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My burnisher came from Amazon for Euro 20 with a groover and 4 chisels and it works if I want to spend the elbow grease (I'm tempted to find a grooved disk for my battery drill...) In a book I found the advice of using ballistic nylon for rubbing the edges (and I remember reading somewhere about polishing shoes with nylon tights or stockings).

So, bearing in mind that I'm a beginner as well, I think a burnisher need not be part of the first tools in one box, and a cheap one will do. Or a homemade one.

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Posted
1 hour ago, Klara said:

My burnisher came from Amazon for Euro 20 with a groover and 4 chisels and it works if I want to spend the elbow grease (I'm tempted to find a grooved disk for my battery drill...) In a book I found the advice of using ballistic nylon for rubbing the edges (and I remember reading somewhere about polishing shoes with nylon tights or stockings).

So, bearing in mind that I'm a beginner as well, I think a burnisher need not be part of the first tools in one box, and a cheap one will do. Or a homemade one.

Merci beaucoup Klara!  I found a burnisher at Tandy Leather Canada's website for $13.50, plus some veg tan leather that I can experiment with.  Are you sewing leather by hand or machine?  Do you need a groover either way?  Or only for when sewing by hand?

Interesting idea though about using ballistic nylon for polishing the edges.  I'll give that a try also.

There must be such grooved discs available for dremel tools.  Sounds like it would make the job much easier.

Cheers!

 

Current machines: Janome HD3000 and Skyline S5, Consew 206RB-5, Singer Profinish serger, Techsew 2750 PRO, Sailrite LSZ-1 Premium, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

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Posted
1 hour ago, MtlBiker said:

There must be such grooved discs available for dremel tools.  Sounds like it would make the job much easier.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333930064942?epid=20045199299&hash=item4dbfc86c2e:g:p-gAAOSwbWZgWJLP

For straight sections I use this, have been for a long time, a scrap of beech with a groove in it

my old block slicker, 01LWs.jpg

I also have a couple of carrot shaped slickers

I've also used a piece of denim or a piece of linen in my fingers

Before you set out to do it 'easier' learn what it is you are doing

 

Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..

  • CFM
Posted

I use old porcelain electrical insulators. Different companies had different sizes of grooves for the wire. They work great.

Hoka Hey! Today, tomorrow, next week, what does it matter?

  • CFM
Posted

This is what I have:

http://www.proedgeburnishers.com/hand-burnishers.html

I got that one because it's a premium burnisher and I like having premium tools I don't have to buy ever again (yeah, yeah, I know even the best tools can still break or go missing, but well cared for they last a lifetime), because it's got many grooves for different weights, and because Tandy messed up when I ordered their slicker and instead of a hand burnisher they sent me a burnishing ring with only two grooves (WTH).

I use Tokonole for burnisher compound. Perfect pairing. The pouch I posted pics of above was burnished with that cocobolo burnisher and Tokonole.

I've used denim and canvas to burnish, but I prefer the slicker. It's just... slicker!

  • CFM
Posted (edited)
15 hours ago, MtlBiker said:

You're right!  I didn't know or understand the difference between milled leather and non-milled.  And the one I ordered has a soft temper.  I guess I'll have to place another order, before even receiving the first.

Very nice pouch you made there!  Is it lined?  I think I see stitching around the edge of the flap.  Were you machine or hand stitching?  It looks very good.

And I'll have to also order some veg tanned leather so that I can mould it.  Do I have it right that first I mould, then maybe trim to the right size to fit the back piece, then dye it, stitch it, and finish by burnishing the edges?  Or have I got that wrong?

Thanks again for your kind help.

 

Thankee.

No, it's not lined, hence you can see the stitches on the outside of the gussets that hold in place the holders for the tamper and cleaners:

Casual_pouch--02.jpg.bb424f815c39ff30bca63c81e1944d46.jpg

 

It's all hand-stitching. I don't own a machine, and I prefer hand-stitching because of the advantages the hand stitch has over the lock stitch: durability and ease of repair.

lock-stitch-vs-hand-stitch.jpg

It does take longer, though. But I find hand-stitching relaxing, so there's that too. :yes:

 

RE: wet moulding. I haven't done enough that I would feel confident to offer suggestions. I've done a few projects for myself (Zippo sleeve, end sleeves for my phone to cover the cameras for privacy...), but nothing sellable yet. I've also haven't dabbled with dyes: I buy my leather in the colour and weight a project requires.

I've found these ones kinda useful/interesting, though:

 

This bloke is dyeing in addition to moulding, so you might find it useful:

 

I'd recommend watching quite a few of the videos from the first link (Hahns Atelier): he's got all kinds of different projects, provides the info on what he uses, and he does both hand- and machine-stitching.

Edited by Hardrada
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Posted
12 hours ago, MtlBiker said:

Merci beaucoup Klara!  I found a burnisher at Tandy Leather Canada's website for $13.50, plus some veg tan leather that I can experiment with.  Are you sewing leather by hand or machine?  Do you need a groover either way?  Or only for when sewing by hand?

Interesting idea though about using ballistic nylon for polishing the edges.  I'll give that a try also.

There must be such grooved discs available for dremel tools.  Sounds like it would make the job much easier.

Cheers!

 

I'm sewing by hand. The groover is for marking the line where you then set the chisel or pricking iron. As far as I know you don't use either for machine sewing so that's a tool you don't need to buy. :)

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Posted
11 hours ago, fredk said:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333930064942?epid=20045199299&hash=item4dbfc86c2e:g:p-gAAOSwbWZgWJLP

...

Before you set out to do it 'easier' learn what it is you are doing

 

Thanks for the link! 

The point of burnishing is smoothing down the leather "fibres", glueing them together and polishing the edges to make them look better for longer, isn't it? So the way I see it, the tool isn't all that important as it's not precision work, unlike for example cutting. 

A long time ago, in a general tool forum, I read the advice that in order to spend one's money wisely one should buy the high-quality tools where precision matters. An electric jigsaw that doesn't cut straight is a problem. An orbital sander that wobbles a bit more in one direction not really.

Found a nice description of burnishing: https://www.goldbarkleather.com/sourceblog/2015/12/29/a-basic-guide-to-burnishing

Posted
8 hours ago, Hardrada said:

This is what I have:

http://www.proedgeburnishers.com/hand-burnishers.html

I got that one because it's a premium burnisher and I like having premium tools I don't have to buy ever again (yeah, yeah, I know even the best tools can still break or go missing, but well cared for they last a lifetime), because it's got many grooves for different weights, and because Tandy messed up when I ordered their slicker and instead of a hand burnisher they sent me a burnishing ring with only two grooves (WTH).

I use Tokonole for burnisher compound. Perfect pairing. The pouch I posted pics of above was burnished with that cocobolo burnisher and Tokonole.

I've used denim and canvas to burnish, but I prefer the slicker. It's just... slicker!

Before getting your reply, yesterday I ordered the burnishing tool from Tandy (Canada) as well as what they call "TandyPro Burnishing Solution".  I've got to start somewhere.

Current machines: Janome HD3000 and Skyline S5, Consew 206RB-5, Singer Profinish serger, Techsew 2750 PRO, Sailrite LSZ-1 Premium, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

Posted
8 hours ago, Hardrada said:

Thankee.

No, it's not lined, hence you can see the stitches on the outside of the gussets that hold in place the holders for the tamper and cleaners:

It's all hand-stitching. I don't own a machine, and I prefer hand-stitching because of the advantages the hand stitch has over the lock stitch: durability and ease of repair.

It does take longer, though. But I find hand-stitching relaxing, so there's that too. :yes:

 

RE: wet moulding. I haven't done enough that I would feel confident to offer suggestions. I've done a few projects for myself (Zippo sleeve, end sleeves for my phone to cover the cameras for privacy...), but nothing sellable yet. I've also haven't dabbled with dyes: I buy my leather in the colour and weight a project requires.

I've found these ones kinda useful/interesting, though:

 

This bloke is dyeing in addition to moulding, so you might find it useful:

 

I'd recommend watching quite a few of the videos from the first link (Hahns Atelier): he's got all kinds of different projects, provides the info on what he uses, and he does both hand- and machine-stitching.

Most helpful reply!  Thanks very much. 

On the top edge of the front piece of your pouch (the one hidden by the closed flap) did you do anything to finish the edge?  Just edge polish (if that) or something else?  And if you did edge polish that top edge, did you do it before sewing it onto the gusset?  I'd imagine it could be very difficult to polish that edge once the pouch is fully assembled.

I'll certainly check out those videos.  Thanks again.

 

Current machines: Janome HD3000 and Skyline S5, Consew 206RB-5, Singer Profinish serger, Techsew 2750 PRO, Sailrite LSZ-1 Premium, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

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