Burnishing edges have gummy residue

[TangledTreeStudios]

I'm brand new to leather work.  I've created 2 wallets and 3 belts.  My belts I love the edges of after burnishing.  My wallets however have little bits of gummy residue.  It's obviously the rubber cement I'm using to glue them together.  I sand the edges long after assembly and stitching, so the glue has had plenty of time to dry.  Am I not letting the glue dry enough on the individual pieces prior to assembly?  How long do people let their glued pieces dry prior to assembling them?   Thanks!

[mike02130]

You may be using too much glue.  Rubber cement is, well, rubbery.  It doesn't sand, it only stretches.  It is usually used as a temporary glue.  I use Weldwood contact cement which gives one a nice buzz.  I also use Ecostick 1816B which is a water based contact cement.  Seiwa is another brand of glue for leather work.

[TomG]

What Mike said. Weldwood is every bit as good at Barge, from my experience, and half the cost.
Apply to both edges, let set until tacky and then assemble. But, it is not easily repositionable, so make sure all edges line up and then tap the edges lightly with a mallet, or put pressure on them for a while, for best adhesion.
 

[TangledTreeStudios]

Thanks for the tips.  I'm using Renia Aquilim 315.  It's a water based contact cement.  How long do people let their chosen contact cement dry before assembly?

Edited August 12, 2021 by TangledTreeStudios

[Squid61]

Rather than use a set time to decide contact cement is ready for assembly, I use the touch method.  The glue on each surface should be sufficiently dry that it can be touched without sticking to my finger, can be a few to 15 minutes depending on the environmental conditions.  For stitched seams that in use will be under lower stress I use Fiebings Leather Glue, before stitching, for seams that will be under more stress I use Weldwood or S-18 Contact Cement as well as stitching.

[mike02130]

16 minutes ago, TangledTreeStudios said:

Thanks for the tips.  I'm using Renia Aquilim 315.  It's a water based contact cement.  How long do people let their chosen contact cement dry before assembly?

Water based seems to take longer to tack-up than solvent based glues.  The Renia is a popular glue but I don't like it at all.  I really tried to like it, I've experimented with it in a lot of applications.  I seem to always get those gummy snot boogers.  Apply a thin coat to both sides and wait until it dries then assemble. No telling how long of time, maybe 10-20 minutes?  Another thing I don't like is that it is thin and seems to run all over the place.  It is difficult to clean off a glue spreader and I'm always getting it on my fingers.

The best advice is, rather than asking us, experiment with it yourself.

[TangledTreeStudios]

Okay, I'm assembling too quickly I think.  Probably in the 3-5 minute window.  I know if I've accidently brushed it with my finger, it sticks and drags the leather piece wherever my hand was headed.  I'll try waiting 15+ minutes and the touch-test to see if I can get diff results.    Thanks all!

[sbrownn]

3 hours ago, TangledTreeStudios said:

Thanks for the tips.  I'm using Renia Aquilim 315.  It's a water based contact cement.  How long do people let their chosen contact cement dry before assembly?

The Aquilim 315 can be removed from the edge with a wet cloth or by just by rubbing before you finish the edge.

[battlemunky]

You can also use a crepe rubber eraser too. It works on both water and solvent based adhesives. They are a couple of bucks at the hobby store near the drawing stuff or Tandy.

[Dwight]

11 hours ago, TangledTreeStudios said:

Thanks for the tips.  I'm using Renia Aquilim 315.  It's a water based contact cement.  How long do people let their chosen contact cement dry before assembly?

I make 2 piece belts for CHL . . . and holsters of course.  I use Weldwood contact cement exclusively . . . have never EVER had a problem with it in almost 20 years.

I put on a light smooth coat on both pieces . . . usually take a wire brush to any flesh side that is being glued . . . makes it stick better . . . and after the glue is put on I take my heat gun and go over it until I can touch the whole thing and absolutely NONE of it is tacky or sticky.

Put it together . . . I use a roller on my belts and I generally sand the edges and then sew them together . . . then and there.  

Same with the holsters . . .  position it . . . stick em together . . . sand the edges smooth . . . use my stitch groover . . . and sew it.

Key to it all is let the cement or MAKE the cement be DRY before you try to put them together.  If it is still wet . . . it'll not only move . . . but sometimes little gooey globs will sneak out and mess up your edge.  

One thing bad about contact cement . . . if you get it on the finish surface . . .  it WILL NOT TAKE the dye.  That is when I toss it and start over.

Anyway . . . have fun . . . leather working is good for the soul.

May God bless,

Dwight

[TangledTreeStudios]

11 minutes ago, Dwight said:

I make 2 piece belts for CHL . . . and holsters of course.  I use Weldwood contact cement exclusively . . . have never EVER had a problem with it in almost 20 years.

I put on a light smooth coat on both pieces . . . usually take a wire brush to any flesh side that is being glued . . . makes it stick better . . . and after the glue is put on I take my heat gun and go over it until I can touch the whole thing and absolutely NONE of it is tacky or sticky.

Put it together . . . I use a roller on my belts and I generally sand the edges and then sew them together . . . then and there.  

Same with the holsters . . .  position it . . . stick em together . . . sand the edges smooth . . . use my stitch groover . . . and sew it.

Key to it all is let the cement or MAKE the cement be DRY before you try to put them together.  If it is still wet . . . it'll not only move . . . but sometimes little gooey globs will sneak out and mess up your edge.  

One thing bad about contact cement . . . if you get it on the finish surface . . .  it WILL NOT TAKE the dye.  That is when I toss it and start over.

Anyway . . . have fun . . . leather working is good for the soul.

May God bless,

Dwight

That's awesome Dwight!  Thanks for the info.  I thought there was a line you'd cross where it would get TOO dry.  Sounds like TOO dry isn't a concern.

[tsunkasapa]

Another tip is to cover one side with heavy paper or light cardboard. Line up one point and gradually remove the paper as you line up your edges. I learned that trick installing Formica. An accidental contact with that stuff is a major PITA.

[sbrownn]

On 8/12/2021 at 7:38 PM, tsunkasapa said:

Another tip is to cover one side with heavy paper or light cardboard. Line up one point and gradually remove the paper as you line up your edges. I learned that trick installing Formica. An accidental contact with that stuff is a major PITA.

I like t o final cut my edges after I've glued up the pieces.  That takes care of having to align and sand them.

[YinTx]

It took me a while to learn how to use the aquilim to avoid the sticky buggers on the edges.  For me, I have to apply it really really really thin.  Like, transparent thin.  No lines showing between strokes with the spatula spreader.  Then, I hit it with a hair dryer to dry it out pretty well, it will be just tacky.  Stick em together, and no buggers.  YMMV.

YinTx

[battlemunky]

I do similar to Yin. So thin it looks like it wouldn't work, but it does. I still prefer Barge or Weldwood but Aquilum is pretty good for water based and it doesn't stink up the house.