Leather-wrapped wood panel

[Susan1]

I am doing a leather-wrapped decorative flat wood panel. I am using 3/4” ply and 1.5mm chrome tan. The edges of the panel will be framed afterwards, so I do not need to worry about the appearance of the leather edges. My plan was to cut an oversized leather piece, pull and staple using alternating tension, and stapling with a pneumatic stapler, similar to an upholstery project, but on a flat surface, no cushioning. My question is, should I also use glue? I am wondering if I need to first glue the leather piece in place, as it is on a flat plywood surface, but I also worry that I won’t be able to get adequate tension once glued, and that it may cause an uneven look if the glue were to fail down the line. Thoughts? 

[PastorBob]

I would not glue it. When you tension it in order to staple, it may pull either the glue off the board, or fibers from the leather causing imperfections in the surface.  Chrome tan is normally pretty stretchy and would do better with just the stretch and staple method. IMO.  Make sure to post pics when done.

[chuck123wapati]

I've stretched a few canvases but not leather lol. I would stretch it the same way though. No glue needed imo.

[fredk]

Basically, what you are doing is what I do to make a game board

I glue the leather, either veg or chrome tan, to the flat board then when thats dry I glue the leather to the edges. No pulling or stretching, just rolling it over with a brayer to ensure a good glue stick

Chrome tan on the board with a veg tan playing area glued on top

Edited February 23, 2022 by fredk

[Samalan]

1 hour ago, Susan1 said:

I am doing a leather-wrapped decorative flat wood panel. I am using 3/4” ply and 1.5mm chrome tan. The edges of the panel will be framed afterwards, so I do not need to worry about the appearance of the leather edges. My plan was to cut an oversized leather piece, pull and staple using alternating tension, and stapling with a pneumatic stapler, similar to an upholstery project, but on a flat surface, no cushioning. My question is, should I also use glue? I am wondering if I need to first glue the leather piece in place, as it is on a flat plywood surface, but I also worry that I won’t be able to get adequate tension once glued, and that it may cause an uneven look if the glue were to fail down the line. Thoughts? 

WHAT'S IT BEING USED FOR ARE YOU PAINTING IT CARVING IT WILL IT BE VERTICAL OR HORIZONTAL 

[Susan1]

On 2/23/2022 at 12:29 PM, fredk said:

Basically, what you are doing is what I do to make a game board

I glue the leather, either veg or chrome tan, to the flat board then when thats dry I glue the leather to the edges. No pulling or stretching, just rolling it over with a brayer to ensure a good glue stick

Chrome tan on the board with a veg tan playing area glued on top

What type of glue are you using for this? Looks nice! I have a very narrow brayer, but nothing very wide. Any tips for the neat corners?

On 2/23/2022 at 12:07 PM, PastorBob said:

I would not glue it. When you tension it in order to staple, it may pull either the glue off the board, or fibers from the leather causing imperfections in the surface.  Chrome tan is normally pretty stretchy and would do better with just the stretch and staple method. IMO.  Make sure to post pics when done.

This was my original thought was well, but I keep going back and forth on it. I am going to try out a few small samples and see what I get! Thanks!

[Susan1]

On 2/23/2022 at 12:10 PM, chuck123wapati said:

I've stretched a few canvases but not leather lol. I would stretch it the same way though. No glue needed imo.

Thanks, I am thinking this too, but I keep going back and forth on it. 

[chuck123wapati]

11 minutes ago, Susan1 said:

Thanks, I am thinking this too, but I keep going back and forth on it. 

your welcome Freds way obviously works well also either glue it or stretch it but no need for both. lol Would love to see your work when done please post.

[Dwight]

If you use Weldwood contact cement . . . and roll it out flat after putting it on there . . . you will have no need for staples . . . the contact cement will hold it.  

It holds kitchen cabinets together for 20, 30, or 40 years . . . with no problems at all.  It can darn sure do your little leather project.  And as well . . . I have a roman shield . . . leather bonded to plywood . . . that was bent into a curve . . . been on there for a number of years . . . still looks great . . . no droops . . .  no bubbles . . . pretty as the day I first carried it.

Stapling it will only ask for it to fail . . . leather is heavy . . . and with the cooling and warming of years ahead . . .  it will contract when cold . . . expand when warm . . . and eventually a droop will form in it . . . you will not be able to stop that.  The only reason that doesn't happen to paintings . . . the paint is stiff and will not let it even begin to droop.

But either way . . . have fun.

May God bless,

Dwight

[fredk]

1 hour ago, Susan1 said:

What type of glue are you using for this? Looks nice! I have a very narrow brayer, but nothing very wide. Any tips for the neat corners?

1. the wood I use is thick MDF which is more stable that plywood, especially the plywood I can get here

2. For the leather to MDF/wood, whether its veg or chrome tan I use either 'copydex', a rubber based glue, or a contact adhesive. Which one depends on which one I reach off my shelf first

3. I have a 4 inch wide brayer. A smaller one might do just as well. After laying the board on the leather I flip it over and use the brayer. Going from the centre to the edges and corners, working around in a star design fashion.

4. I do opposite edges next. I usually use contact adhesive on these. I hand press the leather onto the edge then run the brayer over it a few times. Here I must add, you must round off the top and bottom of the edge/side to get the leather to go around it easier

5. Holding the board up with its leather covered edge on my cutting mat I cut the glued leather away from where its longer than the width of the board. I cut it straight, using the board for where to cut

6. These days I cut my leather large enough so that I can bring the leather that's on the edge round onto the bottom of the board as well. I glue this now

7. Now I do the same for the other two sides. For cutting the excess from the corners, I use the outside of the leather already glued on as the cutting guide. This gives a neat over-lap. Sometimes, usually a little extra glue is needed here. But when it comes to the bottom of the board as I glue the leather on I use a sharp knife to cut through the two layers of leather to try and get a 45 degree angle from the corner. This gives a tidier butt join

hth,

if anything is not clear just ask again

[Susan1]

On 2/25/2022 at 1:08 PM, fredk said:

1. the wood I use is thick MDF which is more stable that plywood, especially the plywood I can get here

2. For the leather to MDF/wood, whether its veg or chrome tan I use either 'copydex', a rubber based glue, or a contact adhesive. Which one depends on which one I reach off my shelf first

3. I have a 4 inch wide brayer. A smaller one might do just as well. After laying the board on the leather I flip it over and use the brayer. Going from the centre to the edges and corners, working around in a star design fashion.

4. I do opposite edges next. I usually use contact adhesive on these. I hand press the leather onto the edge then run the brayer over it a few times. Here I must add, you must round off the top and bottom of the edge/side to get the leather to go around it easier

5. Holding the board up with its leather covered edge on my cutting mat I cut the glued leather away from where its longer than the width of the board. I cut it straight, using the board for where to cut

6. These days I cut my leather large enough so that I can bring the leather that's on the edge round onto the bottom of the board as well. I glue this now

7. Now I do the same for the other two sides. For cutting the excess from the corners, I use the outside of the leather already glued on as the cutting guide. This gives a neat over-lap. Sometimes, usually a little extra glue is needed here. But when it comes to the bottom of the board as I glue the leather on I use a sharp knife to cut through the two layers of leather to try and get a 45 degree angle from the corner. This gives a tidier butt join

hth,

if anything is not clear just ask again

Thanks for all the tips! 

[fredk]

I forgot to mention; whatever board you use, if you are going to glue the leather on - seal the board. I use two coats of thinned waterproof PVA glue to seal the board. Without sealing your glue will soak into the board and not give a good bond to the leather

[Susan1]

On 2/28/2022 at 5:48 PM, fredk said:

I forgot to mention; whatever board you use, if you are going to glue the leather on - seal the board. I use two coats of thinned waterproof PVA glue to seal the board. Without sealing your glue will soak into the board and not give a good bond to the leather

Thanks, good advice! I ended up gluing it, but the glue did want to soak into the wood a little too much. I will try this next time. I used a PVA, and did a thin coat on both materials.