Another S&W 357 MAG 4" chest rig and custom tools

[Hags]

I recently built this chest rig for a golf buddy who is elk hunting with it in Colorado at this time. I really like doing revolvers. The detail I can get is a lot of fun for me. Its a shame most of the detail is on the back, but the customer sees it and appreciates the work and attention it requires to get it. On that line, I was getting a little frustrated with the current boning tools I have to work with. If I did a black holster,  my wood or bone tools turned black. And I also feel they didn't get into the nooks and crannies I wanted to. I was using a pear shaders a lot, and liked the lines they left. But, they were hard to hold (arthritis). I took a few 5/16 bolts and started playing around with them, the grinder, sander, and buffing wheel. I also used a short piece of 3/8 I had laying around. The result is better than I could have hoped. The lines are clean, burnished, and my hand fatigue is very much reduced. The long angled round faced one is ok, but not really that great. The others though work pretty well. Now I have to improve my handles..

Edited October 14, 2021 by Hags
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[PastorBob]

That looks great.  Love the handmade tools to assist in the process.  I can't ever seem to get crisp lines like that.  Matter of fact, i can hardly make the impression for the trigger guard.  What is your process?  

My steps are.

• Cut leather
• Dye
• Assemble and stitch
• Wet mold

I soak mine for about 10 seconds or so then insert gun mold and begin working with fingers.  I am using two 5-6 oz pieces glued back to back for holster.  Thanks for any insight.

Anyone else is welcome to chime in as well.

 

[Hags]

Hey Pastor Bob, thank you for your kind words. I admit its been a learning process for me as well. To start I use Hermann Oak leather, 7/8oz for the holster and reinforcing piece on the front. I've tried the cheaper stuff and it isn't worth the waste. I use HO 4/5 oz for the straps and connector pieces.  I also use 4/5 for most of my pouches and mag holder fronts. I cut the rough shape of my holster pieces then dye them. After it dries I cut them out and treat any edges that won't be sewn (top of the back sweat shield and the bottoms of the front and back.). Then glue and do an initial edge treatment,  then stitching. I use a cobra class 3, 207 bonded nylon top and bottom. Then wet molding. I have learned much (ok, most) of what I do by watching Adam's leather works instructional videos. He is very clear and detailed and lists his resources. I use a vacuum set up he describes on his site. I feel this really helps. It is not very expensive to set up. Please visit his site for more info on that or PM me and I can show you more about mine. Ok, wet molding. I get the holster wet in the sink, warm water, inside and out.  Out to the the bench and into the bag. Turn on the pump and set the front, approx 3 to 4 minutes, stop the pump, turn it over and do the same to the back. The back is where I get most of my retention and detail. I have to say I usually use the actual gun. I have used models and when I have, I have taken my dremel to the trigger guard and made it deeper all around the trigger. The ones I have were not deep enough to get the detail I want.  Wear a mask if you do this! After I set the front and back, I remove the gun/mold and let my hair dryer blow on it on low for about 15 minutes or so. As is dries I get more detail. Put the gun back in and work it over, edges too. The detail should be taking shape really good now. I just keep working it until I'm satisfied. I did pretty much the same process before I got the vacuum set up. It just took longer for the initial part. I feel taking a dremel to the trigger guard is pretty important as well. The few I've used did not have nearly enough depth to get the leather in there deep enough to make an impression. I hope this helps. 

[chuck123wapati]

beautiful rig,  the stitching rocks!!  and those tools are top notch for the job. I got to ask though why the nylon strap? it throws the build a bit. 

[Hags]

I started with a leather strap. Customers said it was uncomfortable. I changed to the nylon strap and have had no complaints. It adjusts easier, I think after wearing mine the nylon moves easier, and sits better around the back. Just me I guess..

[PastorBob]

2 hours ago, Hags said:

Hey Pastor Bob, thank you for your kind words. I admit its been a learning process for me as well. To start I use Hermann Oak leather, 7/8oz for the holster and reinforcing piece on the front. I've tried the cheaper stuff and it isn't worth the waste. I use HO 4/5 oz for the straps and connector pieces.  I also use 4/5 for most of my pouches and mag holder fronts. I cut the rough shape of my holster pieces then dye them. After it dries I cut them out and treat any edges that won't be sewn (top of the back sweat shield and the bottoms of the front and back.). Then glue and do an initial edge treatment,  then stitching. I use a cobra class 3, 207 bonded nylon top and bottom. Then wet molding. I have learned much (ok, most) of what I do by watching Adam's leather works instructional videos. He is very clear and detailed and lists his resources. I use a vacuum set up he describes on his site. I feel this really helps. It is not very expensive to set up. Please visit his site for more info on that or PM me and I can show you more about mine. Ok, wet molding. I get the holster wet in the sink, warm water, inside and out.  Out to the the bench and into the bag. Turn on the pump and set the front, approx 3 to 4 minutes, stop the pump, turn it over and do the same to the back. The back is where I get most of my retention and detail. I have to say I usually use the actual gun. I have used models and when I have, I have taken my dremel to the trigger guard and made it deeper all around the trigger. The ones I have were not deep enough to get the detail I want.  Wear a mask if you do this! After I set the front and back, I remove the gun/mold and let my hair dryer blow on it on low for about 15 minutes or so. As is dries I get more detail. Put the gun back in and work it over, edges too. The detail should be taking shape really good now. I just keep working it until I'm satisfied. I did pretty much the same process before I got the vacuum set up. It just took longer for the initial part. I feel taking a dremel to the trigger guard is pretty important as well. The few I've used did not have nearly enough depth to get the leather in there deep enough to make an impression. I hope this helps. 

Great information.  Thanks so much.  I have watched several of Adam's Leatherworks videos, just skipped right past the vacuum.  Do you line your holsters?

I will check out the vacuum process and see if I can't rig something up to work.

[Hags]

No, I don't usually line my holsters. 

[PastorBob]

Thanks for sending info on Adam's website.  had full list of parts to buy.  Just can't shell out $300 right now.  It's on my list.  Again, Love the way the holster is defined.  Great job.

[Hags]

Prices must have gone up. Big surprise huh. I got my vacuum pump at Harbor Frieght, think it was about $90. The 2x2 bag and kit was I believe about $125 at the time. Being retired on a pretty fixed income, I can  feel the burn over the $. I did see a vac bag local for $75 a while back. Wouldn't fit my set up but was a good deal if you were starting from scratch and could set up around the fitting the bag had. So keep looking,  and I got good results without it. It just took longer. 

[Double Daddy]

Ain't a thang wrong with any of that! Love those tools, as well..

I built a vacuum rig similar to Adam's Leatherworks (followed his blog post)...works great for all of my holsters, etc.

[Hags]

Thanks Dad, like the feed back!

[muzzleblast]

Excellent job on the holster.  I am also impressed with your home made boning tools.  Well done.  That set would cost at least $200 if they were store bought. 

[Hags]

Thank you for the response. Making our own tools is, in my opinion, an integral part of our craft. I see a need, I look for a solution.