Restoration of a Vintage Leather Bag

[Silverd]

 

Hello Fellow Leather Workers,

I picked-up a fun project from a client of mine yesterday.  The images attached are of a vintage suite case of sorts, possibly a large Dr. Bag, which appears to have been originally made circa 1950-60s and is in obviously rather poor condition.  Client would like to get it back into a functional state, which I can likely accomplish by replacing the main straps, recovering the carry handles and hand stitching back the failed seams.  Internal condition of the cotton fabric lining is actually very nice aside from some discoloration.  I didn't include internal photos as I will not be doing any work to it at this point.   Cosmetically,  \the client is also interested in having the hardware polished and if possible, the entire case repainted in the original color.   

The condition of the main bag leather is marginal.  There is evidence of dry cracking at the corners, which I am hoping can be mitigated through application of leather conditioning products I have used in the past on very old halters and headstalls.  Any suggestions?   I'm thinking I will apply the conditioners first then sand and repaint if I decide to go down that path.   This is similar to how Fiebings suggests leather be conditioned, colored then protected with Tan-Kote as a final step.   

Of all the work, repainting the leather may be the most challenging and the most risky.   If there is someone in the forum who has any experience with this sort of work I would greatly appreciate hearing from you.  All other advice as to the best way to proceed on this project would also be graciously accepted. 

Many Thanks in advance!

Silverd

[fredk]

Before any conditioner, a good wash down with saddle soap

I would certainly replace those handle dees.

In fact I'd replace all the external metal work with brass ones where possible

[YinTx]

That is a neat bag.

I hope you post progress photos, this interests me.  I have ideas, but since I haven't done it, they won't be much help for you.  My concern would be if the straps and handle are in that condition, the body leather can't be far behind, and as such would not have much strength if you were to pull stitches tight, they might pull through?  Photos can be deceiving, having it in hand I am sure tells more of the story.  Polishing the brass shouldn't be too big a deal if the D's are in good condition (not bent/cracked), but they will tarnish over time unless you have a way to recoat them with a clear finish.

YinTx

[Silverd]

Yes, a very cool bag that could have aged more gracefully if only cared for along the way.  I Agree with your concerns re the condition of the leather and stitching ripping through.  I have not had time to take a close enough look to tell yet but I'm hoping  the handles are in as poor of condition as they are because of hand sweat penetration that repeated use may have caused where as the bag leather might be a little better.   Will see soon enough.    Stay tuned for more images as the project progresses.

 

Silverd   

[Silverd]

On 6/24/2021 at 11:00 AM, fredk said:

Before any conditioner, a good wash down with saddle soap

I would certainly replace those handle dees.

In fact I'd replace all the external metal work with brass ones where possible

Saddle Soap is a good idea.  I'll for sure do that!  I agree that the Dees should be replaced.  It appears they are brass plated steel but I have not taken a magnet to them as of yet.  This weekend I'm planning to slowly start in.    The leather connecting the Dees to the main case look to be questionable as well.  And the way the stitching was placed along the top edge creates a perforated tear line...Thats now how the equestrian folks do it for sure.   Unfortunately the inside lining would need to be removed to replace them but I suppose thats the right way to do the restoration.    

 

Silverd

[LatigoAmigo]

4 hours ago, Silverd said:

Saddle Soap is a good idea.  I'll for sure do that! 

You might consider starting with a gentle saddle soap foam like this. It is a kinder version of the paste.

 

[Rahere]

It's not clear from the photo, one of the ends may need replacing because the stitching on the corner's torn the leather out, too. Gets close to Trigger's old broom, at that point.

[fredk]

It is possible to sew in repair patches, But you need to make it look balanced. I once repaired a well loved handbag for a woman. One bottom corner had the leather ripped away, it was not possible to sew it back together as it was,  After discussion with the owner I sewed on a repair patch, but I had to do the other corners as well so the patch disappeared into the over-all look of the bag. I've done the same on new-made medieval style belt pouches and other things.

PS. You say 'repainting'. By this I presume you actually mean 're-dyeing' ? You'd need to clean off any lacquer finish first. For doing that I wash things down with cellulose thinners, aka lacquer thinners. With some dyes manufacturers you can get a dye colour made up to match or you may have to go a bit darker

 

Edited June 26, 2021 by fredk

[Silverd]

It looks like a paint finish is original.  Opaque colored finish I think....

 

Silverd

On 6/25/2021 at 8:15 PM, LatigoAmigo said:

You might consider starting with a gentle saddle soap foam like this. It is a kinder version of the paste.

 

Where do I get this?  Makes sense to use.  

 

Silverd 

[LatigoAmigo]

1 hour ago, Silverd said:

Where do I get this?  Makes sense to use.  

Amazon, of course.

[chrisash]

I was watching Suzi on the repair shop a few months ago making repairs to a leather item and she used a tape  that was made of parchment, very thin and near transparent, but according to her exceptionally strong and flexible, she used it where holes had pulled out stuck to the flesh side. No idea where she got it from

[Rahere]

1 hour ago, chrisash said:

I was watching Suzi on the repair shop a few months ago making repairs to a leather item and she used a tape  that was made of parchment, very thin and near transparent, but according to her exceptionally strong and flexible, she used it where holes had pulled out stuck to the flesh side. No idea where she got it from

Although it's started as 1-3mm skin, it's been stretched down, and so doesn't retain its original strength. It's most specifically not recommended to sew it, and it's highly hydroscopic. She may have used it to stabilise the original leather, so friction holds what are now tabs rather than a solid collagen matrix against the second piece, but it can't be load-bearing as this is. I've been taught how to handle old vellum (I'm researching a European view of the period 1400-1430 on the edge of the Warburg Institute) and wonder what she was about: perhaps it was purely cosmetic.

[Silverd]

My latest concern is the handle anchor straps.   IF they are not up to the task of holding the loaded trunk, then the project is limited to cosmetically restoring the trunk rather than cosmetic and functional restoration.   To accomplish handle anchor strap replacement will require removing the lining to gain access to the back side.  Of course, making new anchor straps will be required then hand sewing them back in.   Notice how the previous leather worker sewed them with a stitch line across the highest stress area just below the Dee Rings.   tsk tsk tsk...Not how I was taught to execute a load bearing connection.

 

Silverd

[Rahere]

So life's not perfect. Mind you, you could stick the entire thing in an ultrasonic bath to release all the glue and start from scratch. No, I didn't think that was a realistic starter...