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glockanator

Lining Compared To Burnishing

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I have never lined a holster but the last couple I have done the gum trag/burnish. Is it worth the investment to do lined? Does burnishing make that much difference? Maybe I am over thinking this a bit.

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Burnishing is always worth the time. It gives the product/holster a very proffesional look. As to the lining it all depends on the type of holster and if the customer wants or have it lined. When I make a holster it I a standard to having the edges burnished no matter what unless for some odd reason the customer doesn't like it then ill leave it alone but I do not feel comfortable leaving it like that I have never done anything without burnishing. Take care!

Ralph

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I lined one of my personal holsters. It's a nice touch, but a lot of extra work IMO. I always burnish the interior. Sometimes I'll rub a little neutral show polish in to slick it up more if it's kind of snug.

Look at it this way. Either you can burnish the leather smoother. Or the guns finish can. I figure the customer would appreciate me doing it.

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I will not burnish the interior of any holster I line, . . . nor will I put anything other than neatsfoot oil on the lining.

Anything you put on the lining will make the lining harder, . . . physically harder, . . . which in turn defeats the purpose of the liner, . . . to be a soft place for the weapon to lay.

Gum trag in my opinion is one of the worst offenders. To try it, . . . take a piece of 8/9 oz leather, . . . burnish the flesh side with GT, . . . let it dry, . . . then rub it hard against your face. Feels like sandpaper. I'm not putting that abrasive against my customers weapon, . . . even if it is a "plastic fantastic".

May God bless,

Dwight

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I only line holsters if there is a specific reason to do so -- at the customer's request, or because the holster body is chrome-tanned, or because the holster body needs more strength.

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Well, here's from the old grump. Personally I don't truly 'line' my holsters, but I do make them from two layers of light leather bonded together. This produces a lined interior in essence. (no flesh side showing) My usual work consists of cutting the pattern, then cutting a second one in mirror image (but slightly larger to assist in fitting) then bonding them together with Weldwood Contact cement. For most of the current fad of polymer framed shooters, I use 4/5 oz veg tanned shoulder leather. After the two pieces are bonded together and trimmed, I proceed as it were a single piece of 8/9 oz. leather. After wet molding and drying, the holster is substantially more rigid or stiffer than a one made of a single layer of similar weight leather -- with the added benefit of being smooth on the inside. When John Bianchi started out making holsters in his garage, that's how he did many of his handmade early pieces-- difficult to do in an almost completely mechanized environment, as is his place in Temecula, CA. today. It takes a bit more time, but I feel that the end result is worth it AND, nobody expects an old fart to do anything in a hurry. The only burnishing done is on all edges. Mike P.S. IMHO gum tragacanth is really nasty sh....cr... er, "stuff".

Edited by katsass

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Visiting other sites I find that those who make western holsters for the period do not "line" their holsters. Having a number of commercially produced competitive holsters, most all are "lined". I suppose any second layer can be called a liner but it is confusing sometimes.

I also use two layers for most holsters. On the western holsters, I use an 8-9 on the outer and 4-5 on the inner. In John Bianchi's DVDs, he advocates an outer of 8-9 and a liner of 7-8. Makes for a really strong holster after wetting and molding and drying.

Edited by Red Cent

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Well, here's from the old grump. Personally I don't truly 'line' my holsters, but I do make them from two layers of light leather bonded together. This produces a lined interior in essence. (no flesh side showing) My usual work consists of cutting the pattern, then cutting a second one in mirror image (but slightly larger to assist in fitting) then bonding them together with Weldwood Contact cement. For most of the current fad of polymer framed shooters, I use 4/5 oz veg tanned shoulder leather. After the two pieces are bonded together and trimmed, I proceed as it were a single piece of 8/9 oz. leather. After wet molding and drying, the holster is substantially more rigid or stiffer than a one made of a single layer of similar weight leather -- with the added benefit of being smooth on the inside. When John Bianchi started out making holsters in his garage, that's how he did many of his handmade early pieces-- difficult to do in an almost completely mechanized environment, as is his place in Temecula, CA. today. It takes a bit more time, but I feel that the end result is worth it AND, nobody expects an old fart to do anything in a hurry. The only burnishing done is on all edges. Mike P.S. IMHO gum tragacanth is really nasty sh....cr... er, "stuff".

I'm with katass, after seeing him rave about the results I tried it. Every personal rig I've made since is done this way - to me if gives the rig a better 'bite' without being over the top and has become the only form of lining that I offer.

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Just so its cut and dry don't put GT on the inside of the holster?

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Well, here's from the old grump. Personally I don't truly 'line' my holsters, but I do make them from two layers of light leather bonded together. This produces a lined interior in essence. (no flesh side showing) My usual work consists of cutting the pattern, then cutting a second one in mirror image (but slightly larger to assist in fitting) then bonding them together with Weldwood Contact cement. For most of the current fad of polymer framed shooters, I use 4/5 oz veg tanned shoulder leather. After the two pieces are bonded together and trimmed, I proceed as it were a single piece of 8/9 oz. leather. After wet molding and drying, the holster is substantially more rigid or stiffer than a one made of a single layer of similar weight leather -- with the added benefit of being smooth on the inside. When John Bianchi started out making holsters in his garage, that's how he did many of his handmade early pieces-- difficult to do in an almost completely mechanized environment, as is his place in Temecula, CA. today. It takes a bit more time, but I feel that the end result is worth it AND, nobody expects an old fart to do anything in a hurry. The only burnishing done is on all edges. Mike P.S. IMHO gum tragacanth is really nasty sh....cr... er, "stuff".

Do you stitch everywhere the leather bonds together or do you only stitch your normal stitch lines?

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Glockanator -- Just so you understand my earlier statement about GT being nasty uh..... stuff. I bought one bottle of the uh,,,,, stuff ten or more years ago. After playing with it full strength, diluted, warm, cold etc. , and ruining a pot-load of good scrap leather, I took that bottle and threw it as far as I could out into the middle of Mojave Desert. May it be discovered in 10,000 years and befuddle whatever creature lives on this ball of mud at that time. JMHO. Mike

Edited by katsass

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usmc --- Yes, all places that produce a cut edge are stitched. These pics may show the amount of stitching required, it takes a while. Mike 003-5.jpg

004-7.jpg

001-3-1.jpg

Edited by katsass

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I treat the inside of all of my unlined holsters with Fiebings Aussie Leather Conditioner. It's a non-penetrating, beeswax-based product that seal and smooths the fleshy side of the leather and creates a kinder surface. Simple and easy to apply -- smear it on, rub it in a bit, you're done with it.

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Thank you sir. I figured you would have to stitch everywhere, but I was reading it wrong.

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usmc --- Yes, all places that produce a cut edge are stitched. These pics may show the amount of stitching required, it takes a while. Mike 003-5.jpg

004-7.jpg

001-3-1.jpg

Mike, you make some really purty stuff for an old grump. ;-)

Do you hand stitch all that?

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SouthernCross: Yes, I hand stitch all of my work. I was taught to stitch by a WWI cavalry soldier waaay back when I was about 17 yrs. old. That was one OLD man. Don't figure on even trying a machine, I just don't like the way the stitching appears. Thanks for the compliment. Mike

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