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Posted
On 4/14/2021 at 3:18 AM, Lokahi said:

I'm just...really at a loss at this point. 

I looked at your photo's and I would suggest a couple of things to try that may or may not work.

i) remove thread from your needle back to the vertical guide just before the tensioning discs.

ii) lock the pressor foot in upper position and retread. This will release tension on the two discs. The discs now should be slack and movable. Rethread as you did before. Now you will assured the thread is in as far as it can go between the tensioner discs as possible.

iii) when you have threaded the needle unlock the pressor foot from the up position. Test drive and see if that makes a difference.

If not the discs may have a thread path worn in them. So I would turn the very first guide from the vertical position to a horizontal position and thread like a Juki 1541 which has the first guide in the horizontal position. This would change the position of the thread through the discs.

kgg

 

Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

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Posted

Wondering did this get resolved? Thread pulling out of the bobbin case properly sounds good. Different things happen when under power. Curious if stitching looks identical when turning the wheel by hand. Something is pulling that upper thread too much  or making it turn loose. During the cycle, does the foot coming up against the presser foot spring, causing the spring to bend - also disengage the upper tension? If the upper tension mechanism is set so that it is touchy that could be kicking the discs loose. This is a pretty far out there possibility, but can happen.

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Posted (edited)

If the foot lifts too high on an industrial machine it will release the tension.  Doesn't matter if it is caused by your lifter or the material you are sewing. Can you post pictures of your foot and the bushings above it in the up and down position?   Can you sew thinner with no problems?

Edited by bj139
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Posted

two things.  Looks like you are going around the pin that holds the tension discs in place.  DO NOT go around the that pin.  That alone will effect tension.  Also, the smallest needle you can use with #138 thread is a 22/140.    Do not use #21 with #138 thread on top.

glenn

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Posted

Wondering if the OP ever resolved this problem with 138 in the bobbin?  I'm having the same challenge on my 206RB-1 and have gone over all the recommendations from above and have not had any success.

  • 2 weeks later...
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Posted

Threading around the pin in the tension wears a groove in the pin that will shred thread. Route the thread over the top of the tension, then under the check spring assembly, and over the tab that sticks through the hole at the bottom left of the front plate. Also make sure the check spring is adjusted so the thread never goes slack between the take up lever and the check spring.

  • 5 months later...
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Posted
On 6/13/2021 at 2:18 PM, LindanHotAir said:

Threading around the pin in the tension wears a groove in the pin that will shred thread. Route the thread over the top of the tension, then under the check spring assembly, and over the tab that sticks through the hole at the bottom left of the front plate. Also make sure the check spring is adjusted so the thread never goes slack between the take up lever and the check spring.

Consew 206RB-1 I just acquired has a worn tensioner pin from routing the thread around it. 
8297AB03-BD65-44D7-8882-4170E1B99CC5.jpeg.ca8b75fca8fe9ef6a9b1e5874f5feb33.jpeg

  • 7 months later...
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Posted

I was having same problem with 206RB where the bobbin thread wouldn’t pull up no matter how tight the top tension.  I was using a 22 needle with 138 bonded nylon.  The problem was solved with a 24 needle.  I was able to turn the top tension way back down and had an even stitch.  I’m planning to try some 23s and hopefully settle on them for 138 thread.

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Posted

Schmetz has a new needle out that has bigger eyes in it.  Now can sew #138 with a 21 needle!!!!

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Posted
On 8/2/2022 at 2:35 AM, MDF45 said:

The problem was solved with a 24 needle.  I was able to turn the top tension way back down and had an even stitch.  I’m planning to try some 23s and hopefully settle on them for 138 thread.

I usually use a #23 needle with #138 thread, top and bottom.

2 minutes ago, shoepatcher said:

Schmetz has a new needle out that has bigger eyes in it.  Now can sew #138 with a 21 needle!!!!

Link please!

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

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