Wavy Zipper Problem

[RaptorBravo]

I work as a seamstress for a handbag designer and I am having problems with wavy zippers. I use tape to affix the leather to the zipper and sew, careful to not push or pull the leather as I go. I have tried sewing on paper as an attempt to stabilize but am still having a problem. I sew on an old consew industrial that is serviced regularly. See pictures for an example of what I am talking about. Any help would be much appreciated 

[kgg]

2 hours ago, RaptorBravo said:

I have tried sewing on paper as an attempt to stabilize but am still having a problem.

The side pocket zippers seem to be ripple free but the longer top zipper definitely has a pronounced ripple. Is the side material of the zipper cotton or nylon. Are you sewing the sides of the zipper first then installing the slider, please explain your method of installation. 

My six step method:

I usually install buy i) installing the slider on the roll of tape ii) cut more then enough a zipper off the roll so I am then left with a zipper length complete with the slider longer then I need and the zipper teeth are meshed together  iii) I then slide the slider to open the zipper up and then back to re-close the zipper iv) I iron the top side of the closed zipper tape to flatten out any inconsistency in the zippers side tapes v) I then use double sided basting tape on one side of the closed zipper tape to hold the zipper in place for sewing vi) I then install double sided basting tape on the other side to line up the closed zipper with the other side of the material. 

There is probably a better / faster way but it stops me from installing one of the zippers side tapes upside down or miss aligned and it works for me.

kgg

 

[Rahere]

The foot's slipping. Have you tried a walking foot? It often helps with thicker tasks. It hooks a pin on the rear of the foot pillar to drive a second set of dogs on the top layer, rather than just have the foot slide over the surface of the material. Another approach would be to train yourself to only guide the sides of the zipper into place and let it find its own tension. Completely different approaches, of course: I presume you've checked the tread tensions? It might even be worth experimenting with a zip on a piece of scrap so you can see what's happening without the weight of the bag interfering.

 

[kgg]

I forgot to mention that you need to be care that you do not let you pressor foot ride onto the zippers teeth otherwise use a zipper foot. It will mostly depend on the size of the zipper tape and the size of your pressor foot as well as where you need the seam.

kgg

[RockyAussie]

I am thinking that the construction method may not help here. If the zip looks alright until you stitch the sides then it is the method. In case it helps here's a link to one of my video's showing something that may help.-

 

[JayEhl]

Now that is a cool idea.