ClayB]

It just seems to work much better if I pre-punch the holes before I even begin stitching. I can get a nice, fluid rythm going with the needles, so the actual stitching gets done in less time, and the stitches come out nice and even.

But, hey, I'm new at all this sewing and lacing stuff. If someone knows why it's better to do it that way, I'm always changing how I do things in order to improve.

Hi Kate,

I don't sew alot, but when I do, I do the same thing. I will punch the holes before I start sewing. I have tried doing it the right way many times, but either I am just not coordinated enough or I just need more practice. On small items, I use an awl. On larger items. I sometime use my Boss sewing machine without any thread in it. It would be nice to just sew with the Boss, but I haven't figured out how to get it set right to sew and I get frustrated so for now it is an expensive hole punch. Makes nice even holes )

Someday maybe I will learn to do it the right way.

Clay

[cjbleather]

abn, I am like Clay. I don't do enough to follow Stohlman's technique. I do try now and then just for fun. However, I mostly punching in advance my slits with a very sharp awl in advance. The plus for doing these in advance, is that you don't have to put down your awl with every stitch and take the chance of knocking it off the desk or table. I do use a square of balsa on the other side of the piece when I punch my slits. This prevents the leather piece from bending and keeps the slits on the back side nice and straight. Plus they stay in the channel if you use one. Carl

[CitizenKate]

I do use a square of balsa on the other side of the piece when I punch my slits. This prevents the leather piece from bending and keeps the slits on the back side nice and straight. Plus they stay in the channel if you use one. Carl

Yeah, exactly. When I was trying to punch the holes with an awl as I stitched, the leather was getting all bent and pulled out of shape around the edges, the holes were unevenly spaced (even though they were pre-marked with a multi-pronged thonging chisel) and I could never get the awl to go in at exactly the same angle every time, so it was a mess when it was over. And yes, I do make sure the seam I am stitching is positioned just barely above the top edge of the jaws of the stitching pony.

I usually have some scrap foam core sitting around which, if you lay the leather on it while you're punching the holes, supports the leather, keeping it flat as you punch, while allowing the awl to easily continue on through the leather. Doing it this way also makes it easier to keep the holes evenly spaced and turned at the same angle.

Another thing I wonder is, why not just drive the thonging chisel all the way through the leather and "joost be dun widit"?

Edited October 20, 2006 by CitizenKate

[CitizenKate]

I decided to revive this thread, after doing some experimenting, I discovered the answer to my own question. The reason(s) you don't want to drive the thonging chisel all the way through the leather is that

1) the thonging chisel creates a bit too large of a hole, causing the thread to be somewhat loose in the hole. It seems better to have a tight fit through the hole for the thread, especially where you backstitch, to reduce the chance of having it come out at the ends, or in the middle should the thread become worn through.

2) the stitching awl (if it's kept sharp) slices through the leather, but the thonging chisel, if you drive it all the way through, puts little tears in the leather, which weakens it. In the short term, you won't notice much difference, but in the long term, I think the sewn seam would tear loose more easily.

So I will probably still want to pre-punch the holes, but on my future projects, I'll use the sewing awl with a piece of foam core, rather than the thonging chisel.

Kate

I usually have some scrap foam core sitting around which, if you lay the leather on it while you're punching the holes, supports the leather, keeping it flat as you punch, while allowing the awl to easily continue on through the leather. Doing it this way also makes it easier to keep the holes evenly spaced and turned at the same angle.

Another thing I wonder is, why not just drive the thonging chisel all the way through the leather and "joost be dun widit"?

[Billsotx]

I would not use a thonging chisel for sewing with thread, as the holes are too large as you point out; they are more suited for lacing. A small piece of neopreme a.k.a. Pound-o-board (or gum rubber like Line-o-Tex) glued to a piece of soft pine makes a good support backing and protects your fingers. "The Art of Hand Sewing" is the bible when it comes to hand stitching, however, I do not gouge sewing channels if I'm sewing grain side out because that removes the strongest of the fiber. Instead of cutting a groove I press a groove into the grain side with a modified dental pick. The groove only needs to be deep enough to let the thread lie below the surface of the leather. If I'm making a long straight groove I use the TLF nylon bone folder to press in that groove, but the modified dental pick makes for easy cornering. A creaser will also work if you happen to have one.

Remember to punch your awl holes diagonal to your stitch line as Stolhman illustrates. That really sets off your work. Large thong holes or round holes are unsightly and shout "KIT!" ... nothing wrong with kits, but I don't want what I cut and built mistaken for a kit.

Edited January 19, 2007 by Billsotx

[Regis]

It sounds like none of you use punches to make holes for sewing. I saw that the fancy hand punch with rotary sizes (that I bought) made all too big holes. Therefore, I bought a single hand "squeze" punch that is size zero (I believe). I am a bit concerned about how to keep it sharp though. Part of the problem with learning online is not knowing what actually looks right. I thought that if there was no holes visable, then it was done by sewing machine. I thought awls were for places you could not reach with punch.

This will make my next project look somewhat better (now that I'm beginning to learn what "better" is). I do not want kit look. Good or bad, it is my own from design to final use (even if some are hid in closet).

Regis

[CitizenKate]

I would not use a thonging chisel for sewing with thread, as the holes are too large as you point out; they are more suited for lacing.

I will still use a diamond hole thonging chisel to mark where the holes will go for saddle stiching. The holes are exactly the same distance apart as with an overstitch wheel, but I like the chisel better because it's a lot easier to control. I also like the way it marks a perfect angle for the awl to go through.

"The Art of Hand Sewing" is the bible when it comes to hand stitching, however, I do not gouge sewing channels if I'm sewing grain side out because that removes the strongest of the fiber. Instead of cutting a groove I press a groove into the grain side with a modified dental pick. The groove only needs to be deep enough to let the thread lie below the surface of the leather. If I'm making a long straight groove I use the TLF nylon bone folder to press in that groove, but the modified dental pick makes for easy cornering. A creaser will also work if you happen to have one.

Same here, I noticed that the leather was noticably weaker where I cut a stitching groove - I could almost tear it with my bare hands. So I also decided it was better to just make a pressed groove, rather than a cut groove.

It's an excellent book on stitching, alright... but a few of us have been debating the value of learning to punch the stitching holes while you're also holding two needles. Maybe it's faster, but for me it was actually faster in the long run to punch the holes before even picking up the needles, because of how much faster and smoother the stitching process was.

Remember to punch your awl holes diagonal to your stitch line as Stolhman illustrates. That really sets off your work. Large thong holes or round holes are unsightly and shout "KIT!" ... nothing wrong with kits, but I don't want what I cut and built mistaken for a kit.

I hear that! (See the thread on the biker wallet... that was quite a journey for me.)

Edited January 20, 2007 by CitizenKate

[ClayB]

I bought those chisels for punching stitching holes a few years ago. Why? Because they make them, so I must need them, Right? Well, I have never used them yet. But I like the idea of marking the slant of holes with them. I always have trouble keeping the slant the same. Probably goes back to just not doing enough hand stitching to get good at it. I also bought one of those punches that holds four small round tubes in a row. Probably was made so that you could get the same sort of holes that come in the leather pieces in kits. Not sure why you would want them, but if you did, this might be the tool (if it worked good) I did try using that and got the same results as Kate mentioned. Tears the leather between the holes.

I think this is an interesting thread for those of us that aren't great hand sewers yet. Someday we all should get together and take a class from Verlane.

Clay

[Johanna]

Thonging chisels have their uses- like doing the holes for a buckstitched belt. Punching out laced saddlebags. Mexican braiding and appliqué work done with lace. In fact, I was thinking about this, and I mostly use chisels where lace is involved, not for sewing with thread.

For lacing or hand sewing with thread, where two pieces must be joined together, I fasten everything tightly (twist ties, glue, tacks, whatever) and punch the holes with a tiny sharp awl. I always make both holes at the same time- I do not try to match two pieces of leather with holes punched separately, ever. I try to make the holes an bit smaller than the lace or thread. Then I pick up two needles and sew it. I keep my needles, both Life-Eyes and glovers needles, sharp by stropping them, and never use harness needles-too big and blunt. I never let go of the needle(s), same as lacing. That's the way I was taught, right or wrong, it's what I know how to do. I admire people who can sew 12 stitches an inch with an awl in the palm of their hand, but I'm not one of them. (Gesa thinks that's child's play!) I backstitch to finish off, and I pound both thread and lace with the back of my mallet when I'm done. I was told that "set" the stitches. Sometimes it seems like it does, sometimes I feel like I'm observing an old man's superstition. For hand sewing thread with thick (above 8/9 oz.) I don't use an awl. I do use a single or double punch, smaller than a chisel. I don't think Tandy sells them, I think my set is wood carving tools, but I could be wrong.

For you old timers out there, disregard: Tandy sells a "thonging chisel" and that is a one- two-four-eight toothed heavy handled tool you whack with your mallet. Some people know them as "gang punches". Same thing. You have to sharpen and strop these things or you will hurt your elbow. They aren't sold sharp, and without an edge, you work too hard to drive them through 8/9 oz. leather. A few minutes on a stone and occasional stropping will pay off.

Rotary punches are pretty useless because they limit how far into the work you can go. If you need to make round holes for rivets and snaps Tandy sells an inexpensive Mini Punch set. When the screw on tubes get dull, just get new ones. When you can justify it, invest in a better quality set that you can sharpen yourself, if you want to. If you want to sew pretty, buy the best awls you can afford.

Johanna

[ClayB]

Thonging chisels have their uses- like doing the holes for a buckstitched belt. Punching out laced saddlebags. Mexican braiding and appliqué work done with lace. In fact, I was thinking about this, and I mostly use chisels where lace is involved, not for sewing with thread.

I am not sure we are all on the page here when we are talking about thonging punches. The sewing punches are different than the lacing punches. The sewing punches punch a diamond shaped hole, just like an awl, where the lacing punches make a straight slit, or a slanted slit depending on the style of the punch. I just took my sewing punches out and played with them a little. They put the holes exactly the same as a Tandy #6 overstitch wheel. They punch a hole that is a little large for most sewing thread in my opinion. I did try them to just mark holes like Kate was saying, and it seemed to make it easier for me to then come back and use the awl and actually push the hole through the leather at the right slant. It would be a lot slower to mark them with the punch than with an overstitch wheel. I guess you would have to weigh that against having the proper slant marked. I think it's a useful tip and I something I might use until I learn to do the sewing like Al taught in his book (if I ever do).

Clay