DoubleKCustomLeathercraft

I was a bit too late, and my explanation was a little off. Glad you got it figured out

That's freaking badass! What a perfect match.

The edge kote made the project pop a bit more. That really finished the project off nicely. I'm sure you'll get years of enjoyment from this

Thank you. I used 4/5oz Water Buffalo along the sides. The water Buffalo will show for some stretch if necessary. I really like working with that leather. Extremely durable while being soft to the touch. The body is one piece of leather. I skived the bottom where it folds to make it easier to form since I did use a 9/10 oz veg tan. I also skived the cover flap with a slight taper from the fold to the tip. I'm very well practiced with my skife since I primarily work with heavy leather. I also took a small "finger" plane and set it up in a way that I can take any imperfections from skiving and flatten them out. Something i haven't seen anyone do, but it does work with some adjustments to the blade angle.

Now I'm itching to make another gun fighter rig. I'll have to find a knife to compliment the setup. Thanks, you got me spending money now haha Looks good. Enjoyed watching the process through your posts. Thanks

Fancy weights you got there haha. Those are sweet Mike. The dye work looks mint. I'm using the factory tow hooks off my (3rd gen) power wagon lol. I glued leather to the face, so it's not bare metal on my protects

I finished my customer's order with the moose carved holsterthat I posted about a week ago. I ended up having to make the elk holster a second time because I forgot to adjust my pattern for the suede lining. I figured it out right away, and the entire time I was making it i thought something was off. The phone case was my first that I've been commissioned to make. My customer was absolutely ecstatic about it. Mainly I think he was more excited about the grizzly. The knife sheath is for a little damascus pattern skinner. We decided to go with the snapping turtle leather inlay because it's such a small window to carve on. I still have some of the leg leather left from a couple of tail inputs inlaid orders. Elk holster- Ruger P85 Moose holster- SCCY CPX2 Grizzly- Galaxy S+ series/size phone Snapping turtle inlay- unknown knife maker, small skinner

I've ordered from all 3. Tandy is OK for some things, hardware, tools that don't break the bank. Great place to start a collection. Their signature series swivel knife is my go to out of the half dozen I bought beforehand. I've only ordered from Springfield 2 times, and the second time is all it took. They held up my order of nearly a grand in hardware and some tools, for a $3 belt buckle (if I remember right). They didn't contact me about it. I had to email them a couple times with no response until they shipped it. I do like their pattern packs they have available. I just haven't needed to buy any since learning to make my own. Weaver is my primary source for all things leather. Now that they've acquired Ohio travel bag they've really increased the variety of hardware from economy to high quality. They have a great selection of leathers, I use Hermann oak and/or the water Buffalo for almost anything I make. They're prices aren't fair. You'll be looking at more invested into quality products. They make great tools, especially the machines with their name. Made in their factory in Ohio so you're getting true american made. Weaver has a video on YouTube with Chuck touring the machine shop. Check out montana leather company in billings. They're my second choice, sometimes my first depending on what the leather prices are. Best customer service so far. Any problems or any questions and they're going to answer. They have contacted me to offer a different selection of leather because the sides they had left weren't the best. Hard to beat that anywhere you go these days. They also have a good selection of bison if you ever wanted to dabble in something fun to work with.

Diluting only really helps make the due to a bit further when you are using feibings pro dye. I tried doing that but found it wasn't really making much of a difference, if any. What's great about pro dye is that it will not "over dye" for lack of knowledge on what it would actually be called. In other words of you get a variance in shades you can go back and dye the lighter spots, or even the whole thing to make it more uniform. Where as other dyes you try that and you end up with hard over lapped areas that can make a piece really blotchy. So basically what i guess I'm getting at is, if your saturate the leather enough the colors come out very evenly without getting darker and darker with every try. You'll reach a point that it just doesn't change the tones anymore. Hope that makes sense

Oops, meant to say until I get the heat flowing. It gets -30's f here every year for a few weeks with it dropping as low as -54. So I even worry about dyes and the such, but haven't had any freezing issues with them. My shop is solar powered, off grid cargo trailer conversion and i do have to worry about batteries too

Did it ever freeze? I know most the finishes can't freeze, but I've never found out why. I'm not experimenting either lol. I have to keep my finishes inside the home during winter because my shop will be just as cold as the sub zero temps outside until I get the gear flowing

For those that want to see the grizzly. None of these are fully finished yet. I just got the antique stage done. I'll give em about half hour to 45 minutes to set good before I put finishes on top.

Here's the two holsters before dye work went in. I was in the fence on dying then because I really love the burnish Hermann oak produces.

Right now I'm currently working on a customer's order, 2 holsters, an inlaid exotic knife sheath and a phone case. He's really into hunting which of course is right up my alley too. So it's a fun project for me since it's something I truly enjoy. When I first sunk a stamp into lathe I never thought I'd get into figure carving, but it's becoming one of my favorite parts of the craft. Here I'll post a picture of the moose holster in wiring on. I just got done antiquing it with Sheridan brown. It's not finished yet, and if you're familiar with finishes you know it will mellow out some and get a little richer color at the same time.

There's a set!? That would have saved me so much headache trying to figure out what I want.

That turned out beautiful. This style of carving is always a struggle for me. I hope to be there someday

I run into the same problem. I dunno if there's a daily limit or something on top of size. Either way, come back the next day and continue on.

Beautiful gun! I read dikman's response and I disagree. I like deer/elk antler anything just about, but I'd rather have those spalted maple grips any day. But then, spalted maple is one of my favorite woods.

Here's my first rig I built 7 years ago.

Awesome. My first holster build was a gunfighter rig from Tandy's pattern pack. Because I carry such a long revolver I did the curved belly with a drop loop that I adjusted to ride even lower than the pattern suggested. It's hard to draw a 7½" barrel if the holster rides too high. I think this was my third project, maybe fourth because I got hooked immediately and dove into this leathercraft world has first into the deep end. I'll post a picture of the Hand of God (Russel Crowe) rig I made from the "3:10 to Yuma" movie. My client just happened to have the same model gun from the movie so I couldn't resist talking him into this build. He just wanted to show off to his "cowboy" friends in Texas when they drive cattle.

Nicely done. Wheat kind of camera you using? Those pictures are crisp

Rough out might solve your slipping problem, but it will polish and become smooth like top grain over time. There's pros and cons to everything. I would do rough out before suede personally. Rough out is basically flipping the leather. Instead of the top grain being facing out it will be the "flesh" side of the leather. Nice thing is it can be sanded without damage to bring back the "roughness" if it does start to get too polished and slip.

Expand. Try different types of leather. I was hesitant to do the same, and only wanted to work with veg tan leather. But then I got into making shoulder holsters and chest holsters and I wanted to line the harnesses with something softer. I first went with a crazy horse pull up from Tandy that was ok feeling, but didn't edge or burnish well at all. I recently started using Water Buffalo from weaver. That stuff is awesome up work with. It makes great wallets, and it's a very nice feel for a liner on belts and shoulder straps. It's durable as all hell. As far as personalization goes. How far do you want to go? Just initials? A hot stamp machine should be more than sufficient for that. But if you are willing to practice and sacrifice a bit is leather, go with a thin veg tan that you can tool yourself. This allows you a lot more variety of font available. The sky is the limit there. I don't even own a set of letter stamps because I want to be about to offer any font (old English styles I refuse to do) Again, expand. Variety is good. Getting sick on just one type of product can really freeze up your business. Phone cases to laptop bags (not just sleeves) might really help expand to different clientele. Small practical items are good, little investment good return when they sell. But that's niche and it's constantly changing. Key fobs are always being redesigned as an example. The problem is if you make up too many of one thing and it suddenly falls out of style, you're stuck with it. So being able to adjust to a ever changing climate would help and it's hard to predict. I started out only wanting to make belts. They're fast easy profit in my opinion. But belts are not a sought after here so I had to expand. I them started making knife sheaths and simple holsters, hoping to keep my time invested lower. That didn't work either. I ended up having to really change my way of thinking. Getting calls for shoulder holsters was when I really changed how I was going about drumming up business. I listened and I got into designing my own products. It took me a month of cardboard and tape designs, 3 different leather harness designs and a small period of testing out the ergonomics of my shoulder straps before I settled on what I thought would be best. This is the sacrifice I mentioned. It cost me probably a half side of leather and a total of a few months of my time testing and adjusting everything. It's my number one selling item. I've now personally designed a fully modular shoulder harness system and chest harness system that can accommodate anything from a cell phone case to a holster and with a little adjustment they can be used for cameras or binoculars. I've even venture out into exotics and bag making. (I hate making purses but I will) So what I'm getting at here is, get out and explore new avenues. Ask your customers what else they would be interested in. You'll be amazed at how many will be thrilled to help if you ask. Sell some of your new products at a way lower price than normal and inform the customer that you want them to help test the product for that discount. Then get their feedback on what might need improvements or what's perfect. Not all projects are going to work but when they do it pays off ten fold.

If you sharpen knives, or use any kind of file on metal and don't get it all cleaned up. This is exactly what happens. The little microscopic shavings will stain the leather. I ran into this problem and it took me a few months of research to digit it out. I no longer allow filling or sharpening in the leather shop and it solved my problem

I have a customer that ordered a gym belt from me a few years ago. He tried a couple new styles and he wasn't comfortable so he asked me to reproduce a "classic" style from when he was a body builder (40 years ago) The belt itself is even older than that. It was his dad's and made in the 60's I guess. He liked it enough to order a second one with a full western theme carving on the back support. And I liked the feel of it (two lower back surgeries) that I made myself one as a core and back support I use when felling trees, splitting wood, anything that's going to require strain on my back. And some days I just wear it because it is so comfortable and supportive. Ok, now that I've explained all that I have a couple questions. Is there anything else in the construction of these belts? I used a stiffener in all 3 that I've made to help add extra support. You can keep it "thinner" without compromising support. Do you really want suede? It's soft and comfy at first bit it can absorb more sweat and become kind of rough to the touch over time. Full grain will still soak up sweat but if softens it a bit over time. Almost like oiling a baseball glove. My recommendation is to get it full grain veg tan. Double layer will always reduce stretch and sag over a single layer. Thicker isn't always stronger or better. You want tight full grain, no mushy stuff. It's hard to shop for something like this online. Getting your hands on them and feeling the difference would really give you a better idea of what you want. Of course these companies do have a reputation to uphold so I'm sure they use great quality stuff. I probably didn't help much but maybe there's a couple things I mentioned to get you thinking.