Members TomE Posted March 11, 2021 Members Report Posted March 11, 2021 Completed my first halter and would appreciate some advice. I'm having difficulty keeping the stitches uniform next to the hardware, especially when overstitching at the start a stitch line. I am using a double presser foot on a Cobra Class 4 machine with the standard plate and feed dog. The straps are 2 -3 thicknesses of 9 oz veg tan. Adding a welt/wedge to ease the transition helps but I still have trouble maintaining consistent stitch lengths near the ends of the straps. Any tips or tricks? Also, Tan Kote is causing a yellow discoloration of the thread (white 277 bonded nylon). I am using Fiebing's leather stain then oiling with olive oil, and applying Tan Kote after stitching. Does the Fiebing's pro dye eliminate bleeding of pigment? I like the satin finish of Tan Kote but it acts like a solvent and lifts pigment out of the leather. Any ideas? Quote
Members Goldshot Ron Posted March 11, 2021 Members Report Posted March 11, 2021 Tom, Your stitching looks fine to me for a first attempt, it just takes practice. Three rows of stitching is a little overkill however. On most of my halters I put on an adjustable chin strap instead of a fixed one like yours. Type of oil is a preference: olive vs. neatsfoot. I use Oakwood Leather Conditioner, and hand rub it into the leather and creases. When it dries, it can be buffed for a shine. I don't use Tan Kote on tack or saddles; but, no matter what you use after stitching, your white thread will tend to yellow. Nice looking halter, Ron Quote
Members JayEhl Posted March 11, 2021 Members Report Posted March 11, 2021 I don't know anything about horse tacks and such but I think it looks very nice. Maybe the three rows of stitches may be a bit odd, but what do i know? I love this site! ~JL Quote
Members jcuk Posted March 11, 2021 Members Report Posted March 11, 2021 (edited) Looks good for a first attempt, on the three rows of stitching a lot of top Thoroughbred studs and racing stables around the world prefer their head collars/halters made this way. Sorry cannot help you with the machine stitching of it as i hand stitch all mine the rule of thumb is stitch as close to the hardware as you can, a well stitched one should be able the stand up on its own not collapse on its self. Sorry just remembered i have machined stitched one came out ok but still prefer to hand stitch them. Helps this helps JCUK Edited March 11, 2021 by jcuk Quote
Members TomE Posted March 11, 2021 Author Members Report Posted March 11, 2021 4 hours ago, Goldshot Ron said: Tom, Your stitching looks fine to me for a first attempt, it just takes practice. Three rows of stitching is a little overkill however. On most of my halters I put on an adjustable chin strap instead of a fixed one like yours. Type of oil is a preference: olive vs. neatsfoot. I use Oakwood Leather Conditioner, and hand rub it into the leather and creases. When it dries, it can be buffed for a shine. I don't use Tan Kote on tack or saddles; but, no matter what you use after stitching, your white thread will tend to yellow. Nice looking halter, Ron Thank you, Ron. I'll keep practicing to get more consistent feeding as I approach the hardware. I will look into Oakwood. I have Bick 4 and Aussie conditioner but was unsure if they are adequate for waterproofing tack. 3 hours ago, jcuk said: Looks good for a first attempt, on the three rows of stitching a lot of top Thoroughbred studs and racing stables around the world prefer their head collars/halters made this way. Sorry cannot help you with the machine stitching of it as i hand stitch all mine the rule of thumb is stitch as close to the hardware as you can, a well stitched one should be able the stand up on its own not collapse on its self. Sorry just remembered i have machined stitched one came out ok but still prefer to hand stitch them. Helps this helps JCUK Thanks JCUK. Triple stitching is also a thing in the sport horse world. My hand stitching leaves something to be desired but I enjoy the process and aim to improve What type of thread do you use for hand sewing halters? Quote
Members Goldshot Ron Posted March 12, 2021 Members Report Posted March 12, 2021 Well, I stand corrected on the number of stitch rows. I went back through my photos of halters and repairs; and, many of them were 3 rows. I also make halter bridles for my mule friends, but they are lighter weight and my stitching is just around the perimeter. Anyway, you're on a good with your first halter. Quote
Members rdl123 Posted March 12, 2021 Members Report Posted March 12, 2021 I use the same sewing machine make / model and have experienced the same thing - Basically as the leather thickness increases - The stitch length decreases. What I have done lately is start sewing with a lot of 'spare' thread hanging out creating a long 'tail'. I start sewing with the machine four or so stiches from the hardware or wherever the piece gets thick - I then go back and hand stitch to the end of the piece using the extra long tails I left when I started machine sewing. I get the best results this way. Takes a little longer - But if I really want it to turn out perfect that's what I do. I'd say your halter looks very tidy though! Ron L Quote
Members TomE Posted March 12, 2021 Author Members Report Posted March 12, 2021 1 hour ago, rdl123 said: I use the same sewing machine make / model and have experienced the same thing - Basically as the leather thickness increases - The stitch length decreases. What I have done lately is start sewing with a lot of 'spare' thread hanging out creating a long 'tail'. I start sewing with the machine four or so stiches from the hardware or wherever the piece gets thick - I then go back and hand stitch to the end of the piece using the extra long tails I left when I started machine sewing. I get the best results this way. Takes a little longer - But if I really want it to turn out perfect that's what I do. I'd say your halter looks very tidy though! Ron L Thanks, Ron. That's a creative solution that takes advantage of the flexibility of hand sewing to finesse stitch lengths, and I can stitch even closer to the hardware than with machine stitching alone. I will try it out. I did hand stitch the ends of the throat strap round and the buckle straps with 277 bonded nylon to match. I ended up waxing the bonded thread to prevent twisting and bunching as I pulled up the stitches. I tried the holster plate and stirrup plate to stitch close to the buckle but decided hand sewing was the best solution. Quote
Members jcuk Posted March 12, 2021 Members Report Posted March 12, 2021 19 hours ago, TomE said: Thank you, Ron. I'll keep practicing to get more consistent feeding as I approach the hardware. I will look into Oakwood. I have Bick 4 and Aussie conditioner but was unsure if they are adequate for waterproofing tack. Thanks JCUK. Triple stitching is also a thing in the sport horse world. My hand stitching leaves something to be desired but I enjoy the process and aim to improve What type of thread do you use for hand sewing halters? This is what i use. https://www.abbeyengland.com/linen-thread-18-4-somac-5925.html JCUK Quote
Members TomE Posted March 12, 2021 Author Members Report Posted March 12, 2021 16 minutes ago, jcuk said: This is what i use. https://www.abbeyengland.com/linen-thread-18-4-somac-5925.html JCUK Thanks, JCUK. You are the real deal. Would enjoy seeing your work. Quote
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