Sharpening a diamond awl - questions

[Alaisiagae]

I'm going to attempt to sharpen my awl blade, following the video by Niel Armitage on how to sharpen a saddler's awl. His process is similar to JHLeather's video. I'm still a little fuzzy on what exactly my sandpaper is supposed to do. Am I sharpening the edges of the awl blade and/or am I reducing the "shoulder" of the blade? Any tips or suggestions? It's a cheapie Craftool diamond awl that I'm working with.

[YinTx]

I think if you ask 6 people you might get 6 answers.  I have a pile of awls, and they all have different profiles, and I use the one that gives me the stitch I need on the project I happen to be working on at the time.

In general, I would consider dulling the upper sections of the blade, maintain some bulk in the upper section to open the hole up for your needle and thread without cutting a bigger hole.  If it is only stretching the leather hole open, then the hole will close back down after you have done your stitch if you don't pull too much tension.  If the sides are sharp, they will cut the hole open, and it will not close down.  And on the diamond shape, you don't want 4 cuts.

The shape of the point is personal preference.  I have one that is a squared tip, one that is a short point, and some that are very long drawn out sword points.  Important thing is to make sure the sides are equal (at least opposing sides) so you don't cut uneven holes.

Equally important to all this is the final finish on the blade.  High polish gives me the best results.

YinTx

[zuludog]

It's reasonably easy, and therefore relatively cheap to make tools for leatherwork like knives, awls, and stitching chisels, but with these you only get a basic or average standard of finish, and traditionally you are expected to do the final finishing, sharpening, and polishing yourself. That's the main reason why top class tools are so expensive, as the maker has done that for you, but that usually involves careful hand finishing, which takes time & money. Sharpening an awl yourself is tedious and fiddly, but it saves money 

Search YT for 'sharpening an awl' and there are several videos, and I think they all follow the same method - pushing the blade back & forth on a fine stone or abrasive paper followed by a strop. An awl blade has has a diamond cross section, and you need to smooth & polish each face so that it slides through the leather easily. The two edges should be fairly sharp and polished, but they don't need to be absolutely razor sharp

Have the blade almost flat to do the faces, and raise the handle slightly to do the tip

The tip of the awl should not be a fine needle point, it should have a very small rounded chisel tip. Snip off the end  1 or 2mm , then regrind, reshape, & polish. Have a careful look at other people's awls on YT to see what it should be like

For polishing I would use 600 then 1000 then 1500 grit wet & dry paper, with a drop or two of water; followed by stropping

If you have a cheap Craftool awl I assume it's from Tandy. If it is -

Stitching Awl 31218 - 01 or Craftool Pro 83020-00 then you're in with a chance

The 4-in-1 awl 3209-00 is notoriously poor quality (that's the polite version) If you have that you could use the round/scratch awl blade as there's not much you can do wrong with those, but don't bother with the diamond awl blades, cut your losses and get something else, ie better

If you have to buy another diamond awl I would consider a Vergez - Blanchard from Rocky Mountain Leather Supply or an Osborne haft with a chuck or collet and a #42 or #43 Osborne blade from Weaver

When you've finished the blade should slide through the leather easily - see how JH Leather does it

Preparing and sharpening an awl like this takes a while, but once you've got it right you should only need to strop occasionally

Edited September 4, 2020 by zuludog

[McCarthy]

I've spent hours trying to sharpen awls the Armitage way and the method I've settled on is to just use a Dremel with a felt buffing wheel with green polishing compound. I like the tip to be completely rounded and very thin. If you have a point it will pierce the leather in the first place it touches, but with a rounded tip it can nestle down into the prick mark and be perfectly centered. It will still go through the leather like butter. The diamond shoulders definitely need to be removed at the tip, and smoothed out as much as possible on the rest of the blade. My ideal awl is not even a diamond shape but flat with parallel edges.

 

[jcuk]

Is this a new awl or one you have already been using, both my go to awls i have not sharpened in a long time no need to last time i had to resharpen one was when i dropped it had to re-profile the the blade about 20 years ago used a small diamond file and strop worked okay for me still does now. Have a newer one that i have had to work on to get it up to speed did the same but with a lot more stropping and polishing works good now don't need it now because both my main awls are fine but it there and ready just in case, nothing fancy cost around £10.

Hope this helps

JCUK 

[Alaisiagae]

@YinTx Thank you for the information about which parts of the blade to focus on. @zuludog I have the 31218-01 awl from Tandy. It pierces pebble grain pretty well, but veg tan is more difficult. JHLeather and Niel A. both file/polish/sharpen each face of the diamond by stroking down the length of the awl blade. I did see one video where the man filed in a side-to-side motion (perpendicular to the blade axis). What kind of tool could nip off the tip of the blade? I don't have a lot of options - my dad has a ton of tools, but I don't know what they are and wouldn't want to damage them. I have 300, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500 grits sandpaper. 

@McCarthy Oh, the illustrations are very helpful, thank you! I don't have pricking irons, but maybe I can use my diamond chisels as pricking irons. 

@jcuk It's not a new awl (I bought it at most 12 months ago), but it has seen only scant use. I tend to use my smallest drive hole punch from a Mini Punch set because I have a lot of thicker nylon braided cord, rather than thin thread that can fit in an awl-made slit. But, since my diamond chisels were giving me some problems, I wanted to see if I could have better results with my awl.

I want to make a small leather coin pouch (something you can put in your pants pocket) for my uncle. I'm not even sure veg tan is the best choice of leather, it's a bit more stiff than I want, so I've also been looking at other types of leather with a slightly firm "hand" but not too firm - I worry that if the leather is too soft, it will be very floppy and annoying to open the front flap (fastened with a glove snap).

[zuludog]

Getting an awl blade right is not straightforward. It's easy enough to get it nearly there, but getting it just right is remarkably fiddly and frustrating

I suggest you have a look at all the YT videos on sharpening an awl. There aren't too many, and you'll start to see how it's done, picking up a bit more information and ideas from each one

These are good -

How to Sharpen leather awl; Dixon Diamond parts 1 & 2 by Leathertoolz

Details made perfection - awl sharpening by Leathercraft Masterclass

How to sharpen a stitching awl by Zestien

In those they have close ups of what a finished blade should look like

Interestingly, in Nigel Armitage's video he leaves the tip fairly pointed. I suppose it's just personal preference

Leathertoolz used end cutters to nip off the tip of the blade, but you could use side cutters or the wire cutting part of the jaws on engineer's pliers

You could also just grind back the tip on a medium to fine stone

But whatever you use, remember that it's a lot easier to remove metal than it is to put it back on again!

You have a good selection of abrasive paper

Yes, you can use stitching chisels as pricking irons. JH Leather uses pricking irons and an awl for most of her sewing, that will show how they're used. If you watch her sewing with an awl it's magic to watch, and a standard for us all - well, certainly me - to aim for

Edited September 5, 2020 by zuludog

[jcuk]

2 hours ago, zuludog said:

Getting an awl blade right is not straightforward. It's easy enough to get it nearly there, but getting it just right is remarkably fiddly and frustrating

I suggest you have a look at all the YT videos on sharpening an awl. There aren't too many, and you'll start to see how it's done, picking up a bit more information and ideas from each one

These are good -

How to Sharpen leather awl; Dixon Diamond parts 1 & 2 by Leathertoolz

Details made perfection - awl sharpening by Leathercraft Masterclass

How to sharpen a stitching awl by Zestien

In those they have close ups of what a finished blade should look like

Interestingly, in Nigel Armitage's video he leaves the tip fairly pointed. I suppose it's just personal preference

Leathertoolz used end cutters to nip off the tip of the blade, but you could use side cutters or the wire cutting part of the jaws on engineer's pliers

You could also just grind back the tip on a medium to fine stone

But whatever you use, remember that it's a lot easier to remove metal than it is to put it back on again!

You have a good selection of abrasive paper

Yes, you can use stitching chisels as pricking irons. JH Leather uses pricking irons and an awl for most of her sewing, that will show how they're used. If you watch her sewing with an awl it's magic to watch, and a standard for us all - well, certainly me - to aim for

Glad to see its not just me that leaves the tip fairly pointed works for me too. 

And have say some things are being over thought at times or so it seems to me. Just learn to use and maintain your tools in a way that works for you if its seems to be working fine why change it. Yes i do know some people are new to this craft but before the age of the net that's what we had to do. A good book to have near your work bench, you may already have it if not its a good investment not just for beginners.

https://tandyleather.world/collections/books-patterns/products/leathercraft-tools-book

Hope this helps

JCUK 

Edited September 5, 2020 by jcuk

[Alaisiagae]

So, I spent the past 1.5 hours working on this, started with 320, then 400, 600, and worked my way up to 2500 grit. I mostly followed Niel A's method. I tried rounding the tip, but then it wouldn't pierce the leather, so I made it pointy again. It goes through thick belly very cleanly, but I'm still struggling on some thin dyed veg tan. Well, at least I got a polished awl blade for my trouble.

[fredk]

Now you have a sharp blade, the problem might be there is too much 'give' in the thin leather. On the opposite side to your awl hold a piece of cork against the leather and push the blade thru the leather into it

[Alaisiagae]

Thanks, @fredk, I'll give that a try. I'm also wondering if the leather is extra tough because it's been dyed and glued and I'm trying to pierce the glued part. Once the numbness in my thumb goes away (hope I didn't just give myself nerve damage from all that sharpening), I'll give it a try. I don't have cork, do you think a thicker piece of leather might work instead?

[fredk]

Use a few thickness of thicker leather, just folded over. If the blade goes thru suddenly it might just go into your finger, so fingers either side of where the hole should be. A cork from a drinks bottle, usually wine, or I use part of a cork sanding-paper block. Available at hardware stores for about $1. Its about 4'' x 2.5'' x 1'' thick. I cut a piece off and use that.

[billybopp]

Just now, fredk said:

Use a few thickness of thicker leather, just folded over. If the blade goes thru suddenly it might just go into your finger, so fingers either side of where the hole should be. A cork from a drinks bottle, usually wine, or I use part of a cork sanding-paper block. Available at hardware stores for about $1. Its about 4'' x 2.5'' x 1'' thick. I cut a piece off and use that.

I do love using a cork from a wine bottle, both as a backer when sewing and also over the awl blade to protect it when not in use.   You get to enjoy the wine then put the cork to good use as well.   Additionally if you drink the wine and quickly enough use the awl and cork you might stab a finger, but you won't care!   Your choice.   

- Bill

[jcuk]

Maybe just a good strop and polish to to finish off.

He says lifting a glass of wife sorry no cork where this wine came.

JCUK

 

Edited September 5, 2020 by jcuk

[zuludog]

11 minutes ago, jcuk said:

Maybe just a good strop and polish to to finish off

JCUK

 

Yes, that's a thought. You say you are a beginner - have you got a strop? They're easy enough to make, Search YT

[dikman]

5 hours ago, Alaisiagae said:

Thanks, @fredk, I'll give that a try. I'm also wondering if the leather is extra tough because it's been dyed and glued and I'm trying to pierce the glued part.

Yep. Dying veg tends to stiffen it, in my experience, and the glue definitely adds an extra layer of hardness. Try your awl on plain veg first, that should give you an idea of whether it's working ok.

[YinTx]

8 hours ago, Alaisiagae said:

So, I spent the past 1.5 hours working on this, started with 320, then 400, 600, and worked my way up to 2500 grit. I mostly followed Niel A's method. I tried rounding the tip, but then it wouldn't pierce the leather, so I made it pointy again. It goes through thick belly very cleanly, but I'm still struggling on some thin dyed veg tan. Well, at least I got a polished awl blade for my trouble.

How about a photo of what you have so far?  I just used my awl to go through two layers of alligator, one layer of bentex, one layer of Pelton, and three layers of Chevre Chagrin.  I wasn't happy with the results, but I was able to pierce all layers fairly easily.  And each layer has some contact cement in there...

YinTx

[Alaisiagae]

12 hours ago, YinTx said:

How about a photo of what you have so far?  I just used my awl to go through two layers of alligator, one layer of bentex, one layer of Pelton, and three layers of Chevre Chagrin.  I wasn't happy with the results, but I was able to pierce all layers fairly easily.  And each layer has some contact cement in there...

YinTx

It was tricky getting the photos, but here they are: top down and profile (side) views. 

[chuck123wapati]

I hold the awl still and polish it with 2500 sandpaper glued to a popsicle stick. You only need to get the tip sharp about 1/4" or a bit past the radius. I tried neils method but its very hard to move that small of edge evenly over a strop . paper or stone imo and keep the shape. Hold the awl still and the blade sideyou are working on flat then polish with the paper away from the spine& toward the edge. then turn the awl and do each four  sides. The tip is the most important part if you dont get the tip sharp it wont push through no matter how sharp the edges. Use a magnifier of some type.

[OLESKIVER]

you might also want to go to YT and watch the Don Gonzales video on awl sharpening. he explains everything in detail and is pretty straight forward. a good teacher. you might also wand to go to Weaver leather and click on the how to videos, then ask chuck to do or show how to sharpen one if he doesn't already have one. very good teacher, and very experianced. 

[YinTx]

Also, post a photo of the front side and exit side of the hole it makes piercing veg tan and the softer leather you are having issues with.  

The first photo seems to show a blunted tip, the second quite pointy.  You will need some cutting edges part way up the blade, otherwise it will just be forcing it's way through and perhaps tearing the leather instead of a clean cut.  Those edges need to be pretty razor sharp as well.  Then blunted where you just want the leather to be stretched open to allow room for the needle and thread.

YinTx

[Alaisiagae]

yeah, I've ordered some lower grit sandpaper (100, 150, 200) and I'm making some snading sticks using popsicle sticks. I'll give it another go today (depends when the new sandpaper arrives). My first attempt, I put my sandpaper on top of a wood block, like how the Leathertoolz video did it. Then I used Niel A's method of sharpening each side on the sandpaper, like how he used his carborudem stick/block. I did notice that it was difficult to make contact along the entire length of the awl blade, so I focused on the tip, which is nice and polished. I checked the awl blade a lot but never felt a burr, so perhaps I did something wrong. Also, the spine (shoulder) shifted slightly to the side, despite my best efforts to sharpen each side the same amount. I'm not sure how to fix that.

 

EDIT: the 320 and up grits were from 3M, their automotive line of sandpaper. The lower (100 to 200) are 3M general purpose sandpaper.

Edited September 7, 2020 by Alaisiagae

[Alaisiagae]

I used my improvised sanding sticks and was able to get 90% of the blade nicely polished. The tip is ultra pointy and extermely sharp. The sides aren't as sharp as, say, my utility knife - should they be that sharp? I tested it on that thin leather, and it goes through it very easily now.

[McCarthy]

42 minutes ago, Alaisiagae said:

I used my improvised sanding sticks and was able to get 90% of the blade nicely polished. The tip is ultra pointy and extermely sharp. The sides aren't as sharp as, say, my utility knife - should they be that sharp? I tested it on that thin leather, and it goes through it very easily now.

The parallel portion of the sides don't need to be sharp at all. You may want them more slender to reduce drag but they aren't cutting anything, only expanding the hole cut by the tip of the awl blade.

[YinTx]

1 hour ago, Alaisiagae said:

I used my improvised sanding sticks and was able to get 90% of the blade nicely polished. The tip is ultra pointy and extermely sharp. The sides aren't as sharp as, say, my utility knife - should they be that sharp? I tested it on that thin leather, and it goes through it very easily now.

If you are happy with the results, then you are there.  You may discover later that you want a different profile on a different leather/project, so then get another awl and profile it differently.  First photo is a sampling of blades that I have and use.  The last two photos are of a flat profile blade that I enjoy using when I want the exit hole the same size as the entrance hole, and flat.

YinTx