Slick Sheath

[Woodshed]

When I got this 1 7/16" slick early this year it needed sharpening a handle and a sheath. So this sheath is part of the first wave of sheaths I made, but even having that strike against it, it's functional and doesn't slip off the slick.  It's a big heavy chunk of sharp metal to look out for!

[JWheeler331]

Pretty neat. 

[Woodshed]

5 minutes ago, JWheeler331 said:

Pretty neat. 

Thanks! I like the design better than the execution. I'd use heavier leather today.

[JWheeler331]

1 minute ago, Woodshed said:

Thanks! I like the design better than the execution. I'd use heavier leather today.

What exactly is the tool? Is it just a chisel? 

[Woodshed]

It is a timber framing slick, a chisel that allows cutting mortises through big timbers without barking one's knuckles. Really a must have tool for a timber framer. The handle socket is canked upward which keeps the knuckles above the wood safely. It is 20" long and weighs close to 1 1/2 lb.

Edited September 24, 2020 by Woodshed
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[JHLeatherwood]

That's very cool. And I'd love to see the actual tool - looks like it's a beast.

One question: Is the Sam Browne button closure cut the right way? It looks to me like the stud would slide toward the slot, rather than the hole.

[Woodshed]

Yes it is wrong, not deliberately but due to my ignorance! :p  Thanks for pointing that out! I had not thought of that before, so that's info I can use from now on. Awesome!

And you are also correct. The tool is a beast, so much so it makes it fun to use!

Edited September 25, 2020 by Woodshed
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[BDub77]

On 9/25/2020 at 12:37 PM, Woodshed said:

Yes it is wrong, not deliberately but due to my ignorance! :p  Thanks for pointing that out! I had not thought of that before, so that's info I can use from now on. Awesome!

And you are also correct. The tool is a beast, so much so it makes it fun to use!

Well, this is interesting - I've had this concern for years, so I may as well bring it up here since it's a great example. When I was a boy I had a bag with Sam Browne studs and they were mounted the same way you did it on your sheath strap. The beauty part of this mounting technique it that if the two pieces of leather being joined by the stud happen to move and relax as you walk/hike/work/whatever, the stud ends up in the slit, not in the hole. This makes it substantially less likely to pop open, especially if your item has ten or twenty years of wear on it. The hole can certainly get bigger and looser over time. It also meant that I had to pull the joint tight to get the stud lined up with the hole and then I could easily open it. Does anyone else think the same as I do about SB studs, or am I alone in the world, preferering to mount them "wrong"? :-) Please note the smiley face - I have no emotional attachment to being right (about this, or really anything about leathercraft). Sincerly curious to learn other opinions.

 

[Seagrove59]

I like your design, I have made two cases for a buddy of mine, I like how you wet moulded yours I was looking to do that on the last one I owe him as it is 2” wide Blade and the thickness of the taper of the blade. I found the making of the side rand was so thick, due to the taper of the blade, it was tough getting stitching holes through. 
Quick questions,  Did you put extra leather in the end to compensate for the sharpness of the blade? What weight leather are you considering?

[Woodshed]

2 hours ago, Seagrove59 said:

Quick questions,  Did you put extra leather in the end to compensate for the sharpness of the blade? What weight leather are you considering?

Yes, there is a bolster, but just at the tip end to protect the stitches there. The side stitches don't need protection.

Because the weight of the tool is similar to that of a hatchet, I'll use 8-9 oz leather for the next go at it. That is the thickness that I'm preferring for hatchet and axe sheaths so I've started keeping some on hand at all times.

Making stitching holes in thick build ups is challenging; lately I've been marking and making the holes on the front panel first, using a stitching wheel and awls. Once the back panels are glued in place, I use the holes in the front panel as a guide and continue the holes the rest of the way through the back panel. Going to this two-step process adds just a few minutes to the build time, but cuts the working thickness down and the awl work is a bit easier.