Leather Tools
Leather tools have specialized uses. Learn about available tools, how to care for them, sharpening, and safety.
4,066 topics in this forum
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Can anyone tell me about this set of "Al Stohlman Brand" copper rivet setters? I know of other Al Stohlman or "AS Brand" tools but can't find a part number or year printed on it. There are three sets: 8-9 gauge, 10 gauge, and 12-14 gauge. Each set has a burr/washer setter, the cap domer and the tip domer. Does anyone know about how recently these were still for sale, or what they sold for?
Last reply by laleyendabizzness, -
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Hello all! I haven't really posted on here before, been more of a lurker haha. Recently, while I was at work, a man came around selling some tools and leather that he had extra. I'm fairly new to leather working (about 7 months), but I have heard tell that some tools are better quality than others in the long run. I have been anticipating a chance to get some better tools so when he pulled out some punches that are branded "AS BRAND" and an "Al Stohlman" belt punch, I quickly offered to buy them as I recognized the name. In heinsight, I should have inspected them a bit closer. A couple of the punches are damaged (See pics). I can't find any information on them…
Last reply by laleyendabizzness, -
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Hello All, I have been working on some new tooling and would like to get your feedback on things that could be improved. I thought it turned out well but as always all of us are smarter than one of us. This is my version of a lace cutter. It does both 90 degree cuts and 45 degree bevels. The main bar is 1" steel and about 5" long. I use a shaft collar for quick and repeatable width adjustments. It is attached by bolts or can simply be clamped to your table. there is no wobble in the fitting of any components and its very solid. The main shaft rotates so the angle of the bevel can be facing the collar or away from the collar. I tried to do tw…
Last reply by Peter Smith, -
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Okay, doofus newbie question. I boight a wooden strap cutter before Christmas, but life got busy and it got put aside. I know that it came with instuctions on how to put a blade in (didn't come with a blade in), but i've managed to "file" the instructions in a very safe place.. ie I cannot find them! I have managet to pull the strap cutter apart (perhaps I shouldn't have!!!!), so know I have two separate wooden pieces, and a round metal disc thingy, that fell out, that should go "somewhere"! I'm sure it is the sort of thing that once you have done it once, it's easy, but I cannot figure it out. So, once you have all finished laughing and splerking into your coffee, t…
Last reply by fredk, -
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Hello I am a complete beginner and came across this excellent forum by chance (google :D). I would like to attempt replicating a specific belt from a movie. I have several pictures of the belt but have been unable to identify the basket weave stamp used here. Is this perhaps an old stamp that is no longer in production? Maybe someone recognizes it and could provide some information about the stamp 😊 The belt itself should be approximately 2.25 inches wide. Therefore, I estimate the height of the stamp to be around 0.2 inches, which seems like an unusual size. Here are a few pictures of the belt: All the basket weave stamps I find …
Last reply by chuck123wapati, -
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I have used a wide variety of tools for cutting copper rivets. Most of the time the cutting the #12's you can use just about anything however when cutting #9's I find you need much better cutters. I use mostly what is call "End Cutting Pliers" or "End Nipping Pliers" in 8" or 10" length. They give me just about the right amount left above the burr. I have used and abused the cheap $20 China ones and the expensive ones made in Germany. None were what I would consider as good as the Japanese ones. Less effort which really doesn't matter much for one or two rivets but if you are doing a batch the hand starts to really hurt old hands. I needed a new set of pliers an…
Last reply by kgg, -
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It looks like Tandy Leather once again is trying to stay relevant in the leather crafting market. Although the Craftool Pro series of tools was a definite step up from the standard Craftool lineup, for the last two years, they have been trying to win back the serious hobbyist/small business as well as leather professionals alike by bringing in more professional grade tools. First they started with a new line of machines called TandyPro, which now also includes the Cobra series of sewing machines, as well as the Cowboy Outlaw. Just recently they add some Barry King tools as well as the TandyPro hand tools lineup made by a Chinese firm and are labeled Since: TandyPro® Hand …
Last reply by CalgaryJim, -
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Others have probably tried this already but since I discovered it new for myself, I thought of putting it up here. I use thick leather splits as punching mats. I often also use a block of wax. I sometimes place the split piece on the wax block so that even if the punch goes through, it just gets lubricated with wax. When I was last melting the wax block to smoothen it, I dipped the leather split piece in the melted wax. I let it absorb for a minute or two on both sides and then kept it aside to dry. It dried hard, harder than the original split and it works well as a punching mat. For the wax, I used a mix of paraffin wax and beeswax. Plain paraffin is to…
Last reply by SUP, -
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I recently upgraded to a custom head knife from a local blacksmith, Eric Esterl. My previous knife worked but dulled quickly and just didn’t hold up. Eric’s head knife is a whole different level—beefy, beautifully balanced, and razor-sharp. It slices through 10oz veg-tan leather like butter, and the edge retention is outstanding. It's overall length is 6.5", head width is 4.75". You can tell right away it was made by a craftsman who understands both metal and leather. If you're serious about your tools, I highly recommend checking out Eric Esterl at Element Esterl. This knife has already earned a permanent spot on my bench and I'm thinking of having a skivi…
Last reply by MarshalWill, -
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I'm a sucker for organization. For me it's more important than cleanliness, such that a little dust and scrap on the floor isn't a big deal, but tools and materials better be put away! My main tenants of fabrication, metal working with some occasional wood work, produce lots of flying chips, dust, and debris, and as such I don't like hanging tools up and leaving them exposed on the wall, opting instead to keep stuff in drawers, cabinets, trays, etc. Leatherwork typically doesn't make as much airborne mess, other than painting/dying and burnishing, which IMO is best neutralized with vacuum systems at the source or by doing it away from everything, so this opens up the poss…
Last reply by mbnaegle,
