MtlBiker Posted March 5, 2022 Report Posted March 5, 2022 I'm thinking of buying an Osborne edge creaser, specifically the model 21. I see 5 sizes listed... are those sizes the distance from the edge of the leather or the depth or width of the crease? (Beginner question.) I don't see that explained on any of the web sites I'd seen with that product. Would a #1 (1/16") and #5 (1/8") be a good first choice for most cases? And about using the creaser, I've seen videos where the creaser is heated before creasing and others where the leather is made wet before creasing. Are there pros/cons to either method? Do you crease before or after marking the stitch line and stitching? I'm making some small pouches and card holders and would like to make the edges more attractive. Thanks! Quote Current machines: Janome HD3000 and Skyline S5, Consew 206RB-5, Singer Profinish serger, Techsew 2750 PRO, Sailrite LSZ-1 Premium, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver
Members Tugadude Posted March 5, 2022 Members Report Posted March 5, 2022 I found the following on a website, the sizes pertain to the width of the crease. 1=1/16; 2=5/64; 3=3/32, 4=7/64, 5=1/8. The finer the work, the narrower you go in my opinion. For example, for a watch strap, especially for a dress watch, the 1/16" would be nice. For a more rugged leather strap for a sports watch, then wider is OK. For larger items, bags and briefcases and such, the #5, 1/8" creaser would probably work best. I don't heat mine, I prefer to wet the leather and it works well for my purposes. However, I've seen excellent results using heat and the electric creasers are the cat's pajamas if you want to invest in them. There are threads on them here where you can find recommendations if you are interested. They are by no means necessary, but having one would be nice. You can also go on youtube and watch some tutorials on creasing. There's one from Tandy which covers the basics, but it doesn't discuss using heat and doesn't address electric creasers either. But there are several which do. Worth a look. And yes, I agree that creases add to a project. To me it adds a level of interest on otherwise nondescript portions of the work. They add some class and professionalism in my opinion. But they probably aren't necessary on every project either. You have to judge each on its merits. And regarding your question about when to crease, I do it before marking my stitching line with dividers. I don't know that there is a right or wrong, just make sure that the edge of the leather is perfectly straight. The creaser and the dividers simply follow the edge. If the edge is wonky, then guess what? Quote
Members TomE Posted March 5, 2022 Members Report Posted March 5, 2022 I have an Osborne #21 size 3 creaser. IMO it needed some reshaping when new to work properly, like all Osborne tools. The creasing edge was sharp and cut into the grain. The outside flange had machining marks that caused it to drag on the edge of the leather. I used a round Arkansas stone slip covered with wet/dry paper and a buffing wheel to get it into shape. I like the Osborne tools but they require some attention to work properly. I really like the Vergez-Blanchard screw crease right out of the box, but I am creasing 8-10 oz leather for tack. Quote
MtlBiker Posted March 5, 2022 Author Report Posted March 5, 2022 22 minutes ago, Tugadude said: I found the following on a website, the sizes pertain to the width of the crease. 1=1/16; 2=5/64; 3=3/32, 4=7/64, 5=1/8. Thank you. So, the distance of the crease from the edge is the same for all those different creasers? Hmmm.... does that mean the crease really starts at the edge of the leather? My understanding is that you use an edge beveler FIRST, before using the creaser. Is that right? I was hoping to get by with just two creasers but maybe I should consider the #1, #3 and the #5. Not going with an electric creaser for sure, at least not at this point in my leatherworking. My day job is an art gallery and picture framing business, so I'm particularly concerned with the "look" of an item. It needs to have class. So yes, I'm getting a creaser. Maybe 2 or 3. I'd like to try making watch straps, and also small pouches and billfolds. A creaser might let me "put another feather in my lap". Quote Current machines: Janome HD3000 and Skyline S5, Consew 206RB-5, Singer Profinish serger, Techsew 2750 PRO, Sailrite LSZ-1 Premium, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver
Members TomE Posted March 5, 2022 Members Report Posted March 5, 2022 2 minutes ago, MtlBiker said: Thank you. So, the distance of the crease from the edge is the same for all those different creasers? Hmmm.... does that mean the crease really starts at the edge of the leather? My understanding is that you use an edge beveler FIRST, before using the creaser. Is that right? I think the sizes refer to distance from the edge. You can make the crease line thicker or thinner by shaping and polishing the tool. For a crease line less than 1/8 in from the edge (using the Osborne #21 size 3), I have better luck creasing before beveling the edge with a small beveler. You can do it however you like. Quote
MtlBiker Posted March 5, 2022 Author Report Posted March 5, 2022 10 minutes ago, TomE said: I have an Osborne #21 size 3 creaser. IMO it needed some reshaping when new to work properly, like all Osborne tools. The creasing edge was sharp and cut into the grain. The outside flange had machining marks that caused it to drag on the edge of the leather. I used a round Arkansas stone slip covered with wet/dry paper and a buffing wheel to get it into shape. I like the Osborne tools but they require some attention to work properly. I really like the Vergez-Blanchard screw crease right out of the box, but I am creasing 8-10 oz leather for tack. Thank you. I'm going with the Osborne simply because I can get it easily here in Canada without paying exorbitant shipping charges (plus exchange rate and probably some duty). I don't mind if I have to smooth out some roughness. Would you suggest that getting the #3 (only) to start would be a good idea? I've never made a watch strap but would like to, plus some small pouches, billfolds and credit card holders. Quote Current machines: Janome HD3000 and Skyline S5, Consew 206RB-5, Singer Profinish serger, Techsew 2750 PRO, Sailrite LSZ-1 Premium, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver
Members TomE Posted March 5, 2022 Members Report Posted March 5, 2022 I would ask those who make watch straps and wallets. My exprience is limited to heavier leathers mostly heating the creaser with an alcohol lamp. It has a different feel on cased leather so I would experiment. Another modification I've seen is shortening the creaser relative to the guide (or reversing them to make a left handed tool) to help it rest on the edge. If yours is difficult to hold on a beveled edge you could consider that modification. Quote
Members Tugadude Posted March 5, 2022 Members Report Posted March 5, 2022 5 hours ago, MtlBiker said: Thank you. So, the distance of the crease from the edge is the same for all those different creasers? Hmmm.... does that mean the crease really starts at the edge of the leather? My understanding is that you use an edge beveler FIRST, before using the creaser. Is that right? I was hoping to get by with just two creasers but maybe I should consider the #1, #3 and the #5. Not going with an electric creaser for sure, at least not at this point in my leatherworking. My day job is an art gallery and picture framing business, so I'm particularly concerned with the "look" of an item. It needs to have class. So yes, I'm getting a creaser. Maybe 2 or 3. I'd like to try making watch straps, and also small pouches and billfolds. A creaser might let me "put another feather in my lap". It is the distance from the edge. You can also buy an adjustable creaser. You adjust it to the size you want, the distance away from the edge. Quote
MtlBiker Posted March 9, 2022 Author Report Posted March 9, 2022 I just received my Osborne 21-3 edge creaser and it's not what I expected... I bought the middle size (#3, supposedly 3/32") thinking that as a first creaser it might be all I need. Well, I'm surprised to see that the part that (I think) is supposed to do the creasing is cutting sharp! Surely it's not supposed to be like this? What do you think? Quote Current machines: Janome HD3000 and Skyline S5, Consew 206RB-5, Singer Profinish serger, Techsew 2750 PRO, Sailrite LSZ-1 Premium, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver
alpha2 Posted March 9, 2022 Report Posted March 9, 2022 Yes, that will cut the leather badly. Is that really what Osborne tools look like today? That's pathetic. Looks like it was made with an angle grinder, with a coarse wheel. Quote So much leather...so little time.
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