Elk Hide Gun Sheath

[RockyAussie]

51 minutes ago, garypl said:

Thanks Brian, I think the size you have will be fine.  I normally don’t like to print larger than @220mm in any direction to allow room for brim/skirt around the outside.   The case I just made had fringe from 6” out to 12” - I cut the leather at an angle and then start cutting the fringe.  Like Dikman suggested, maybe cut and then move the template further down to continue for longer fringe?  I think this might be difficult to do and keep cuts aligned with the slots in the template, but worth a try.

Worst case, I go back to using my straightedge, which really doesn’t take that long once you get going.

Gary

Hi Gary, I will send them both through to you in a few minutes.I did the 6mm one last night and tested it this morning successfully. I forgot to say that I used a solid print but I think around 25% with around 1.1mm walls would work well. your slicer will question 1.1 not being relevant to the nozzle size, but it will work better. The length of my jig in the Y direction is 180mm so if in the scale section you increase this to 220 you would get around 8" length cuts. If that is difficult I can do it in a few minutes if you want.

Regards Brian

[RockyAussie]

Here a some pics of the 6mm jig as against the 4.5mm jig. My finger is showing where the change in width is-

[garypl]

2 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

Hi Gary, I will send them both through to you in a few minutes.I did the 6mm one last night and tested it this morning successfully. I forgot to say that I used a solid print but I think around 25% with around 1.1mm walls would work well. your slicer will question 1.1 not being relevant to the nozzle size, but it will work better. The length of my jig in the Y direction is 180mm so if in the scale section you increase this to 220 you would get around 8" length cuts. If that is difficult I can do it in a few minutes if you want.

Regards Brian

Thanks Brian - I will try the settings you suggested.  I’ll let you know how it works out and if I have any questions.  I appreciate your help!

Gary

[dikman]

I think some of this should have been put in the 3D printing section?

[RockyAussie]

15 hours ago, dikman said:

I think some of this should have been put in the 3D printing section?

Agreed. I will do a separate post on it in that section. I haven't got much fringe work products to show as yet though. Probably the one with the most would be this one on my web site - https://wildharry.com.au/collections/tote-bags/products/emily-medium-leather-tote-bag-burnt-orange-with-taupe-fringing

Now it can be done a lot easier with these guides we should be doing a fair bit more of it.

 

[garypl]

That is a cool looking bag!

[dikman]

That's a lot of fringing!

[Bert51]

Now I see why you need the fringing guide.

I like the colours.

Bert.

[RockyAussie]

On 5/29/2020 at 9:59 AM, garypl said:

That is a cool looking bag!

Thanks Gary. I only designed the basic bag, the wife is mostly responsible for what she does with ornamentations and so on.

Forgot to mention I used .2mm layers on the print.

18 hours ago, dikman said:

That's a lot of fringing!

And more than twice as much leather to make

17 hours ago, Bert51 said:

Now I see why you need the fringing guide.

I like the colours.

Bert.

Yeah ...looks like I gotta print a whole heap of new widths and lengths of them now. On the plus side I got the OK top get a bigger printer now.

I've been wanting to make a mould for a fancy handbag design for sometime and this should help to make it a reality at last I think. 330x330x400mm build area.

[Bert51]

Can you upgrade just the base or do you need to upgrade to a new printer?

Bert.

 

[RockyAussie]

40 minutes ago, Bert51 said:

Can you upgrade just the base or do you need to upgrade to a new printer?

Bert.

 

I could go a to a 200x300 base with my current one but I am looking at getting a bigger one which does not have to have the extra weight of the base plate moving around other than just downward as it prints the filament. The top extruder then does all of the back and forward movement (X and Y movements). This is also a good move as the printed job does not have to move around with the base plate in those often very quick changing directions. It should be able to print jobs a fair bit quicker because of this as well.Some jobs like the frill guides above can take me 8 hours each to print and I have had some jobs take a way lot longer than that.

 

[Bert51]

I realise capital is a problem today, but if you can justify it then you will save time and thus money with the larger printer.

I guess it would come from China, I am having heeps of problems with items posted from China at the moment, how long before your looking at upgrading?

Bert. (being nosy)

[garypl]

On 5/29/2020 at 11:19 PM, RockyAussie said:

Thanks Gary. I only designed the basic bag, the wife is mostly responsible for what she does with ornamentations and so on.

Forgot to mention I used .2mm layers on the print.

And more than twice as much leather to make

Yeah ...looks like I gotta print a whole heap of new widths and lengths of them now. On the plus side I got the OK top get a bigger printer now.

I've been wanting to make a mould for a fancy handbag design for sometime and this should help to make it a reality at last I think. 330x330x400mm build area.

Hey Brian - what model new printer are you going to buy?

I have to buy some more PLA to print guides - spools are getting empty!

I keep trying new leather for rifle cases - this is some 2 oz pull up leather - worked well, but once I turned it inside out I don’t like the fringe - flesh side is lighter, so I am rubbing leather balm into the flesh side to darken it up.  Lesson learned - next time I will darken the flesh side before I cut the fringe - much easier than doing each strand!

Gary

[RockyAussie]

3 hours ago, garypl said:

Hey Brian - what model new printer are you going to buy?

I am looking hard at a Tronxy X5SA PRO this years model. They are a pretty cheap (about $700au)kit but have a lot of bad reviews as well. I expect it will chew up a couple of extra dollars to get it all running well.To get a name brand one that size and with good reviews is like $12,000+ so I wont be going that way. My current prusa i3 was pretty shaky to start with but after a few stabilising bars were added she does a better job than what most of these reviewers call a GOOD print and faster as well.

 

17 hours ago, Bert51 said:

I guess it would come from China, I am having heeps of problems with items posted from China at the moment, how long before your looking at upgrading?

Made in China but I am looking at getting one out of Sydney at the moment. I expect to order it shortly but some of the upgrade corner supports and so on may hold it up a bit as I normally order that stuff out of China. I may have to pay some extra to get some stuff locally this time.

I will do a post on it when I get it and let you know all of the tweaks and upgrades as I do them. Fingers crossed it will not be a disaster. A big platform and volume sounds good but if it takes tooo long to print then it will be a failure. I am wanting it to go at least 80mm a second and do a good job for the majority of my stuff. 

[Bert51]

Thanks Brian, sorry for hi-jacking this thread.

Bert.

[garypl]

Brian - look forward to seeing pics when you get your new printer setup!

Gary

[RockyAussie]

9 minutes ago, garypl said:

Brian - look forward to seeing pics when you get your new printer setup!

Gary

Just ordered yesterday Gary and eta is a couple of weeks. I have still to find a few of the other modification pieces locally as yet so hopefully that wont be too long in the getting. .

[dikman]

Sounds like a subject for a new thread.