What tools should a newbie not skimp on?

[Brigg]

I am new to leather working and am having trouble figuring out what I should spend money on and what I can skimp on. I don't want to buy junk but I also don't want to overdo it either. What should I make sure I invest in when getting started?

I want to make luxury leather wallets, bags, and attaché cases. I am going to try and do some projects in a book first and then do the Leathercraft Masterclass (I like the projects he does) and then if I decide to move forward with this hobby I want to take Amblard Leather Atelier classes in person. Also, if anyone has opinions on either these classes/courses I would be curious to know.

Awls and pricking irons confuse me. Is it better to get sharp pricking irons that go all the way through the leather or get duller ones and use an awl? On the expensive side there is Amy Roke (sharp) and Blanchard (dull?). I want to get my stitches as nice as possible and don't mind the awl step if the result is actually better. Should I get cheaper ones? Considering the projects I want to do I will likely need more than one set (I am thinking 2.7mm and 3.8mm).

Thank you for your help.

[Hardrada]

You shouldn't skimp on any of them!

KS Blade chisels, FTW. For wallets I'd go with the 3.38 mm ones.

They're not cheap.

If you don't feel like making such an investment right now, I'd go with the Seiwa chisels, from goodsjapan.com. They're not fancy looking, but don't be fooled: they're very good quality and are good for starters and are so sturdy that you can keep them as back-up when you migrate to the KS Blade chisels.

I'd advise not to use pricking irons and awl if you're just starting: stitching with these takes lots of practice to get right. For wallets and bags you won't be going through several layers of heavy leather, and thus the chisels will be best. Still, do get yourself a diamond awl from goodsjapan.com too, I'd suggest the Kyoshin Elle: comes quite sharp right off the bat. At times, you might indeed end up with a certain thickness that will require the chisels to begin the holes, and the awl to finish them.

[Kcstott]

Tough question. and I do agree don't skimp on anything but if money was no object you wouldn't be asking for options. 

So tools that speed your production pay for them selves over time. I'd heed the advice to the chisels above. I'm a machine stitcher but I'm now getting back into hand stitching as it just looks better on some things and in some joints it's unavoidable. 
You don't need an expensive hammer. a good Ball Peen will do. a nylon mallet will work as well. Cutting tools that can be resharpened are worth the money. Learn how to sharpen and strop your blades. Good edge tools are going to be a must for boutique wallets and hand bags. 

Now here's one thing few talk about. The quality and hand of the leather you buy. Do not cheep out on the leather unless you love frustration. At a minimum for a high end product you should be buying Herman oak, for Veg tan. I highly recommend Wicket and Craig for bridle leather and also if you can find it in this country is Sedgewick English Bridle. this makes great belts and straps and nothing compares. 
Thin English bridle make beautiful wallets and cases. it's very easy to work with and cuts exceptionally well. 
Tandy is not the place to go even though they recently began selling Herman oak leather. it's online only and the local shops don't carry it or they don't advertise that they have it. 
Remember. when a person buys a bespoke top quality product. they expect top quality. from the glue, thread, leather and finish. it all must be top quality not to mention your skill and labor. 

[zuludog]

Go to the 'Sewing Leather' section of this Forum, then the Pinned Thread 'Stitching chisels/irons and pricking irons reviews and information'. There is a very good Post by Dangerous Beans aka Nigel Armitage

The key to good leatherwork is to have razor sharp tools, but getting them to that stage takes time & care, and therefore adds to the cost. So most tools only come with a basic finish and will need some sort of final sharpening & polishing, and you are expected to do that yourself. It is only the most expensive and exotic makes that you are able to use straight out of the box; even with those, you will eventually have to re - sharpen them. Search YouTube for 'sharpening an awl'; and for other tools as you acquire them

Stitching chisels have sharp, long prongs that will go through leather up to about 8mm thick. For anything thicker there are two choices - finish off the part - made holes with an awl, or make the holes in each piece of leather first, then line them up as you sew them. Even if you use stitching chisels most of the time you will still need an awl sometimes

If you hit chisels with a steel hammer, that will damage them, so you will also need a soft - faced mallet or maul - wood, hide, nylon, there are many types available

[jcuk]

If you are thinking about doing the Leather Masterclass and later the Amblard Leather Atelier in person,  courses they are more likely going to teach you the old school way to double hand stitch (saddle stitch) using pricking irons and awl so if it was me i would get pricking irons and awl and learn the best i can from youtube books or maybe someone local to you can teach you this, its far better in the long run to know how to do this, anyone who has leant to double stitch using the traditional method can move onto stitching chisel with no problem cant see that being the case the other way round. As for tool quality buy the best quality your budget allows good tools will always sell better than poor quality tools if you decide this is not for you, buy what you think you will need to just to get you started you started even if it means buying more tools along the way we have had to do this along the way. 

Hope this helps

JCUK

[zuludog]

Have a look at YT videos by JH Leather; all her videos are clear and well made, both for techniques and various items. She uses the pricking iron & awl method

If you're staying with traditional methods, then a round knife is the traditional leatherworker's knife. However, it takes a while to use them well, and they range from expensive to very expensive. Jo from JH Leather uses a head knife, which has only one point, and so is a bit cheaper and easier to use. On the other hand, a Stanley knife/utility knife/box cutter is cheap and easy to use; you may well have one already. You could start with that and only change when you need to; but don't be in a hurry to do this, you can do good work with a Stanley knife. Have a look at videos by Ian Atkinson, he uses a Stanley knife a lot

Traditionally you buy an awl and a haft separately then mount & sharpen them yourself, which is tedious and takes time, so buy them made up. The last awl I got was an Osborne #42, and it only needed a short final fine sharpen and polish. If I was buying  again I would get an Osborne #42 or#43. Mounting it straight in a plain wooden haft is a bit tricky; although I haven't used one, I would seriously consider getting an Osborne haft with a chuck or collet to hold the awl

Watch videos on making the items you're interested in; you'll see the tools that are used, and how it's done

[chrisash]

Abbey is a good place for workmans tools, that is tools that do the job without the fancy wood and price see https://www.abbeyengland.com/

[jcuk]

2 minutes ago, chrisash said:

Abbey is a good place for workmans tools, that is tools that do the job without the fancy wood and price see https://www.abbeyengland.com/

Agree  these are cheap pricking irons that might get you started.

https://www.abbeyengland.com/abbey-traditional-oblique-pricking-iron-set-right-hand-10098.html

https://www.abbeyengland.com/abbey-traditional-oblique-pricking-iron-set-left-hand-9965.html

Linked to both Left and right might be useful to you later in your journey into leather craft.

They also have heavier pricking irons at not to bad a price too but maybe more aimed at the saddlery/ Harness industry again in Left and right handed too.

As for a Round knife there are many out there, again here is a single head knife will do anything thing a round knife will do easier to use and sharpen much less learning curve also. I started with one of these many moons ago cheap as chips still go strong now.

https://www.abbeyengland.com/barnsley-single-head-knife-552.html

Again hope this helps

JCUK

 

[Danne]

If you have decided that you want the European style irons, and want to spend a little bit more money on quality ones. I would recommend you to not choose pricking irons (Blanchard is an example of pricking irons, where the main purpose is to mark the hole and open it with an awl, because the prongs have a taper) But instead use "stitching irons" There are a couple of brands to choose from, I can only say my opinion about the irons I have. Ksblade and Kevinlee. Both of them give a very good result. Kevinlee is cheaper. Ksblade is ergonomically better (Kevinlee is a little top heavy) also Ksblade aligns easy to a scribed line. But i'm happy with both of the brands. 

In most cases I use them as somewhere between pricking and stitching irons when I make wallets, I pre-punch the exterior, and open up the holes with an awl after assembled. For watch straps I punch all the way through. 

[mike02130]

I make handbags and wallets.  If you are going high-end luxury you really ought to be using Italian or French cow and goat (chevre) leather in sizes ranging from .05 mm to 2 mm.  Wallets and small goods use a 3.0-3.38 iron.  A 2.7 iron is good for watch straps but you could get by with 3.0.  If you are making your own patterns a 3.0 iron makes it easier to do the math on the layout.  "Pricking irons" such as Vergez Blanchard are old school and are not used by many since the advent of irons such as KS Blades, Sinabroks and others.  I've used Sinabroks and Amy Roke and they are more for pricking or going through thinner leather.  Do you really want a true pricking iron and then use an awl to go through hundreds of holes on a handbag?  Sinabroks are highly polished but dull.  They need to be sharpened.  Their handles are round and uncomfortable.  The teeth are square across making it more difficult to center on a scribed stitching line.  KS have teeth that are not as dull as the Sinabroks and need some touching up and polishing.  The tips are slightly round allowing then to register in the center of the scribed line and penetrating the leather easier.  I own four sets of the KS irons. Kevin Lee's irons get rave reviews and have a more traditional look and are sharp and polished and are made to go through layers of leather.  His is about the only product from China I would recommend.  Shipping is expensive and there may be a long wait time. High-end makers say they are the best bang for your buck.  Any of these two iron sets are going to cost around $200.

Using the above irons and making wallets and watch straps and other flat goods an awl may not be necessary.  If you make handbags with gussets an awl is necessary.  Really, every leather worker ought to have an awl.  I have a few and choose to use different ones in different situations or according to my whims.  A Vergez Blanchard awl I like very much.  The cost is around $22. and needs quite a bit of work to polish.  A better awl that's ready to use and is more suited to the above irons and high-end work is a Palosanto flat awl.

You will need an edger, too.  With that you are looking at around the $300 neighborhood.  Those three items will be your most important and most used tools.  Do not skimp.

All the recommendations from the other posters above are good.  You need to figure out your needs and desires.  If you buy cheap tools it is easier monetarily and psychologically to upgrade to more expensive tools.  Buy middle priced tools and that makes it more difficult.

Many people new to leather work get excited in the beginning and get a raging boner thinking about doing the craft.  Once started they realize that it is much more difficult and expensive than they thought.  I see that this is your first post-- don't be one of those people and make sure at some point to thank all the posters that have taken their time out to help you out.

11 hours ago, Hardrada said:

FTW Used to have another meaning before the youngins and game show hosts appropriated it.  Google it.  

 

Edited December 24, 2020 by mike02130
added an indefinite article

[Grumpymann]

IMHP weather or not you go expensive or cheap is less of a question than you would think its about keeping them in good working order.

I recently got some of my blades sharpened professionally (Not all that expensive in fact) but the edge has lasted LONGER on a blade I bought cheap from ebay, why you ask I strop that blade all the time. I strop it when I put it away and when I pick it up.

Same with a few drive punches. I rigged up a Dremel arbor with a few leather disks and some jewelers compound to polish then my expensive punches may keep an edge longer than my cheaper than cheap ones but they work just as well when I use them. 

So as far as I'm concerned I would START out midrange, SLOWLY upgrading up what I use more often and what needs to be  replaced.

As far as what to buy for the workflow... use what you need and want to. For me I start out cheap, and move up from there. My expensive awl is rarely used and my cheap irons get a work out. Because I like the use if stitching irons. 

Remember what people say here is derived from personal experience. 

What ever you decide have fun. Do that and weather you are a pro or just once a year let it stress you LESS. And smile more. without that you might try cross stitch.

 

Edited December 24, 2020 by Grumpymann
spelling

[Brigg]

Thank you all for the replies!

I have a lot to think about. I did not know there was a difference between a stitching chisel and a pricking iron. I also appreciate the leather suggestions. It is hard to know what leather to buy in the beginning because I don't want to buy something that is awful to work with and that is of low quality but I also don't want to buy really high end practice material. If anyone has other suggestions I would be curious to know.

What edger would you recommend?

Selecting tools is definitely difficult when it is unclear how to get the results I want. I have attached some photos of the kind of things I would like to make. I also am fond very fond of Hermes, Moynat, Berluti, Dunhill, Goyard (full leather products). I don't know if this would guide my tool selection.

Hakase x T. MBH

Qualialeather

Swaine Adeney

tl.watchstrapvn

[Hardrada]

33 minutes ago, Brigg said:

What edger would you recommend?

For your intended purposes: #0 & #1 (later on you can add a #2 if you're working with heavy leathers).

Good quality and affordable:

https://www.goodsjapan.com/leather-craft-items/general-leather-tools/kyoshin-elle-leathercraft-deluxe-leather-edge-beveller-sharpener-0-6mm-edger-0/a-20564

https://www.goodsjapan.com/leather-craft-items/general-leather-tools/kyoshin-elle-leathercraft-deluxe-leather-edge-beveller-sharpener-0-8mm-edger-1/a-20469

[JLSleather]

If you want to do nice work, get nice tools.  Having said that, I honestly don't know where those are nowadays - SO much of what is available is just "not what it used to be".  If my tools ever need replaced, I guess I'll hunt like the next guy!

That said, one trick is to NOT spend money where it's not called for - not quite the same but a good effect.  Like, you'll see numerous posts going on about a "round" or "head" knife.  Absolutely a great tool for a saddle maker, maybe not needed to make what you show here.  Long straight lines are easily cut with a $4 utility knife, replace the blade for 25¢ when needed (versus $150+ for a "round" knife, requiring your time to sharpen / strop).

Attention to detail is your friend as well.  Is that frayed thread in the first pic above?  Seriously... that kind of thing makes an otherwise very nice project look cheap.

[jcuk]

If you are going to go on this course 

https://www.amblardleatheratelier.com

They have a recommended tools  list which i believe the Blanchard pricking irons will fit their patterns/templates all pricking irons from different manufacturers will be slightly different in theirs spi even if they say they 10 spi they will vary slightly. The other tools may not matter.

With any cutting tool i strop before use and after less time spent on sharpening them. 

 

JCUK

 

 

[Brigg]

1 hour ago, JLSleather said:

If you want to do nice work, get nice tools.  Having said that, I honestly don't know where those are nowadays - SO much of what is available is just "not what it used to be".  If my tools ever need replaced, I guess I'll hunt like the next guy!

That said, one trick is to NOT spend money where it's not called for - not quite the same but a good effect.  Like, you'll see numerous posts going on about a "round" or "head" knife.  Absolutely a great tool for a saddle maker, maybe not needed to make what you show here.  Long straight lines are easily cut with a $4 utility knife, replace the blade for 25¢ when needed (versus $150+ for a "round" knife, requiring your time to sharpen / strop).

Attention to detail is your friend as well.  Is that frayed thread in the first pic above?  Seriously... that kind of thing makes an otherwise very nice project look cheap.

Yikes. I was quoted over $600 for that pen case.

[rodneywt1180b]

Don't use a steel hammer on your tools.  You will damage them  (at least I did).  Buy a decent mallet instead. 

A rotary cutter works well for long straight cuts and is cheaper than a head knife to start.

Check the various threads here on sharpening your tools.  Sharp is more important than brand, at least to get started. 

Splurge on some 1/4 round punches for your corners (on my "want" list).  I still struggle with getting decent curves by hand. 

It takes practice to get the results you show.  Be patient and keep at it.  You'll get there.

[Hardrada]

You will need a steel hammer, though: a cobbler's hammer with a smooth head to tap your stitching work.

Needless to say, you should never use the cobbler's hammer to hammer anything else: if you scratch the head you'll be marking the leather when you flatten the stitches.

Edited December 24, 2020 by Hardrada

[AzShooter]

Everyone has a good suggestion of two on chisels or pricking irons.  Don't forget a goo maul as well.  Heavier is better since you won't have to hit your tool as hard or as often to go through the leather.

A good sharpening kit will also go a long way.  After sharpening remember the strop is your friend.  Many times after a knife got dull all it would need is 20 passes on the strop and it's back to cutting like going through butter.

[mike02130]

Your head must be spinning.  

 

[Hardrada]

https://www.tandyleather.world/products/leathercraft-tools-book

52 minutes ago, AzShooter said:

A good sharpening kit will also go a long way.

Yup.

https://www.danswhetstone.com/product/bench-stones/

Soft and Hard in an 8 x 2 x 1/2 should suffice.

[chrisash]

15 hours ago, Brigg said:

Thank you all for the replies!

I have a lot to think about. I did not know there was a difference between a stitching chisel and a pricking iron. I also appreciate the leather suggestions. It is hard to know what leather to buy in the beginning because I don't want to buy something that is awful to work with and that is of low quality but I also don't want to buy really high end practice material. If anyone has other suggestions I would be curious to know.

What edger would you recommend?

Selecting tools is definitely difficult when it is unclear how to get the results I want. I have attached some photos of the kind of things I would like to make. I also am fond very fond of Hermes, Moynat, Berluti, Dunhill, Goyard (full leather products). I don't know if this would guide my tool selection.

Hakase x T. MBH

Qualialeather

 

Swaine Adeney

 

tl.watchstrapvn

 

Whilst its good to have high ambitions  you will need to be realistic, the leather workers in these factories have had probably 3-5 years apprenticeship with top master leather workers and then many years learning the trade. you will only know what tool is best for you when you have gained some experience and learnt the skills to be able to judge

[Brigg]

7 hours ago, chrisash said:

Whilst its good to have high ambitions  you will need to be realistic, the leather workers in these factories have had probably 3-5 years apprenticeship with top master leather workers and then many years learning the trade. you will only know what tool is best for you when you have gained some experience and learnt the skills to be able to judge

I agree with your point and it is more likely than not I will never get there.

I think I may have put the cart before the horse with this thread in that I have no idea which projects to start with. How do you determine what style of leather craft to begin with?

I bought this book Making Leather Bags, Wallets, and Cases: 20+ Projects with Contemporary Style The projects appear very simple. The tool list is about $200 (mostly Kyoshin Elle products). I like the minimalistic design, the final result looks visually appealing but if these items were for sale in a store I wouldn't buy them for myself. From an aesthetic perspective I much prefer the look of these projects to the Tandy and Weaver projects I have seen.

I also have the Valerie Michael book and I like her style very much. The projects seem like too much for me off the bat, though, suggesting a huge workshop and thousands of dollars of tools.

[Retswerb]

Where to start depends on a whole host of things but the most important questions only you can answer. What do you like? What do you want to create? The pictures above are a great start to that.

I’ve not looked at either of those books in person but I’d suggest starting simply with a basic project from either to get your feet wet and see what appeals to you along the way. 

A few years back I started looking at some basic wallets and notebook covers and thought “I could make that.” Never would have guessed that along the road I’d develop a real appreciation for Sheridan work and other styles that didn’t appeal to me at first.

[Aven]

18 hours ago, Hardrada said:

You will need a steel hammer, though: a cobbler's hammer with a smooth head to tap your stitching work.

Needless to say, you should never use the cobbler's hammer to hammer anything else: if you scratch the head you'll be marking the leather when you flatten the stitches.

Cobbler's hammers come with a smooth or a checkered face.  If you grab a checkered one because the price was right. Patience and a file/sander will fix the face.  You can also glue leather on the face.  If you get one off of Ebay or it's ilk, you can clean up the face the same way.  Unless its been used to beat on metal tools, sand paper should be enough.  I'm partial the French style.  It's easier to get into places with the tail.  But an English style works well too, you just need to learn your tool

Wrising.com has mauls that have cosmetic defects that will save you some money.  I've had mine for about 4 years now.  I have no regrets about that purchase.

My father was a machinist that did tool and die work.  His thoughts on tools was that "professional" tools won't make you a professional, but good quality tools will make it easier to learn the craft.  Cheap tools will work, but what you save in money you will spend in time fixing the tool or sharpening it every time you just look at it, and/or having to go slower with it to get the results you want.  In a nutshell, buy the absolute best tool you need that you can afford.  BUT make sure the tool is worth the money and you aren't paying for the hype around the name.  Oh, and make what you can, like a stitching pony, horse or clam.  Plans for a stitching horse, pages 98 - 104  https://ia802605.us.archive.org/32/items/farmwoodwork00roeh/farmwoodwork00roeh.pdf