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Posted

I’m getting the cheap left zipper foot from eBay.

I’ll let you know how that goes…

Chipper

  • 2 months later...
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Posted

Hi Everyone!

Bet you thought I went away, huh?  But, nope!

Has been a while, but I’m back!  I’ve learned a lot about my LS-1 Sailrite Ultrafeed disguised as a Leatherwork!  I have made some things, but not as many as I would like due to financial constraints!

I have the machine humming along, but for anyone interested, this machine is NOT for the faint of heart.  It requires readjustment every time you change projects.  Maybe that’s normal, but I’m kind of new to sewing as well so there was a learning curve!

When I got my machine it was fine!  Then I made a repair where I knocked several things out of adjustment!  Since there were multiple items it was a bit tricky to get tight.  
 

Ended up being the travel height of the walking foot and the back and forth range of motion as well as the Needle Bar Height.

This all made since because when doing the repair I FORCED the assembly under the foot with alL my strength and done things moved or loosened.  I got it working pretty good!

I will be making 2 tote bags out of the Side of S.B. Nubuck Leather I got for Christmas!  I have the preliminary cuts done.

If anyone has ANY questions about Sailrite’s Leatherwok I would be happy to answer to the best of my ability!

Chipper

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Posted (edited)

I looked into the Sailrite LW and it looks pretty spiffy and their support sure is highly praised.  But when I discovered that you can get a new compound feed industrial for the same $ (or less),  I moved on with my search.  This isn't intended to take away from Sailrite in any way, as service and support have real value.  Just adding another factoid to the discussion.

Edited by MainiacMatt
  • 1 month later...
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Posted

I’ve had the LW a little over a year now. Works good, but I get tired of adjusting the tension every new project.
Also, had to re-adjust the tension on the two drive belts. What a mess. I had to take the work table top off the stand so that I could get to the idler pulley adjustment, and to get to the motor mount bolt. Not an easy job.

  • 4 weeks later...
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Posted
On 10/16/2022 at 9:41 PM, kgg said:

Keep in mind that no one machine will do everything. The Leatherwork (~$1400 usd) which is a flatbed that is basically a Sailrite LS-1 straight stitch machine put into a short table with a nice 12 coil servo motor. That machine can handle up to a #20 needle so the max size of thread for that size of needle is V92. These portable sewing machines were originally designed as a on board sail cloth repair machine. It probably can sew up to a max thickness of 1/4" of material. They do have there place as all machines do but it would not be my first choice.

Since you are planning on sewing bag type items a cylinder arm machine would I think be a better choice in the Juki LS-341 or Juki LS-1341 class with a flatbed attachment. There are many clones in this class so you will have lots to choose from either in the new or used market.

Buy Once, Cry Once

Plano Mike

kgg

 

kgg

I didn't listen to your advice as closely as I should, especially since I was buying my first machine. The SailRite is a very good sewing machine for horizontal FLAT sewing. For gussets and vertical odd shapes, it just doesn't work. I sold the Leatherwork, and have a Cobra Class 26 on order with Springfield Leather. Thank you for being patient with us newbies and staying the course. I did though research this time based on the starting with what I've enjoyed making over the last 6 years, what I want to make, and input from you experienced makers.

Bought Once, Cried Once

Posted
1 hour ago, PlanoMike said:

I sold the Leatherwork, and have a Cobra Class 26 on order with Springfield Leather.

You should be pleased with the Cobra Class 26 which I think is a class 341 / 1341 machine. With a table attachment you should get the flexibility to be able to do most items. I think we all have bought a machine at some point that really didn't or wasn't capable of doing what we had hoped for.

kgg

 

Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

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Posted
9 hours ago, kgg said:

I think we all have bought a machine at some point that really didn't or wasn't capable of doing what we had hoped for.

Oh how true this is! About 6 months after I began doing leather work, I decided to make a leather vest from a Tandy pattern pack. I didn't have any sewing machines. The Tandy store manager had his Wife's slant needle Singer for sale on consignment and he let me try it on a piece of the leather I was going to use. It proceeded to break the needle upon contact with the leather. He suggested looking for an industrial sewing machine dealer. We looked one up in the Yellow Pages and I headed over there. The dealer sold me a heavy black Singer straight stitch model 96k40 I think, with a table and 1/2 hp clutch motor. That machine managed to sew the flat seams until I got to a third layer. Then it just stayed in that position and sewed through the same hole. I called the dealer and told him what was happening and he told me I needed a walking foot machine. He refused to take back the 96k and told me that the head would fit into the same hole in the table; just move the knee lever activator.

What he called a walking foot was actually a spring loaded follow foot and a light duty model at that. I thought that the follow foot machine was the cat's meow until I tried to sew a double leather belt and a pancake holster with #138 thread. No way, Jose! It took me four more wrong industrial machines before I got an actually qualified leather sewing machine that could sew holsters and double leather belts (gun belts, weightlifter's belts). This was before we had computers and the Internet in every home. All sewing machine purchases came from dealers or private persons who pushed what they had on hand. Now, we have knowledge being shared on this forum and dealers who know what makes a real leather sewing machine that can handle tough work and thick thread.

BTW: The first machine I found that could actually sew thick leather with thick thread was a Union Lockstitch machine. It came along about 3 years after I bought my first industrial sewing machine. Until then, I struggled to sew anything over 1/4 inch and couldn't effectively use #346 thread on anything except a Singer 132k6. Even that machine had trouble maintaining an even stitch length and holding down the leather as the large needle came up. Later on I learned that the 132k6 was meant to sew buffing wheels, not leather.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

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