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I am having a terrible time with stitches. pics attached. any ideas. When I adjusted the tension disk - looser or tighter - the bottom stitch remains the same. No difference.

machine kobe 1341

 

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Posted (edited)

@pattysoup

It is uncool to inject a totally unrelated question into somebody else's ongoing topic. In this case, you entered a discussion about a Landis 3 needle and awl machine with a question about an entirely different type of machine. I have split it into a new topic. Although your brand of machine is mostly unknown to many of us here, the model number suggests that it's a clone of a Juki LS-1341.

Upon looking at your photos my first thought is that your needle size is too small for the thread. It is also possible that the machine cannot properly handle the size of thread you are trying to use. Please fill in the blanks of the needle and thread sizes and show a picture of how you have threaded the machine.

Edited by Wizcrafts
I corrected the model number.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

Posted

The Kobe LS-1341you have is a clone of the older Juki LS-341. I have a couple of questions that may narrow down the problem.

1) What size of thread are you using for the top and in the bobbin. It appears to be V138 or V207 for the top thread. I am going to assume it is V207 on top and V138 in the bobbin as the bobbin thread appears to be smaller. For V207 thread the minimum needle needs to be a 135x17 #24 needle in fabric or 135x16 #24 in leather. But you may have to move up to a #25 needle in sticky or thick stuff, which your machine is not rated to accommodate. If the needle doesn't make a large enough hole to haul the top thread and up back up you can get the straight bobbin line. 

2) Top tension and thread path. If possible could you post a detail photo('s) from the top of the spool to the eye of the needle.

3) Bobbin tension not properly set. Have you done the bobbin drop test? Your machine is only rated for V138 in the bobbin.

4) Presser foot tension may need to adjusted slightly.

As a note I run V138 top and in the bobbin in my Kobe LS-1341 most of the time.

kgg

 

Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

Posted (edited)

Those loops at the bottom indicate to me that the thread snags somewhere during the stich cycle and the machine never gets a chance to pull the knot tight. Usually that has to do with either hook timing, burrs, or the bobbin case opener function.

Double-check your thread path and do a few very slow hand-turned stitches while observing how the thread gets wrapped around the hook. If the thread snaps or snags anywhere, that’s what you need to fix. If the machines pulls more thread form the spool in the middle of the stitch cycle, that’s a sure sign of trouble. The machine should ONLY pull thread form the spool when the thread take-up lever is at the very top of its movement.

 

Edited by Uwe

Uwe (pronounced "OOH-vuh" )

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Posted

Although my fellow colleagues above know far more about various sewing machines than I ever will, I have a question I would like to interject.  I could be way off base here, but are you sure you are adjusting your tension discs and not the switch length dial?  The reason I ask is, when looking at your photos, I see that the stitch length is changing not the tension?  Just an observation.

Posted

When the stitch length gets shorter and bottom thread looks like that I tend to think the bobbin tension (or binding somewhere in the bobbin thread path) is so tight it’s preventing the material from feeding correctly.  

Posted

Thank you for the photo's on the thread path.

What I see:

i) In the first photo you are missing the felt pad that holes the thread against the back part of the squareish guide just before the thread goes down to the needle guide. Lost of tension at that location of top thread.

ii) This is I think your main problem. You say you are using a "125 size 20 135 x 17 DP x17 " the needle needs to be a #23 needle for V138 or if the material is sticky or tough you need a #24 needle. The needle hole is just to small to pull the top back up with the additional V138 bobbin thread so it lays flat. The #20 needle is good for V92 thread.

As a note the easiest way to make sure the top thread is seated as far down in between the main tension disc's as possible is to have the needle up to it's highest point away from the feed dog and then rise the pressor foot up and lock it by using the pressor foot lever at the rear of the machine so the tension discs release from each other then thread top thread through. Sometimes the thread may look like it is between the discs but isn't seated right in the middle of them.

kgg

Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

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Posted

Agree with KGG - try larger needles sizes!

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

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Posted
On 3/17/2021 at 11:09 PM, Wizcrafts said:

Upon looking at your photos my first thought is that your needle size is too small for the thread.

I still believe this to be true.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

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