Binding Attachment issues...

[MtlBiker]

I'm still very much a beginner sewer but I'm improving every day.  Slowly, mind you, but improving.  I'm running into a problem with installing binding on a small belt pouch I've been working on.  I use a Consew 206RB-5 with swing-away 3/4" binding attachment.  The problem I'm having is that part of my pouch is too thick to pass through the end of the binding attachment and either it jams or pops out of the attachment making the binding and stitch go off the pouch.  I'm trying now to put on the binding more by hand, by first clipping it into place but it's really tough, particularly around the round corners of the pouch (there was no problem with the corners when using the binding attachment).

So my question is are there binding attachments with larger space at the exit point of the attachment?  How do people bind thicker stuff like carpets, etc.?  Is there a better way?

The part of my pouch that gets stuck isn't really all that thick... 2 layers of 1000D Cordura, 2 of 600D and a doubled binding.  My sewing machine has no problem at all with that thickness of material.  It's just the binding attachment that is the problem.

Thanks for any suggestions.

 

[Constabulary]

12 minutes ago, MtlBiker said:

So my question is are there binding attachments with larger space at the exit point of the attachment?

Basically YES but you have to look up the specs. There are usually 3 measures you have to consider when looking for a binding attachment (beside the way the tape is folded)  1: tape width (cut size)  2: tape thickness and 3: mouth width.

On some attachment these values are marked if not ask the seller.

On ebay you sometimes find "wide mouth binders" but still - ask the seller for the mouth width....

 

EDIT:

not sure if this one could help you:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/RAW-TAPE-BINDER-WIDE-MOUTH-for-Typical-GC2605-Cylinder-Arm-machines/322427577045

Edited February 21, 2021 by Constabulary

[MtlBiker]

18 minutes ago, Constabulary said:

Basically YES but you have to look up the specs. There are usually 3 measures you have to consider when looking for a binding attachment (beside the way the tape is folded)  1: tape width (cut size)  2: tape thickness and 3: mouth width.

On some attachment these values are marked if not ask the seller.

On ebay you sometimes find "wide mouth binders" but still - ask the seller for the mouth width....

 

EDIT:

not sure if this one could help you:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/RAW-TAPE-BINDER-WIDE-MOUTH-for-Typical-GC2605-Cylinder-Arm-machines/322427577045

Yes, great, it certainly does help!  Thank you.

It's really hard to measure, but the mouth size on my binder is about 2.6mm.  The one you linked to doesn't specify what the mouth size actually is... just states wide mouth.  And it also says that it doesn't ship to Canada (where I am).  I just checked the Sailrite site and they have one that says will work with material that compresses to about 3.6mm.  As near as I can measure, my assembly including the binding tape is 3.8mm.  The Sailrite one may or may not work.

I'm guessing that there are binding attachments with even wider mouth sizes... for carpets, etc. 

Now that I know they exist, I'l search one out.

I'm not succeeding in applying the binding manually with my little pouch.  SIGH

 

[kgg]

On your regular flatbed binders if the exit isn't wide enough sometimes you can carefully pry the opening wider with a small screwdriver as well as prying the top side of the mouth edge more to the vertical position. I have done this on various sizes of binders using the screwdriver that is normally used for loosening the needle tightening screw and the even smaller one for adjusting the bobbin tension.

[Constabulary]

but the one on ebay shows a picture with a tape measure on the mouth - check the pictures or ask the seller.

[kgg]

Possible alternative sewing method would be to sew up close as you can to the thick section. I think you are using a swing away on the binder.  With the needle fully embedded in the material raise the pressor foot up, swing the binder away from material, lower pressor foot and hand wheel over the hump, swing the binder back in place and continue sewing.

kgg

[nylonRigging]

Binding is always a BIG PIA to learn , 'everyone' has Lot's Of Headaches at first...LOL . and is a pretty in-depth study throughout your entire time sewing .

Single Needle . You should be able to get by with most what your binding with 3/4" tape with,  5.5 or 6 mm  mouth/throat on the Binder.
Your using bias weave tape, and that is good flexible for doing tighter radius . ( Just my feeling ) probably your biggest problems with the way your tape is tracking and feeding to sew, might be the way your Binder is set-up to your machine to materials used. . and just your lack of technique built up doing it . like negotiating the thicker seams or sections that your passing over.

Also .. Not to say that you cant do decent binding with a generic . but there a BIG difference in end product quality, between using generic Binders bought off the internet, and buying custom soldered binding throats . I have always got best results using hand built/soldered setups and the Tape/Binding always tracks the best threw there throats. But generics are Good Learners to build technique.
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On that link posted of ( ngosew ) . I always got positive dealings with them for several years.  if you call or Email NGO sew , they always get back to you. They are down a little S. of me in Salem OR.
mail --> ( info@ngosew.com ) ...  Jack or Liam are the 2 contacts that I have dealt with.
.

[nylonRigging]

10 hours ago, MtlBiker said:

I just checked the Sailrite site and they have one that says will work with material that compresses to about 3.6mm.  As near as I can measure, my assembly including the binding tape is 3.8mm.  The Sailrite one may or may not work.

Sailrite binders are still pretty generic and are nothing special . Your going to want a Right angle to do corners and negotiate radius proper .  So Ask Sailrite if they build a R-angle 3/4" binder with an adjustable mounting bracket for your Consew .

Also take into consideration your foot setup on your machine . Your going to want to adapt the Binder side of the press foot, so the Binder can slip in there close as possible for good position .

-

...edit add: .

I Mic'ed both my Single Needle, and Double Needle binders and they both are around the ( 5.5mm ) in mouth openings . Your upper post say's you are using a 2.6mm opening, and you were getting tight on negotiating over transitions of thickness of added seams ..etc  with the flow of your binding. 

Your 2.8mm sounds ideal for thin edge and a nice finish, but you need bigger for thicker material with good flow up and over spots . Also, I just checked with the single needle and 3/4" tape . and ( for me )  the thickest I would Bind with 3/4" tape with single needle is about 4.5mm thick of material stacked to look good . You can only push 3/4" so far for a wrap and look nice .

This also .. ( Just my opinion )  Use GOOD Quality binding . Your using 3/4" bias weave and type lll binding . The day I quit buying subpar Import crap binding trying to save a Dollar, and 100% moved to good US milled product, was the smartest thing I ever did . The majority of import is hideously out of Spec. it's CRAP that does not track and flow , it causes more headache that the worth of saving a few dollars over Quality binding.

.

Edited February 22, 2021 by nylonRigging

[Kcstott]

Thanks for topic. following as I may need to get a binding attachment in the future and I don't have a bloody clue about these things. 

[Wizcrafts]

I'm not sure, but around 1995 I think I bought 1.25 inch wide edge bias tape from Cansew for use on road workers' safety vests. It was top quality tape. The double fold binder had to be custom made for the work at hand. It was a right angle swing away binder. The binder worked flawlessly in conjunction with a left toe presser foot and a shortened wider inside foot. The feet worked fine on the standard sewn areas and the binder could be swung in and out as required. The parts and tape weren't cheap, but produced professional results. I also purchased a revolving bias tape tray that clamped onto the edge of the table. Taking the load off the tape improves the feeding through the attachment.