Leather Tools
Leather tools have specialized uses. Learn about available tools, how to care for them, sharpening, and safety.
4,076 topics in this forum
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- 2 followers
- 11 replies
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I need only a few, simple clicker dies. I would like to get dies made and sold by US companies. Where should I look for good quality dies at reasonable prices? Also looking for a 4-ton clicker press. Any suggestions? Nick
Last reply by wizard of tragacanth, -
- 4 followers
- 24 replies
- 3.7k views
When we moved to Israel, I took some of my leather tools but not all of them. Unfortunately you can’t buy a skiving knife here (not that I loved the Osborne skiving knife I had in the U.S.) Big Stacks Small Workshop suggested using a razor blade scraper. Fine as it goes, but not much stability. And it doesn’t work well for straight 90 degree cuts. Viktor George had the answer. On one of his Tips videos, he shows some skiving knives he made from carbon steel putty knives that he bought second hand. I found some new high carbon steel knives at a hardware store that focuses on contractors. Now it was time to get to work! Using a set of cheap diamond-on-steel…
Last reply by MarshalWill, -
- 1 follower
- 5 replies
- 814 views
Basically a manual clicker press, I saw one on youtube and thought that looked useful. Amazon (Aus) had what was an older version with needle bearings on the shaft end for what was a good price ($178) and by signing up to their app (which I won't use again as I prefer using my computer) I got another $20 0ff. $158 delivered was too good to pass up. It arrived today, well packed, and I forgot how heavy 50lbs is!!! This thing is built like a tank! As a bonus it is the later model with big bearings on the shaft ends. So, the base and pressure plate are made from 5/8"/16mm plate steel, the main support bar is 1 1/4"/30mm bar and the upright bolts are 3/4"/17mm rod. The e…
Last reply by dikman, -
- 4 followers
- 20 replies
- 1.5k views
Greetings. I make tools, and have been making tools for over 40 years. I spent many months this year learning the skills of refurbishing, sharpening and tuning, tin-snips, shears and scissors. Along that path I discovered WISS #8 Belt Shears for cutting leather and fabric belting. They are very nice, but a bit small for my taste. The largest commonly available WISS Shears are #22W, at over 12 inches long They can be purchased new but the old ones are better. I ended up with several pairs of 22W's and decided to super-size the #8 Belt Shears. The WISS Belt Shears are interesting because the lower blade is serrated to hold the leather and the upper blad…
Last reply by mbnaegle, -
- 2 followers
- 5 replies
- 690 views
I typically use one of two rivet setters a brand name ( Weaver ) and unknown brand ( Chinese ). What sparked this topic was when adding a magnetic holder to my new leather apron to hold small items I noticed the Weaver would hold while the Chinese one wouldn't and would have to be placed back into the tool holder. Here is my comparison: 1) Weaver #12 Heritage Rivet and Burr Setter ( https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/products/heritage-rivet-burr-setters?srsltid=AfmBOorZa03-7yJXd4NK0J7ms-NhaPObUqG9y6-cYWW633ChiNRKtNjq ): i) colour: gun barrel black, ii) length: 112 mm ( 4.4" ) iii) weight: 198 grams (6.9 oz) iv) Construction: Ferromagnet…
Last reply by dikman, -
- 4 replies
- 430 views
I've got several rawhide mauls an various sizes, and one of the little ones was worn down considerably so my Dad took apart to rebuild before he passed and I'd like to get it finished. I don't think it's an Osborne, as it has a handle made of stacked leather rings and the end cap washer was rivetted in place. Given the wear and beating it had, I went ahead and threaded the end to take a nut so it'll be easier to service in the future. I'm having some trouble finding the right rawhide refill for it though. The refill should have a 3/4" ID hole, and be about 1 1/2" or 1 5/8" tall. Diameter could be anything over 2". I think at one point the plan was to make a plastic …
Last reply by mbnaegle, -
- 3 replies
- 550 views
I'm curious, what's the most popular weight or weights of Rawhide "Mauls" used for leatherwork? I've never actually used one until recently, mainly just used hammers and mallets made from hard rubber/plastic or wood. Just curiosity mainly, I used one for the first time at a friends place to whack a punch. Not the svelte classy type you see in leatherworker catalogs with the leather handles, but rather a more industrial rig with what looked like an ash handle but having the same head design as any other leather maul. I'd say I found it pretty effective, yet a bit clumsy?! A little intrigued all the same, might like to add a couple to our tools.
Last reply by bruce johnson, -
- 4 followers
- 17 replies
- 1.6k views
So I'm wanting to upgrade my pricking tools. Right now I have 6 spi angled tools. I'm looking for a set that I can use on my sheaths, holsters, pocket knife cases, etc....I only saddle stitch by hand. So here are my questions: Are round hole prickers better? What would be a standard mm spacing? What would be a decent priced brand? I was looking at some WUTA prickers on amazon. Any advice would be appreciated!! Bobby
Last reply by DJole, -
- 2 followers
- 12 replies
- 1.6k views
Hey! I'm planning to launch some 1"x1" plate stamps. I've prototyped the following designs, but I'm curious to see what designs people would be interested in? If you wanted to buy a plate stamp, what design would you want on it?
Last reply by bsshog40, -
- 4 followers
- 24 replies
- 5.3k views
An old Rose head knife I picked up for next to nothing. You can see why from the first picture, she was a little rough. That being said I'm a firm believer that if it's beyond repair you may as well try and repair it because it can't get any broker! I know that's not proper but broken won't work and broked ain't a word for that sentence either. The first picture shows the knife as it was when I got it. The second shows the handle removed. It's a 5/32" steel pin for those interested in knowing the pin size. Picture three shows it back together. Picture four is just closer so you can see I did not remove every pit down flush from the blade. It is also not sharpend yet…
Last reply by Simeon54,
