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Farmfield

PolyArt 20 thread issues on Pfaff 545

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So I got 10 unused spools of PolyArt 20 thread with a machine I bought, perfect colors for what I do, but for some reason I just can't get it to work with my Pfaff 545 - I get these weird kinks... 

I've tested this thread with a Durkopp 239, A Juki 562 and a Singer 111G156, and it works without problems on all of them, no problem getting great stitches.

And this Pfaff 545 works perfectly with all thread I tested accept this PolyArt thread. 

So I tested a bunch of needle sizes, I've gone through the whole range of bottom and top tension, I played with the hook timing, I played with the needle position, I played with the bobbin case opener timing, I deburred the slot in the needle plate, it feels like I tried everything, but I just can't get good stitches with the PolyArt thread on the 545...

It's driving me nuts - I just can't understand why it works in the other triple feed machines with horizontal bobbin but not with my Pfaff...

And yeah, the top tension is a bit to high in the picture, but even with balanced or too low top tension, overall too low or too high tension, I still get these kinks in the thread... 

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21 minutes ago, Farmfield said:

So I got 10 unused spools of PolyArt 20 thread with a machine I bought

Looking at Lial website (en.lial.biz/thread-polyart-20-1500m) in their specs it lists the thread as #20 but lists it as Tex 154 which would be closer to a #15 (V207)thread rather then a #20 (V138) which may have to do with it being a looser polyester thread.

kgg

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54 minutes ago, kgg said:

Looking at Lial website (en.lial.biz/thread-polyart-20-1500m) in their specs it lists the thread as #20 but lists it as Tex 154 which would be closer to a #15 (V207)thread rather then a #20 (V138) which may have to do with it being a looser polyester thread.

kgg

It's loose, alright, very keen to untangling...

The thing is, this is a big seller since a decade at one of Sweden biggest industrial sewing suppliers, I don't think it would he if it was generally problematic - and it's worked fine with everything but my 545 - I'm just trying to figure out why it doesn't work in the Pfaff. Even if I can solve it, it's good to know what's causing the issue... 

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9 minutes ago, Farmfield said:

I'm just trying to figure out why it doesn't work in the Pfaff.

Have you checked the top tension discs for wear?

kgg

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It's got a fast twist for sure. I wonder if it affects the stitching because this thread is so stretchy.

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15 hours ago, kgg said:

Have you checked the top tension discs for wear?

kgg

Yeah, I switched them to new ones. No difference. 

That's what fascinates me the most, nothing I've tried has really made a difference, haha... 

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15 hours ago, DrmCa said:

It's got a fast twist for sure. I wonder if it affects the stitching because this thread is so stretchy.

OK, "fast twist", that's a thing?

One thought I've had is, as the bigger bobbin means the machine has to pull out and back i bit more thread than a machine with small bobbin. Mayby it's as simple as the problem rises from that slight difference..? 

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2 hours ago, Farmfield said:

"fast twist"

Just look at that thread in your pictures. It has a very fast twist unlike threads you normally buy for leather machines. The purpose of this thread is probably to sew modern stretchy denim.

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1 hour ago, Constabulary said:

are you using a leather needle instead round point - maybe?

No, this is vinyl and sewn with ballpoint needles. But I get this issue with other materials as well. 

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8 minutes ago, DrmCa said:

Just look at that thread in your pictures. It has a very fast twist unlike threads you normally buy for leather machines. The purpose of this thread is probably to sew modern stretchy denim.

I'm not that read up on thread, to be honest, but I get what you mean.

That being said, comparing it to Gutermann thread I use without problem in the 545, the PolyArt thread isn't more elastic - but it's way more keen to split/unwind than the Gütermann thread is. 

You'd also think that, if that was the problem, it would differ a lot through the range of tension, right? Lower or higher overall tension (as in, both bottom and top) would make a big difference, and it doesn't... 

And funny enough, this is the most popular heavy thread offered by our biggest industrial sewing machine supplier here and they've carried this product for over 10 years. If this was a common issue, you'd think they would write something on their info page on it, but no...

So friggin baffling, this. 

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31 minutes ago, DrmCa said:

Just look at that thread in your pictures. It has a very fast twist unlike threads you normally buy for leather machines. The purpose of this thread is probably to sew modern stretchy denim.

Btw, thread in all forms, beyond the domestic stuff, is really hard to source in Sweden. We really don't have a sewing industry here, so availability is very limited and what's available is very expensive. 

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If you've gone through putting a new needle in, checking the thread path for burrs and missed through holes, ensuring the correct tension top and bottom, then the thread is the only thing left to blame. We use the thread like yours for topstitching jeans, and all of the poly or nylon leather threads that I have has about 2x slower twist. This is all that jumps out on me.

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19 hours ago, DrmCa said:

If you've gone through putting a new needle in, checking the thread path for burrs and missed through holes, ensuring the correct tension top and bottom, then the thread is the only thing left to blame. We use the thread like yours for topstitching jeans, and all of the poly or nylon leather threads that I have has about 2x slower twist. This is all that jumps out on me.

Yeah, I'm ready to give up on it for the Pfaff 545. It's just annoying as I have so much if it, but I just can't spend more time fighting this.

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Have you considered Bonded Nylon or Polyester

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