Dyed leather bleeding

[Alaisiagae]

As others have said, you will need to add a finish, such as Resolene, to lock-in the dye and mitigate rub-off and bleeding. I have only used water-based dyes, so I'm not sure about bleeding compared to alcohol based dyes. I also use Super Shene, but would use Resolene if I had any - and sometimes I use Neatlac. I always get a bit of rub-off when applying the finish, but after the finish dries, I don't get more rub-off. I usually use more than 1 coat of finish. There's a video from Weaver Leather ("The Leather Element") about black dyes, finishes, and rub off here on their blog page.

If you bought black leather, I think it would have already had a finish added to it, but I could be wrong. It probably wouldn't hurt to add some Resolene on it anyways. You don't necessarily have to use Neatsfoot unless the leather is dried out. Pre-dyed leathers usually have oils put in them from the tannery, though my experience is limited so I may be incorrect. 

[Handstitched]

G"day,

I had a lot of trouble in the early  days using oil based dyes on belts, so frustrating . No matter how many coats of sealer I apply, the dye still came through . I now use water based dyes , that have just little bit of  alcohol to aid drying. I also use regular  water based polyurethane sealers, and hi shine sealers, (some of which are chemical based)  .   But, no more rub-offs .  The belts still come out just as nice    

HS

[1961Mike]

Hi, I've made several black belts using Vinegaroon.  I made it with Cider Vinegar and steel wool.

https://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,11991.0.html

I put it in the dye bath for 10 minutes, wash it in a Baking soda bath, rinse and let it dry for a few days.  I let it dry until it quits smelling like vinegar.  So far so good.  I've finished it with Resolene, Tan Kote and Bag Kote.  I commonly finish the back side with Gum Tag, and cover that with Bag Kote.

Later

 

[cdschoonie]

Thank you all very much for the replies and good advice! As soon as I can get to the supply store, I get the stuff to finish it. I’ll let you all know what works.

[cdschoonie]

On 10/11/2020 at 2:46 PM, ScottWolf said:

Did you rub/buff the item after dying it until no more dye came off on the rag? If you didn't do this step, this is likely your issue. As for resolene, use the neutral, as you'll be able to use it for other projects as well. Cut it 50/50 with water, avoid bubbles when applying it.   

I’ll do it, so I can just cut it with water? No need for alcohol or anything? 
You say avoid bubbles? I’ve obviously never used it, what do I need to look for and how do I avoid the bubbles? If I get them, how are they eliminated?

Thank you!

[ScottWolf]

14 hours ago, cdschoonie said:

I’ll do it, so I can just cut it with water? No need for alcohol or anything? 
You say avoid bubbles? I’ve obviously never used it, what do I need to look for and how do I avoid the bubbles? If I get them, how are they eliminated?

Thank you!

Yes. No, nothing else. Don't shake the bottle before use, it will create bubbles. If while you are applying it, you get a bubble on your item, you need pop it, so it doesnt dry with a bubble on it. Its an acrylic sealer, same as mop and glow, like you use on the floor, so it creates a shell on top of the leather. You dont want dried in bubbles in your shell. Cutting it 50/50 will help reduce that as well as reduce the amount of shine. Apply 1-2 coats as needed

[cdschoonie]

2 hours ago, ScottWolf said:

Yes. No, nothing else. Don't shake the bottle before use, it will create bubbles. If while you are applying it, you get a bubble on your item, you need pop it, so it doesnt dry with a bubble on it. Its an acrylic sealer, same as mop and glow, like you use on the floor, so it creates a shell on top of the leather. You dont want dried in bubbles in your shell. Cutting it 50/50 will help reduce that as well as reduce the amount of shine. Apply 1-2 coats as needed

Thank you! I’ll let you know how it works out.

[1961Mike]

Hi

I put Resolene on with a rag.  I'm finishing a Meander edged belt, so the divots in the Meander are fairly deep.  I put a lot of half and half Resolene on to get the holes filled and then wipe the rest "down stream".  I just rub until the White in the Resolene doesn't have any bubbles in it.  Does anyone spray on the Resolene or use a dauber?

Later

[cdschoonie]

On 10/11/2020 at 2:48 PM, OLESKIVER said:

out of curiosity, why did you use mink oil instead of pure neatsfoot oil? and did you let your project fully dry before putting on finish, oh wait you skipped that part. well, that might be ok. I always put top coat or finish on before I oiled something, but I also only use pure neatsfoot oil. am not that up on some of the new "techniques" you might have to start over, if you didn't tool it you could just get you a piece of black leather and use that and not have to worry about, bleeding or rubbing off. When I started doing this the old adage was " If you screw it up you can always dye it black." of course that was for tooled leather.

I found Neatsfoot at the local farm supply, one question, they have “100% pure Neatsfoot oil”, as well as “Prime Neatsfoot oil compound” (which I’ve never heard of). I’m assuming I need the 100% Neatsfoot Oil, and not the compound?

[OLESKIVER]

that would be correct. When I was starting out I had someone tell me or read it somewhere that the compound over time deteareates the leather. so personally, I haven't ever used it.  I will caution you on the use of the neatsfoot oil. use it sparingly. a littlke goes a long way and you can always add more but you can't take it out. I use it on all my tack and saddles. and my boots, since they are oiled, not polished. hope this helped