Stitch line

[Handstitched]

Sometimes  the calipers, sometimes the groover, depends on the job. But for belts for eg. , the groover . 

HS

 

[chuck123wapati]

On 2/2/2022 at 1:11 AM, zuludog said:

I started with a stitch groover, but now I use wing dividers. 

The top layer of leather, on the grain side, is the best part of the leather, and as you go towards the lower, flesh side the leather is not as good. If you use a groover you remove the best & strongest part of the leather, and you make it thinner, so that means you're doing the stitching on a thin part of the worst leather

The explanation for using a groover is that it sets the stitching below the surface, and so reduces wear on the stitching - but how often does the stitching really get worn?. If you use a divider, pull the stitching tight, and flatten it with a hammer or mallet, this will pull the stitching down so it lies pretty flat anyway - look closely and you'll see

And synthetic thread is much less susceptible to wear.   

This justification for using dividers was explained to me by Nigel Armitage at one of his lectures, and is also on his Vimeo channel.. I've used dividers over a groover for 4 or 5 years now, and not had any problems or complaints. I notice that in YouTube videos dividers are becoming more common.

 

in my case this collar was grooved for stitching, the square ring in the picture has been sliding back and forth over it for one year with virtually no effect. No tears in the leather. With out being grooved it wouldn't have lasted a month. What I'm getting at is yes there are times when you need to groove your stitch lines . this collar is one of those times belts the same thing, a holster maybe not so much. One method doesn't fit every need its just that simple. 

[tsunkasapa]

What he said.

[JLSleather]

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