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There's enough there to cut it back to a uniform distance all around, using the distance from the tail feathers as your reference, and then sew it onto a backing piece that can be larger to allow for a decorative stamping if needed. Just depends what it's going to be used for.

Ok, thank you!

No resolene or other finishes until the dye has penetrated the leather and dried. Then I'll usually oil and let it even out before I apply a finish.

I don't know, this says it'll sew down to V92. You might make those cushions after all. https://sunnysewingcenter.com/index.php/product/highlead-ga2688-l-long-arm-cylinder-bed-walking-foot-sewing-machine/

A couple of suggestions. (1) theres a good possibility you won’t find a dye to match.—- but if you buy two of three dyes you might be able to experiment mixing them to color match. ( same thing as color matching paint at the hardware store.). (2). I would recommend cutting the dye 50/50 with alcohol. Apply light even coats. When you dilute the dye, it’ll be a lighter shade. You can go back and add additional coats to darken it. If you dyed it full strength, and it’s too dark, theres not really a way to lighten it.

Thanks for the feedback. Border can work if I just do it on those two short sides. I”ll try a semi-dry soft modeling spoon first. This background area will be red… I may shift to burgundy to hide this better and put more focus on the eagle (whose feathers will be dyed various colors in various shades. All a great experiment in doodling with a knife. Again, thank you.

According to the manual it will take a #26 needle. The needles will leave a large hole about the size of a 2 1/2" finishing nail. If you don't have a manual here is a pdf version. kgg 20190619115045364.pdf

AIZilla, i have been pondering the reverse issue. would be nice to have a closer lever. been thinking about some extension. And, i will look for that thread. I have been a bit worried what I have may not be fine enough. we will see.

Custom Maker Stamps are $90 for 0.5"x0.5" and $100 for 1"x1".

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Cool! You did a great job on the paint. If I need any conveyor belts stitched I know who to contact.

I do think you'll struggle getting it to sew thread light enough for cushions. Look the a thread called something like "dumbing down a cowboy 4500". It'll probably sew a fender on your car just like it is.

Technically, here in Oz we are only allowed to transport handguns to and from the range (or a gunsmith/dealer, who will be suitably licensed to accept it and have the necessary paperwork). Having said that it varies from State to State, here in SA it is possible BUT there is paperwork involved and the receiving person should have a handgun licence. Plus Handstitched is in Western Australia where their Firearms Regulations are in complete disarray due to politics! Firearm owners there have to be very, very careful at the moment.

Well, I love it. Be sure to pack a lunch when you hike down to reverse it for your backstitch.

So, I just got a very used ga-2688l that I am restoring. ( I posted a couple of photos on another post). It was such a good deal that I could not turn it down, despite it being a lot more than I need. My goal is to sew some leather cushions for a chair. Probably will get more into leatherwork as my research has created a lot of interest. this forum is fantastic! The machie say it takes DYx3 size 26 needles. ( I have about 10 round tip) Those needles are pretty big and I think I would like to use smaller needles, but am having trouble with the nomenclature of needles. I would like to be able to sew thread tex 92, 137, and 207, and would like a LL or LR needle. I am having trouble finding DYx3 needles that match those thread sizes and needle tip type. Are DYx3, 794, 7x3, and DYx2 all equivalent? Or are they different? I really don't want to have to get into changing the timing of the machine to change a needle. Any thoughts? Thanks Gordon

So, I think I bit off a bit more than I needed to. I had been looking at Facebook Marketplace for a couple of months wanting a 206RB or similar. After missing a couple of good deals, I jumped on a deal that may have been a mistake. A Highlead GA-2688L came up for sale. Prior use was in a Nabisco cookie factory sewing conveyor belts. I got it (head only) for $400. I am still not sure this was a great purchase, but here we are. I used a bunch of degreaser and even had to powerwash it. I am sure I am going to get roasted for that, but it was a mess on the outside and in. Attached are some photos. I still need to make a table, get a motor and get it running. So a bit on an ongoing project. My initial goal is to sew leather cushion covers for a chair I am making. I know this is huge overkill, but I am assuming it will work.

That is a beautiful piece! Could incorporate a boarder along the top or stitching to hide the scratch?

I think Pastor Bob is right, you could lower the top and get rid of it. You're so close on the tail feathers that you wouldn't lose proportion. Or a border on the top. Impressive piece. EDIT: I think that piece is meant to fill the yoke area of a denim jacket. Looks like a border or a do over. ..

I agree completely. I told the customer that if he doesnt like it I'll make it right. So I'll let him think about it a few days then reach out to make sure he's satisfied.

After I cut my leather I put some NFO and let it sit for an hour or so while I do other things. (I put just enough to change the color don't saturate the leather.) I then dye the leather and let it sit until the next day so the leather dries completely. The only times I use a wool dauber is for edges or small projects. For larger things like bags, holster, belts, I use some thing larger like a wool pad or even a folded up sock, you can also dip dye Then I buff the leather and add my finish, either Resolene (diluted 50/50 with water) or Fiebing's Leather Balm with Atom Wax

I prefer While stainless sewing machine oil. Does not stain. glenn

Perfect! Thank you!

Incorrect. They typically have a lower startup rpm but depending on operator skill, startup rpm, manufacturer you may require a speed reducer regardless of servo motor type. If you are going to be sewing leather the needles you will need are 135 x 16 x needle size. Your machine will come with a 135 x 17 x needle size for fabric. Here is a good link to a chart showing needle size versus thread size vs thread strength ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ). Don't cheap out, buy brand name needles and thread. Always buy two spools of thread, one for the top thread and one for the bobbin. That way you can fill a bobbin while you sew without having to un-thread the top thread to wind a bobbin. kgg

Thank you! This is what is now my understanding: Brushless servo motors have a high startup rpm's so it is recommended to use additional speed reducers with a smaller motor pulley. Brushed motors do not require speed reducers. Likely motors that come with 1541 are brushed - This is my assumption Getting "S" type, the safety clutch is recommended Items like bags are best done on a cylinder arm machine. You can turn a cylinder arm machine into a flatbed machine by installing a flatbed attachment. I think I will go with 1541S and with whatever brushed motor it comes with to learn the trade. I can always upgrade the motor to brushless later if I see the need (after some paid job 🙂 ). I will focus first on items I can do with 1541S. There is lots to learn. Thank you for your help! If I missed anything please let me know.