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Posted

I may have asked before and got no answer.

The servo on my Adler 69 starts at 16 and goes up to41.  I can't get it any lower.I've got it somewhere near where I want it by putting a 40mm pulley on it but it still catches me out sometimes. If I can't get a solution I'll probably replace the hand wheel with a large pulley. Anyone got a manual please?

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Posted
14 minutes ago, Danne said:

Not same brand name, but same model number so I guess it's the same servo

http://www.jegon.com/upload/ueditor/file/20181222/15454620994420286.doc

http://www.jegon.com/en/products/46.htm

That's great Danne, thank you. Unfortunately I can't see an answer to my problem. I already know how to change the speed but it just won't go lower than sixteen. On my other machine (different servo) it starts at 1.

I've sent an email but not holding my breath.

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Posted
22 minutes ago, toxo said:

That's great Danne, thank you. Unfortunately I can't see an answer to my problem. I already know how to change the speed but it just won't go lower than sixteen. On my other machine (different servo) it starts at 1.

I've sent an email but not holding my breath.

In the manual it talks about two modes, one low speed mode.

And here I see the same model number and "0-5000 RPM Adjustable Speed Control"

https://www.tokopedia.com/ptsams/dinamo-mesin-jahit-industri-550watt-mtr-energy-saving-servo-motor

Posted
9 minutes ago, Danne said:

In the manual it talks about two modes, one low speed mode.

And here I see the same model number and "0-5000 RPM Adjustable Speed Control"

https://www.tokopedia.com/ptsams/dinamo-mesin-jahit-industri-550watt-mtr-energy-saving-servo-motor

The slower of the two modes starts slower but to be honest I don't see much difference between the two modes.

I'm not sure of the slowest speed at what would be No1 but the speed goes up by 100 for each increase thus No50 equates to 5000. Mine starts at 16 but I've installed a 40mm pulley so god knows what speed it's doing. Both speed modes will use whater No is selected.

I'm beginning to feel like a dog with a bone. I can do a stitch at a time if I'm careful and I think some foam under the pedal or a spring/bungee will cut down the surprises. At the moment I'm frightened to put my foot on the treadle if there's any work under the needle.

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Posted (edited)

all motors start 0 RPM (of course) question is what is the next step. Most servos start working between 100 and 200 rpm - I guess 16 mean 160 rpm and 1 means 100 rpm

I would add a speed reducer 1:3 speed reducer. I added SR´s to ALL my machines - its just gives you a much better speed control. A larger hand wheel / pulley on the machine is another option but to be honest I do not like that just for optical reasons but that's just me.

DIY speed reducers are cheap you just need a 40 - 50mm pulley, a 120 - 150mm pulley, ~100 - 150mm long 15mm diameter shaft, 2 pillow block bearings, some scrap wood and some screws... Should be doable for approx 25 - 40 bucks (depends on your market and currency) .

This is my DIY reducer I put on my 51w post bet set up.

 

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Edited by Constabulary

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

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Posted
1 hour ago, Constabulary said:

all motors start 0 RPM (of course) question is what is the next step. Most servos start working between 100 and 200 rpm - I guess 16 mean 160 rpm and 1 means 100 rpm

I would add a speed reducer 1:3 speed reducer. I added SR´s to ALL my machines - its just gives you a much better speed control. A larger hand wheel / pulley on the machine is another option but to be honest I do not like that just for optical reasons but that's just me.

DIY speed reducers are cheap you just need a 40 - 50mm pulley, a 120 - 150mm pulley, ~100 - 150mm long 15mm diameter shaft, 2 pillow block bearings, some scrap wood and some screws... Should be doable for approx 25 - 40 bucks (depends on your market and currency) .

This is my DIY reducer I put on my 51w post bet set up.

 

IMG_1467.JPG

IMG_1509.JPG

IMG_1469.JPG

LOL

Thanks for the definition ,  What you call a speed reducer,  And that is EXACTLY what it is

I call a Jack shaft with a slave pulley  

See the source image

 

Singer 66, Chi Chi Patcher, Rex 26-188, singer 29k62 , 2-needles

D.C.F.M

 

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Posted

My feeling with those type of servos has been the same as yours... almost satisfied.  

I switched to a simple servo with one manual knob to control the speed, and a box style speed reducer mounted between the table and motor.  Steady stitch at a time, with no lurching or jumping.  Plus it could probably sew through plywood.  

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Posted
1 hour ago, Frodo said:

I call a Jack shaft with a slave pulley  

Speed reducer is the common term here for the above and similar constructions.

 

55 minutes ago, Pintodeluxe said:

My feeling with those type of servos has been the same as yours... almost satisfied.  

You get what you pay for ;)

I would not pay big $ for a high end servo (like EFKA) cause I just do not have the out put that would justify this investment. The "cheap servo" and speed reducer combo works very well for what I´m doing. I´m very pleased with what I have.

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

Posted

To be fair, the speed of the Adler isn't far away from what I want because I've already installed a 40mm pulley on the servo. I think I will replace the hand wheel for a bigger pulley. I put a 170mm pulley on the Durkopp 239 along with a 75mm pulley on the motor which gives me good speed and control and more torque than the Adler.

I think my biggest problem with the Adler at the moment is the control. It's been put to the front of a Singer table and getting close to the action meant that I was inadvertently putting more weight on the toe and the balance was such that it would suddenly start and frighten the life out of me. I moved the treadle forward slightly but I can't counterbalance the weight of the treadle. I will add springs/bungees to the forward edge of the thing until I get it tamed.

Folker, I appreciate what you're saying and of course, each to his own but for me a car is for getting from A to B not spending hours polishing it. Those SR gizmos are way too much faff for me. A pulley and taperlock bush will probably cost around £20/£25, Will give me the speed I want, and because it has more mass will be slightly slower to get going and give more torque. It will be easier to "handwheel" and will take minutes to fit excluding any alterations to the EPS infrastructure.

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