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I might have 2 of the missing parts that you need. I'm not sure if I have a spare tension piece. I'll have to check and get back to you. I'm in Toronto. Canada.

Greetings People, I am looking for a part for a Junker & Ruh Sd 28 to complete a machine I'm restoring. Please refer to the pictures. Mine is damaged where it holds the needle so it can no longer hold a needle properly at the correct angle. If anyone is looking for other Junker Parts I may have them. I also carry new shuttles and bobbins if interested.

So I was waiting for leather to dry a little and thought I would fiddle with this. The removed material at the bottom needs to be the diameter of the cartridge (in this case .429" -44 mag) The oval punch should be close to that plus the thickness of the leather doubled (.429 + leather doubled) The stitching down the case wall needs to be measured with a couple strait edges holding the leather and bullet down to a flat surface. In my attempt, my punched hole is a little too long. The stitching holes I just eyeballed the radious going under the bullet. Knowing these measurements I think I could build a pattern. Then the stitching on the back piece I think would be like a normal piece except the radioused part under the bullet might need to be punched during assembly? On a bottle neck case, Ill probably have to work that out but I think the oval hole might need to be higher?

You might look at Adler 669 Adler 105-25 Cowboy cb246 Jianglong 246 Jianglong 341 Jianglong 1341 Cowboy cb227r cowboy cb341 cowboy cb1341 Techsew 4800 Cobra class 26 Pfaff 335 Typical TW3-P335 Necchi 840-100

Edges are my Achilles heel. Yours ain't perfect but not bad at all. Some folks spend an inordinate amount of time on edges to get them glassy smooth... only to have them fray with a little bit of use. Don't be too hard on yourself because it proclaims the handmade source of the gift. I love the design and the execution is worthy of pride. Lucky son! I grew up playing Scrabble across the table from my mother. It's how she taught us how to improve our vocabulary.

Maybe, also maybe files were too large, but somehow missed telling you that. There was a major upgrade here a month or so ago and some things are still cropping up to be changed or clarified. Keeps us all on our toes!

By the way, I love that picture of the dog lol, he looks like he's thinking about something, what a beautiful dog.

I saw that too. With a round hole punched at the apex of the dart, everything fits together nicely, possibly without wet forming. But wet forming probably wouldn't hurt.

Thanks for the information, that's pretty cool.

Hello. My father and I own a shoe repair in Covina, CA and have a ton of heavy duty equipment and machinery we would like to get rid of. Most of our machinery is old but still operates. Some machinery can be taken for parts. See some of our equipment here.

The leg bags are simple. Phone slot, slots for pens and a flashlight, etc. All straight seams. A part cylinder with a flat bed attachment is worth looking into though, in case I end up making these bags more complex. Are there models that compare to the flatbed machines I mentioned that I should look at? Thanks!

It just asked me for a link to the images online, not to actually attach anything. Maybe it wouldn't allow them either way because I was still waiting for approval to join?

Really nicely done !!!!!

Lots of good choices for your projects. The Cobra Class 26 is a popular machine and there are a fair number of lightly used machines available on FB marketplace, Craigslist, etc. I bought one in like new condition several years ago and figure it will hold its value. It is quite handy for medium to lightweight projects.

Hey, I have no experience with shoes - so much said from the start, but I dye my dog collars myself most of the time. One thing I noticed there is that If you don't put a sealer on top, you have rub off as soon as you clean / condition. A conditioner is not a sealer to my knowledge. So you might need to have a look into that. I know that a lot of "shoepeople" use the angelus sealers. I use them as well and have noticed, that these sealers tend to flake a bit in the application process within cracks and creases, but that could also have been because I used up a bottle and those were the last drops. With the angelus ones I can tell you, that a small bottle lasts you a bit of time. My recommendation would be to try the caranauba creme by Fiebrings as it can also be used in the restoration process and as a finish, plus it builds a scratch resistant coate or after you striped your shoes from all your prior-finishing attempts the high-gloss finish by angelus. Was just a quick thought when I read through your problem, as I had a predyed leather strap on my table that bled a lot in the care process, when I was done stitching and seemed to not have a finish/seal on top. I fixed it by removing my care products, applying some neatsfoot oil, waiting for it to soak in and then finished it with the high-gloss. So far the colour is still vibrant and is not bleeding anymore, when being cleaned. Same applies to all my dog collars, that I dyed myself and used the finish as a last step. -Tove

Thank you sir! Thanks so much! Really appreciate that!

Thank you, Bruce! I definitely appreciate the suggestions! Yes sir the need was round. I couldn't figure out why that wandering happened. Would the needle shape effect it? Thanks, Bob! I love those closures too! They're a lot like the Loxx brand ones but I like these smaller versions from Rocky Mountain Leather for things like this. Thanks so much!

Thank you I will look it up.

Thank you very much, this clears thing up, I will do it as soon as I can.

You really looking at compound feed machines (needle/feed dog/presser foot) move the material along which the machines you have mentioned are. For flat items, think of wallets/belts, are best done on a flatbed machine like a brand name Juki DNU-1541S or a clone which the Consew RB is and both are able to handle up to 3/8" thick material. For round items like bags, seats a cylinder arm machine is a much better choice like a brand name Juki LS-1341 or a clone and able to handle up to 7/16" thick material. . You can sorta kinda turn a cylinder arm into a flatbed machine by installing a table top attachment but you can not turn a flatbed into a cylinder arm machine. The cost of brand name machines like Juki can be expensive that is why a lot of people go with clone machines like Consew, Cowboy, Cobra to name a few. There are quite a few clones available at various price points, just depends on how deep your pockets are.

@Thadrick I moved your post to Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes. It seems to be the best related forum.

@eLeM 800 pixels in the longest dimension is quite adequate and recommended. Most devices members use don't display much higher resolution and it is a favor to users on the fringes of the internet that suffer from low download speeds.

Tell us about the leg bags. Boat seats are typical "upholstery" which works great on a flatbed walking foot. But when you start talking bags then you have gussets. And if you've ever stitched a stiff gusset on a bag with a flatbed machine you will wish for a cylinder bed or post bed. 😀 What type of images? What is the filesize? Sometimes there are filesize restrictions, so scaling the image down to 1000x1000 pixels gets it under the bar.

Here is a link to my experience with re-dying shoes. It may help, maybe not but it may give you some ideas. kgg

In my opinion 1000$ for a machine that is so old is way too much. I own old pfaffs and Adlers, but I am using them as hobbiest and with a lot of love for old iron. It's great machine with some limitations (small bobbin), but with limited documentation and limited access to parts which are often very expensive. The worth of the head is max 300$, 500 if you really want this machine. Tables and old motors are practically not worth much.