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Posted

Finished this customer project this weekend. Tried something different and went with dye for the edges instead of the Uniters/Fenice paint I usually use. I’m a pretty happy with the results just wish I could have got some better pictures. 

Wallet is fully lined 0.6mm burgundy buttero hand stitched with 0.45mm black waxed linen thread spaced at 3.38mm edges are finished and angelus jet black alcohol dye.

From the raw edge I planed first to square everything up then sanded with 200/600/1000/2000 grit sandpaper burnishing with tokenole in between grits to keep the fibres down then dyed and burnished once more then a light coat of wax was applied. I feel like my edges could have came out better but I think for my first attempt it was a success. 

comments and critiques always welcome 

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Posted

As usual, nice work Sir!

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Posted

Absolutely stunning piece!

Please pardon my ignorance, I am new to leatherworking. Two questions:

  1. When you say "fully lined" is it lined with more leather, or else, what have you lined it with? It's just so seamless, the only thing I can think is that you've placed two pieces of leather, flesh side together and sewn them to be "one piece" so that you can't see any of the flesh, only the grain; is that correct?
  2. If that is correct, how did you get the bottom center to stay as one without stitching? Is it just glued there, and then burnished?
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Posted
50 minutes ago, battlemunky said:

As usual, nice work Sir!

thanks brother !

34 minutes ago, ThatTallChick said:

Absolutely stunning piece!

Please pardon my ignorance, I am new to leatherworking. Two questions:

  1. When you say "fully lined" is it lined with more leather, or else, what have you lined it with? It's just so seamless, the only thing I can think is that you've placed two pieces of leather, flesh side together and sewn them to be "one piece" so that you can't see any of the flesh, only the grain; is that correct?
  2. If that is correct, how did you get the bottom center to stay as one without stitching? Is it just glued there, and then burnished?

Thank you !!

please ask as many questions as possible. my knowledge very is limited as im self taught and i pretty much just regurgitate what i see online lol...

yes when i say fully lined i mean that its 2 pieces of leather glued together so no flesh is showing.

the bottom center is just glued (as well as the rest of the wallet) with weldwood contact cement. i haven't had any problems with my wallet panels coming apart on this section

although i have been think about stitching all the way across so i might have to start just as a fail safe.

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Posted
15 hours ago, CastleLeatherWorks said:

please ask as many questions as possible. my knowledge very is limited as im self taught and i pretty much just regurgitate what i see online lol...

yes when i say fully lined i mean that its 2 pieces of leather glued together so no flesh is showing.

the bottom center is just glued (as well as the rest of the wallet) with weldwood contact cement. i haven't had any problems with my wallet panels coming apart on this section

although i have been think about stitching all the way across so i might have to start just as a fail safe.

Okay good to know, thank you! Also, how did you apply your dye? It looks so clean and solid, like one solid colour!

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Posted
Just now, ThatTallChick said:

Okay good to know, thank you! Also, how did you apply your dye? It looks so clean and solid, like one solid colour!

very carefully and with a Q-tip.. if you're not careful the dye will seep over the edge so practice is recommended.

so after i worked my way through the different grits of sand paper making sure my edge is as smooth and flat as possible

i re-sand with 2000 grit and apply the dye to the open grain before re applying the tokenole and burnishing with a canvas to seal it up.

there is probably a better way to do it..

i seen some makers on instagram finishing their edges with dye so this was my attempt... i think with some more practice i can refine and simplify it :thumbsup:

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Posted
48 minutes ago, CastleLeatherWorks said:

very carefully and with a Q-tip.. if you're not careful the dye will seep over the edge so practice is recommended.

so after i worked my way through the different grits of sand paper making sure my edge is as smooth and flat as possible

i re-sand with 2000 grit and apply the dye to the open grain before re applying the tokenole and burnishing with a canvas to seal it up.

there is probably a better way to do it..

i seen some makers on instagram finishing their edges with dye so this was my attempt... i think with some more practice i can refine and simplify it :thumbsup:

WOW! Okay I had no idea buttero just came that colour, so I got a bit confused- that's really neat, I'll have to look more into this buttero stuff, it comes in so many colours and I have so many questions- I wonder how they get it these vibrant colours, they're so solid!

Your edges look great, I definitely have to pick up this tokenole I keep hearing so much about, and try burnishing with canvas instead of the wood edge slicker. I was using pieces of jeans for a few test pieces but found it was dying my leather blue (I feel like that may mean it wasn't authentic denim but who knows). Very awesome, thank you so much for answering all my questions!

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Posted

Nicely done.

 

 

Doug

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Posted

1,  You used .6 leather x 2 = 1.2 mm, correct?

2,  Is that center piece just hanging there with glue?  No stitching at all? 

3,  Are there no hidden pockets behind the card holders? 

4,  Where are you thinking about stitching across? 

5,  Is there a reason that you didn't carry the stitching around the top corners?

5,  Did you line the card slots?

Lately I've been dicking around making some wallets with Buttero and Arlan chevre (sounds fancier than goat).  It's pretty dainty work.  I use some Saphir Medaille d’Or wax and spit shine it and then buff with a horse hair brush.  It really brings out the color on the Buttero.

On 3/23/2021 at 8:15 AM, ThatTallChick said:

please ask as many questions as possible. my knowledge very is limited as im self taught and i pretty much just regurgitate what i see online lol...

yes when i say fully lined i mean that its 2 pieces of leather glued together so no flesh is showing.

the bottom center is just glued (as well as the rest of the wallet) with weldwood contact cement. i haven't had any problems with my wallet panels coming apart on this section

although i have been think about stitching all the way across so i might have to start just as a fail safe.

 

@mike02130  Instagram

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