Gap between layers

[Falkalem]

I’ve been struggling on a few projects to prevent or correct gaps between layers of leather. I glue, stitch, sand, and burnish the edges, then typically I’ll use EdgeKote to paint the edges, but I’m having trouble making the edges look really smooth. If there is any kind of gap between layers, it is super obvious. I’m able to fill the gaps a bit with built up EdgeKote, but it’s still visible. Any tips/tricks? Thanks!

[PastorBob]

Got any pics of the issues?  Could be several things, but will be easier to diagnose with photos.  Thanks.

[tsunkasapa]

Excess glue is the first thing that comes to mind. And do you tap or roll your edges after you join them?

[Falkalem]

1 hour ago, tsunkasapa said:

Excess glue is the first thing that comes to mind. And do you tap or roll your edges after you join them?

Unfortunately, I don’t have any pictures right now. I’ve already given away the one I was most recently working on (was ok enough that I knew the receiver would still like it!). 
 

I usually lay several books over the top of the pieces for several hours to dry, or if the surface isn’t flat enough to do that, I’ve got some pretty heavy duty clips that I line the edge with. I will certainly try tapping/rolling the edge next time. 

[mike02130]

When you say "gap", Do you mean a valley along the seam after the edge paint dries?  Are you making fancy items?  For something with layers like a wallet, I glue two pieces together, I usually make them both oversized and then mark and trim them.  The result is an even and square cut.  Depending on the item, I will cut one piece to size and the mating piece bigger then trim it to size.  There are better edge finishes than what you are using.  Buy some Giardini Basecoat Dense.  It is a primer and filler.  Apply a coat, let dry and sand.  Use Uniters edge paint on top of the basecoat.  I prefer Uniters over Giardini edge paint.  Sand between coats.  If you have a fileteuse, that helps by heating it and smooshing it around.

https://www.buckleguy.com/giardini-basecoat-dense/

https://www.rmleathersupply.com/collections/dyes-stains-finishes/products/uniters-heatable-edge-paint-matte

[tsunkasapa]

2 hours ago, Falkalem said:

I usually lay several books over the top of the pieces for several hours to dry

What kind of glue are you using? Any good contact adhesive is ready to stick together in 10 minutes or so, then start sewing.

[Dwight]

I use Weldwood contact cement . . . and I am seriously conscious of ALL THE EDGES of my project.  I make sure the cement goes out to the edge on ALL OF IT.

I then take the project to my belt sander and just even up the edges . . . 

VERY SELDOM can anyone find where the two or three pieces join . . .  and if it is found . . . it is 90% of the time a flaw in the leather that I did not see.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Falkalem]

2 hours ago, tsunkasapa said:

What kind of glue are you using? Any good contact adhesive is ready to stick together in 10 minutes or so, then start sewing.

I’ve got Fiebings leathercrafting cement. Should I try something different? I definitely don’t think it is dry enough to start stitching in 10 mins. 

[tsunkasapa]

I use Tanner's bond from Tandy. Apply a thin coat to each piece, allow to set 10-15 minutes. That's it, and you won't be able to easily get the pieces apart. NOTHING should take hours to cure.

[Dwight]

1 hour ago, Falkalem said:

I’ve got Fiebings leathercrafting cement. Should I try something different? I definitely don’t think it is dry enough to start stitching in 10 mins. 

With my Weldwood and my heat gun . . . I coat the pieces . . . get em "dry to the touch" with the heat gun . . . put em together . . . sand the edges . . . bevel the edges . . . and I'd guess within 15 minutes of the first dab of contact cement . . . I can be at my sewing machine putting stitches in that belt.

It may be 20 minutes . . . I've never actually timed it . . . but I can guarantee you I can start with a chunk of leather laying on my table . . . and if I need to . . . in an hour or an hour and 10 minutes . . . that chunk of leather can be hanging up in my shop waiting for the dye to dry on that belt I just made.  

And presently I'm sewing all of them with a Tippmann Boss manual sewing machine.

May God bless,

Dwight

[HandyDave]

One mistake i made i hate to say several times but it was several times when i was first starting out was beveling my edges and i ran down the whole inside edge where it was to be glued to another piece. This will leave a pretty good vally that is hard to sand out speacially if you keep stitch line close to edge. 

[Handstitched]

G'Day,

When I'm making knife cases for  leathermans for example, put both pieces on the bench sander to smooth the edges before gluing,   and I make sure the contact adhesive is covering the very edges and then use paper clamps all the way around ( briefly) . Then sew , sand, and burnish.  I have used some old hard boot polish to fill in any minor gaps, burnishes quite nicely too. 

[Falkalem]

12 hours ago, HandyDave said:

One mistake i made i hate to say several times but it was several times when i was first starting out was beveling my edges and i ran down the whole inside edge where it was to be glued to another piece. This will leave a pretty good vally that is hard to sand out speacially if you keep stitch line close to edge. 

Good point! I have definitely made that mistake before, but fortunately not still the issue. 
 

follow up to that - if I’m making something that I’d like to be slim or slimmer, like a minimalist wallet, I’ve seen people skive the edges of the pockets down, I would think that’d end up making a similar issue to the one you just described. Any thoughts on that?

[tsunkasapa]

If your skiving is smooth and even, it should not cause a void or valley of any kind.