Leather hats

[Doc Reaper]

I just have a couple of simple questions

1 - how do you size a hat, and is there a formula to use to transfer to the material so I cut it right????

2) - how do I know that the hat will fit?

[fredk]

For #1 the best way is measure around the head; about  1 inch above the eye brows and just above the ears

If you are making a hat of panels, the sum of all the panels, each panel measured between the sewing lines at a point which will the brow line, should equal the total of the circumference of the head

For something like a fedora, which has a one piece crown, that should be the same as the head circumference plus any sewing/lacing allowance if its ab over-lap join

#2 you don't, until you try it on. If you've measured and cut carefully it should fit ok

 

[Doc Reaper]

What I’m asking is info on either  an Aussie or fedora, do I need to add to compensate for where the brim meets the bottom of the stack? Is there a way to make the oval hole in the brim piece that matches the circumference of my head

[fredk]

Just so we is all talking the same; The upright part of a fedora type is usually called the crown. The top bit which keeps the rain out is the Crown Former

Yes, you need to add at least 1/4 inch, maybe up to  about 1/2 inch for the bottom edge of the crown to fold outwards to sew to the brim. Commonly, the Crown Former has the excess and its folded down so that the Crown former inserts into the crown piece and then its sewn around the circumference from the side

For fitting to the shape of your head; there are several ways to do that

1. If you have a hat that fits, or even if it doesn't, cut a piece of cardboard so it fits neatly into the hat and use that as a template to cut the hole on the new brim piece card pattern

2. Take some cardboard, cut a hole in it and try fitting it over your head, keep trimming it until it is a comfortable size that fits. Then cut another 1/8 inch or so from the edge of the hole. That's an allowance for the leather of the crown when it fits to the brim. The old time 'mad hatters' of London used to keep wood discs with egg shaped holes in them for sizing customer's heads. They kinda look like toilet seats,  

3. I have a few polystyrene foam heads which I use for sizing the panel hats. In centimetres the heads go from 54cm, 56, 58 & 60 circumference. For doing a brimmed hat I cut a cardboard pattern and trial it out on one of my disembodied heads first 

[chuck123wapati]

Does anyone have a fedora pattern that they would share? My son wants to try his hand at making one. 

[fredk]

There be a couple of fedora type on this

https://tandyleather.com/blogs/leathercraft-library/2662-leather-hat-pattern-pak?_pos=3&_sid=63393a5f8&_ss=r

dieselpunk does a few patterns, eg; https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/628831400/leather-hat-pattern-diy-pattern-hat-diy?click_key=3192e9a2829f90051e7f7d3184613984aa5867f2%3A628831400&click_sum=77f64076&ref=shop_home_active_168&pro=1&sts=1

or this one from another seller

https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/976301141/leather-hat-pattern-digital-pdf-template?ref=internal_similar_listing_bot-2

I have the dieselpunk one. I dunno if I can share it with you.

[chuck123wapati]

28 minutes ago, fredk said:

There be a couple of fedora type on this

https://tandyleather.com/blogs/leathercraft-library/2662-leather-hat-pattern-pak?_pos=3&_sid=63393a5f8&_ss=r

dieselpunk does a few patterns, eg; https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/628831400/leather-hat-pattern-diy-pattern-hat-diy?click_key=3192e9a2829f90051e7f7d3184613984aa5867f2%3A628831400&click_sum=77f64076&ref=shop_home_active_168&pro=1&sts=1

or this one from another seller

https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/976301141/leather-hat-pattern-digital-pdf-template?ref=internal_similar_listing_bot-2

I have the dieselpunk one. I dunno if I can share it with you.

Thanks Fred i have the tandy patterns i may have to use one of those and change it up a bit. This is what he wants

[fredk]

I would describe that hat as a Trilby

[chuck123wapati]

15 hours ago, fredk said:

I would describe that hat as a Trilby

Thanks Fred i didn't know that. In my neck of the woods we have cowboy hats and baseball caps lol I knew it wasn't one of them.

[fredk]

Trilby = looks like a fedora but with narrower brim and the turned up rear of the brim and slopey look to the crown

If you have to adapt a fedora pattern; just reduce the width of the brim, [down to about 2 or 2.5 inches ], and wire the edge so you can turn it up at the rear. Narrow the top of the Crown piece and reduce the size of the Crown former, this will give the crown that sloped inwards look