Hand crank splitter blade

[Doug61]

Hey guys,

Looking for some info on a blade for an Esto 8ins hand crank splitter. The machine looks the same as an American model A. I've been told that these were made in Australia after WW2 by an Estonian migrant, but other than this I can't find any more info. I'm a knife maker so making the blade is no problem, I am just trying to find the dimensions. The blade will be 8 ins long and 3ins wide (the same width as the American unit), but I'm not sure of the thickness of the blade or the height of the bevel. Also, for those of you have experience with these type of machines, would the blade be better flat or hollow ground? Main use will be thinner leathers.

Does anyone know of a manual for the American model A?

Cheers, Doug

Edited January 20, 2021 by Doug61

[Rogueshoemaking]

I’ve just purchased one of these, 

I was wondering if you found out any information on it. Or may have found a manual. Thanks

1 minute ago, Rogueshoemaking said:

I’ve just purchased one of these, 

I was wondering if you found out any information on it. Or may have found a manual. Thanks

 

[Tastech]

Ok ,Here's the lowdown . Better late than never .

 I have an American ST Louis model A . My blade is 152mm wide 6" . 75mm deep 3" . 6.35 mm thick 1/4 inch.

My blade is straight cut at an angle  of 17deg off 180deg . From tip to where the angle starts is 20mm.

I notice your machine has 2 screws on the blade mount plate which would correspond to 2 slots in your blade . My machine has only 1 slot .  When i look a bit harder i see the ESTO has a slight outward curve to the handle while the American has a straight one .Apart from that all parts look interchangeable between the 2 

 Last week i got the urge to strip my machine down to bare bones and give it some love . Inspired by a youtube video i watched . ( video link below ) As of today it is down to bare metal and all the fittings mirror polished . My dilemma is what color should i paint it  . Original color was black .When i got it 30 years ago it was painted ESTO green . Which frankly speaking has always been an eyesore  . I am thinking powder coating it hammer-tone black with silver dimples  or perhaps the bronze version .

BTW  Doug61 . Who chose your color scheme ? Did you channel your inner liberace ? lol . It looks very "festive " for lack of a more appropriate word 

Photo of work in progress below 

Restoration video link    

 

Edited November 2, 2022 by Tastech

[Tastech]

Once again , Better late than never . I forgot i posted this original photo and i owe you guys an update 

I finished the splitter not long after i posted the previous post 

 Here is the finished job along with its little brother . The both are very sharp and work smoothly and effortlessly and quite pleasant on the eye if i say so myself .

[chuck123wapati]

Those are fantastic looking! 

[TomE]

Very pretty machines.  They look like museum pieces.   What is the blue finish? 

[Tastech]

Thanks , when i restore i like them to look like a museum piece so it was intentional. The color is an engine enamel in spray can form . In Australia its called ford blue . Pre 1980's ford Australia pained their motors blue . I sometimes also refer to it as royal blue  but that is incorrect . I like the engine enamels because they look good but they are also very tough and impervious to oils . I have quite a few restored machines from skivers to sewing machines . In another post i have some photos of restored singer 31K48 machines . search 31K48 and you will find them . My real love is restoring singer 29K patchers . If i find a thread on here i will post some photos or i might even start a new thread .

Cheers TomE

[Tastech]

Eh while i am here . a couple of photos of a Viln pederson skiver and trimmer .circa 1950

 The round blade on the top was done and also no longer available. A Landis blade was the right diameter but had a different thread so would not work . The easiest solution was to machine a new shaft with the Landis thread. The thread is a left hand thread . The skiving blade is a stanley hand plane blade that i ground and sharpened to suit  . It works like new and i use it everyday for shoe repairs 

[Tastech]

Here is another one which needed more work as the base was cracked , so i made a new base and did the same trick with the shaft machining. Lucky i made a spare when i did the previous one . 

I pull everything down to the bare bones the clean and paint strip the parts . I soak every thig in an acid bath to remove the rust . I use a 20-1 water and phosphoric acid solution which only reacts with the rust . I leave it in the solution for 12-24 hours . Next is a wash and a wire wheel on the grinder to stop oxidization. I mechanically polish all the gears ,shafts and scews  while i am waiting for the paint to dry . Whole process can take about 20 hours but i have got my system down to about 12 . I love doing them and gives me great satisfaction seeing what i started with and what i finished with . The aim is to get a write off and resurrect it so if works for another 70 or so years.   

[SteveOz]

@Tastech G'day Tastech, I couldn't help but notice your beautiful work here. Do you sell reconditioned machines at all? Cheers, Stevo

[Tastech]

4 hours ago, SteveOz said:

@Tastech G'day Tastech, I couldn't help but notice your beautiful work here. Do you sell reconditioned machines at all? Cheers, Stevo

 Hey Steve. Because i spend so much time on the restorations i could never expect to sell them at i price that covers my time and expenses. I can spend between 10 and 20 hours on restoration plus the initial cost of the machine ,I am already about 2 grand in . They would reasonably sell for 1 grand but i am reluctant to take  the hit . Send me a PM with your email and if i see one that i think is a bargain i well send you the details . There was one on EBAY from Tassie a few weeks ago that was going for $450 but i think its gone . It looked like it needed a new blade but the vilh perderson blade is no longer available . I can retro fit a Landis blade but need the machine in my possession to do it  because i have to machine a new shaft and make some mods to the housing . Look for an ESTO or Landis because blades are available still . 

What specifically do you want the machine for ?

This is the tassie one . It says ended not sold so he might still have it 

 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/204480802714

They can be hard to find in Australia but they do turn up . A lot of old cobblers have retired and died so these things are sitting in someones shed somewhere , you just have to find it . Sellers fall into 2 categories they are either asking a ridiculous price for a heap of crap or they go dirt cheap. I know of a RODI skiver ( not a cutter ) in Goulburn  going for $50 but it needs a lot of work . It had a piece of fencing wire where a spring should be .lol. I didn't buy it a few weeks ago but i think i should have just in case i ever need parts . If its still there i might grab it and see what i can do .

Regards 

Tas

[SteveOz]

@Tastech G'day Tas, Thanks for your reply Mate. I fully understand your position here. You've put a lot of work into those machines and it really shows, I'd be reluctant too. Your comment about sellers falling into 2 categories is definitely true and made me laugh. Some sellers of new equipment can be pretty sketchy also. I don't want to buy a new Asian machine, but I may have to. They go for around $1500. I need to start about fossicking a bit I think.

What I'm after, is a small splitter that will take my chrome down to the thickness that I need. I'm only talking 4.5 oz down to 3oz. I can manage to do it hair side up on my pull through splitter but it's a PITA to do so.

I make watch straps out of Chromexcel, veg tan, and roo. I've attached some pics of what I do. I'm not after a project machine at this time. I just need something that works.

Thankyou for the link too, that's kind of you to add that in.

Do you have any pics of the things that you make? I'd sure love to see them.

I'll dm you right now.

Kind regards,

Stevo