What to do first

[bigsig11010]

Working on my first real project. A saddle bag style purse bag. Im going to sew it on my cowboy outlaw. Question is before I begin to sew should I bevel the edges and or skive or shave the edges? Or to I mark my stitching groove stitch then do the edges?

[caressofsteel]

Hello bigsig11010,

You do not say what type of leather you are using, but assuming vegetable tan leather, here is what I do:

I will sand the edges of the leather using a Dremel, 320 grit drum sander to get the edges even.

Then I mark the stitch lines at 3mm for linings or 4mm for thicker leather using a wing compass. I like to mark the stitch lines at this point, before the edges are beveled, because there is less chance of the tool slipping off the edge. After the stitch lines are marked, then I will bevel the edges. Before the final burnishing, I go over the edges with a 600 grit drum sander. I don't skive the edges because I mainly make holsters, and I want them full strength at the edge.

Hope this helps and good luck. Let us know how it turns out.

 

[Dwight]

Like caressofsteel . . . I get my edges done first . . . on a small Harbor Freight belt sander.

When the edges are sanded and straight I use my stitch groover . . . make the groove.

I then stitch before I bevel . . . as it gives my sewing machine a better surface on which to run.  Sometimes there can be a softer piece or softer place in the leather and it will let the machine move slightly . . . and it aggravates me to no end to look at a belt or holster I just sewed up . . . and one or two stitches are out of line.  It does not happen often . . . but waiting to bevel . . . takes away some of that opportunity if you are sewing on a machine.

I then bevel . . . dye the project . . . burnish the edges . . . and final coat finish.  Sometimes coming back and burnishing the edges again for a final shine.

May God bless,

Dwight

[bigsig11010]

Yes 6-7 oz veg tan. I definitely should have thought about sanding. My cutting kinda looks like a 4 yr old with safety scissors.  

[bigsig11010]

With leather this thick should I put inside to inside and do an exposed stitch or outside to outside then turn it back out?

[garypl]

I believe it will be impossible to turn leather this thick inside out.  It looks like veg tan and it does not lend itself to this type of construction.  You need leather with a very soft temper to turn inside out after stitching.

[Rahere]

You could skive to half thickness, and glue. Experiment with edge lacing rather than sewing on some scrap. I sometimes dye before edge grooving, because the dye is only surface the natural tan comes through creating a clearly-defined stitch line. Be careful not to glue to the edge or it'll show in the burnishing. Get a Dremel burnishing set from Proops on Etsy.

[bigsig11010]

Ive sanded the edges and am ready to start sewing. On the small parts that attach on the front of the bag should I go ahead and bevel and burnish the edges on those before I sew them onto the flap of the bag? I cant imagine how to burnish the edges on those once attached without marking up the surrounding area.  Im wondering how much the look of the small parts will change and make them stick out from the rest of the bag. Since I cut them by hand I have to do somthing or they will look tacky.