Dyed leather bleeding

[cdschoonie]

Hello, I just found and joined this forum, and I just beginning leather crafting for fun.

I am making a small project, I dyed it, applied mink oil, and it’s bleeding off significantly. If it helps, it’s veg tan, dyed black. I have read that Resoline will stop the bleeding. My questions are, first, will the Resoline stop it? Second, if it will stop it, do I use black Resoline, or neutral? And lastly, will it still work even though I already oiled it, or did I destroy it?

thank you for any help!
 

[Rhale]

Black is the worst color for bleeding and rub off, it’s so bad I don’t use it anymore!  I know of no way to totally eliminate it!  Good Luck!

[ScottWolf]

Did you rub/buff the item after dying it until no more dye came off on the rag? If you didn't do this step, this is likely your issue. As for resolene, use the neutral, as you'll be able to use it for other projects as well. Cut it 50/50 with water, avoid bubbles when applying it.   

[OLESKIVER]

52 minutes ago, cdschoonie said:

Hello, I just found and joined this forum, and I just beginning leather crafting for fun.

I am making a small project, I dyed it, applied mink oil, and it’s bleeding off significantly. If it helps, it’s veg tan, dyed black. I have read that Resoline will stop the bleeding. My questions are, first, will the Resoline stop it? Second, if it will stop it, do I use black Resoline, or neutral? And lastly, will it still work even though I already oiled it, or did I destroy it?

thank you for any help!
 

out of curiosity, why did you use mink oil instead of pure neatsfoot oil? and did you let your project fully dry before putting on finish, oh wait you skipped that part. well, that might be ok. I always put top coat or finish on before I oiled something, but I also only use pure neatsfoot oil. am not that up on some of the new "techniques" you might have to start over, if you didn't tool it you could just get you a piece of black leather and use that and not have to worry about, bleeding or rubbing off. When I started doing this the old adage was " If you screw it up you can always dye it black." of course that was for tooled leather.

[cdschoonie]

1 hour ago, OLESKIVER said:

out of curiosity, why did you use mink oil instead of pure neatsfoot oil? and did you let your project fully dry before putting on finish, oh wait you skipped that part. well, that might be ok. I always put top coat or finish on before I oiled something, but I also only use pure neatsfoot oil. am not that up on some of the new "techniques" you might have to start over, if you didn't tool it you could just get you a piece of black leather and use that and not have to worry about, bleeding or rubbing off. When I started doing this the old adage was " If you screw it up you can always dye it black." of course that was for tooled leather.

I went with Mink Oil because when researching, I found 70/30 advice (in the Mink Oil’s favor) between the two. Plus I used Neatsfoot Oil on a previous project and it bled as well. On that project, I didn’t research much, so never found the ‘finishing’ info. So, now I’m just assuming it’s in the finish that I need to figure out. 
Yes, I buffed it (well rubbed it hard) with cloth towels. It stopped coming off so I let it sit overnight the massaged it with oil, let that sit overnight, then went to threading it together. That’s when it started bleeding onto my hands. Other than making another (I have extra leather on hand), or ordering a new piece of black leather, it has no tooling, so it’s not a giant problem to go this route, and using Neatsfoot.

[cdschoonie]

I just ordered a piece of black leather... So, massage with Neatsfoot, let dry, and use Resoline? Or no Resoline?

[chiefjason]

Resolene it.  It won't hurt it at this point.  

What kind of dye?  I use Feibings Pro Oil Black and no problems with bleeding.  The USMC black was the worst for bleeding.  

[cdschoonie]

3 hours ago, chiefjason said:

Resolene it.  It won't hurt it at this point.  

What kind of dye?  I use Feibings Pro Oil Black and no problems with bleeding.  The USMC black was the worst for bleeding.  

Is just the Feibings alcohol-based dye.

[Rahere]

From the dye angle, we seem to be in the stone age. Normally, a mordant's applied first to give the dye something to get into, and very often something similar's used as a fixative. Traditionally, this was sodium carbonate (NOT bicardonate) otherwise known as washing soda and soda ash.

Dyes not fixing properly are indications a mordant is needed, but how this or other preparations interact with leather tannins is a moot point.

Has anyone experimented?

[chiefjason]

5 hours ago, cdschoonie said:

Is just the Feibings alcohol-based dye.

Try the Pro Oil version next go around.  I do a lot of black holster and no rub off on the finish.  Oxblood is the one that give me fits with rub off.