Digit

You can also read the website you took the image from.

If it's chrome tan, then the rigidity comes from its shape in combination with a reinforcement material like Salpa. Metal wiring in the seams would show through.

The only thing I'd like to add is that machine stitching might cause your fabric base to fray: in order to sew leather, you need a sharp leather point needle to cut through the material, while when sewing fabric you use a round point. The round point finds its way between the threads of the fabric; stitching fabric with a leather point could cut the threads in the fabric, weakening the fabric at the stitch line and eventually making the patch loosen and/or making a hole in the fabric. It might a a bit far-fetched; surely other people here have practical experience with this.

I've bought a small splitter from AliExpress, which is basically a clamp for a snap-off knife and a spring-loaded roller. It's not European-made, but definitely within your budget: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005005967041306.html I have no idea how long the blades would last, but being standard snap-offs, you can easily replace them with something good. You can also strop those blades to keep them sharp. As for splitting straps, I found that starting at an angle and moving the leather side-to-side so that the knife makes a cutting motion accross the leather (similar as to how you'd properly use a wood plane) makes it easier to pull the leather through. I you have (a budget for) a bell skiver, you can also use that for splitting narrow-ish straps, possibly in two or three passes. Finding an affordable one second-hand can be challenging though; I've found a nearly-antique Fortuna for 450 euros last year on the Belgian variant of kleinanzeigen.

Leatherhouse in Germany sells Crazy Horse: https://www.leatherhouse.com/leather/crazy-horse-leather.php Check 'turkis' or 'blue' I haven't ordered Crazy Horse from them yet, so I can't say anything about the exact color.

Salpa is Salamander (brand) leather reinforcement (factory-made by the roll from leather scrap mixed with latex and pressed to uniform thickness of .4, .6, .8 or 1mm). I guess the OP has cut out some forms and glued/clamped/pinned them together to form a rough prototype. At school we use salpa to reinforce chrome tan leather to form shape-holding bags and accessories. If you mostly work with veg tan you probably don't need it.

Also found it under the name 'rope clamp': https://www.pethardware.com/en/rope-clamps/metal-rope-clamp-nickel-plated-5961/

I haven't made any cuffs yet, but I have bought a set without any padding twenty years ago. It was pretty decent and if asked I'd probably base my own design off off those. The only improvement I'd make would be to ensure the edges of the cuff that touch the skin of the wrist would be smooth (instead of a square cut leather strip). Whether to pad or not probably depends on what you want to achieve: if it's for some soft kinkyness or as a fashion item, padding can make it more comfortable to wear. If it's intended for restriction, do know that padding can be compressed so that the wearer of the cuffs could wriggle out. Tightening the cuff would prevent that, but that could also potentially restrict blood flow.

I don't think Fred meant you to seach for your exact truck. Those metal mounting brackets are pretty generic; I've encountered them before on cars from different makes. Just look for panels with this kind of mount, saw the plastic mounts out of the scrap panels (take at least an inch around the mounts so you have room for screws), glue/screw them to your MDF board in the right positions, and finally upholster the MDF in leather.

At school we learn to cut liner a bit larger than the leather panels to glue it to. That way you have extra space to apply glue so that the glue extends to the very edge of the leather. Afterwards the excess liner is cut off. We also always stitch edges so that the liner doesn't come loose. If liner and leather is properly glued together and cut to the exact same size, painting the edges shouldn't be a problem. I've painted edges with three layers (outer leather, salpa reinforcement, and pigskin liner) without a problem. If stuff doesn't exactly line up you can start with a coat of filler before applying the first coat of edge paint.

If by microsuede you mean something like Alcantara, then it's a woven fabric. Woven things always fray eventually. You can limit fraying by stitching in addition to glueing: if you stitch parallel to the warp, you secure the weft so that only warp threads on the 'free' side of the stitch line can come loose (if they're not glued). You should never apply rolling pressure when glueing something non-stretchy to something spongy: by pressing it down you make the spongy bit expand. When you remove the pressure it contracts again and the surfaces of both materials won't match anymore. This can result in wrinkling or warping depending on either materials' strength.

Thank you for your insights. In my case leatherwork is a starting hobby, so I don't have much experience and most of what I do goes with a lot of thinking, trial & error and experimenting. I also don't have a drawer filled with patterns (yet), so I spend a lot of time designing them. This case was an easy one in that respect because I could base myself on an existing pattern that I could adjust. I'm currently working on a biker's leg bag where I have to design everything from scratch, which seems to have taken as long as actually putting the bag together. At this point in time I'm happy to get material costs covered, plus some extra that I can invest in new stuff. Good point about overheads though; from what I charged for this customer I figure I have my material and overhead costs covered. I don't have to make a living out of leatherwork, I have a full-time day job as well that I won't let go of. I'd have to charge over 45 euros per hour on top of materials and overheads to match my current job's hourly rate and with my current abilities that's out of the question.

Yesterday I finished my first order: a client of my partner asked if I could make her a leather case for putting her reading glasses in. They're some special kind of foldable ones, so I took the pattern from the case we made at school and adjusted it to fit her glasses. I gave her a choice of colours from what I have lying around: black, green or brown outside, combined with a black, blue, red or brown inside. I had no idea what to ask for it so a gave a price fork of between 10 and 20 euros. This is how it turned out and I'm pretty satisfied with it. I hope she'll be too. Afterwards I did some calculations for material costs: the surrounding rectangle of the pattern came down to 400cm² (rounded up), so that made for 3.55 euros of leather, salpa and suede. Added to that some guestimates of 20 ml of glue, a metre of thread, 5 ml edge paint and two small neodymium magnets I had lying around, I reached a material cost of around 5.5 euros, so I asked for 15. What would you guys have charged for something like this?

The non-medical variant is simply called a (foldable) workshop crane. It comes in various configurations but it usually has two wheeled legs that go under or to the sides of the load and an arm (sometimes telescopic) that can be moved up or down hydrolically, pneumatically or with a screw drive. Max carrying weight goes up to two or three metric tons, depending on the model. My mechanic has one in his garage to lift engines out of cars.

I stick a bit of paper masking tape underneath my machine's feet to smooth out the teeth if needed. Most of the time I sew lightweight things and I use a very small walking foot (aound 2x3mm smooth footprint), which I think is intended to sew near zippers or around magnets/buttons.