MarlinDave

In College I bought a $50 guitar. Never learned to play it - action too stiff for a beginner. My roommate and friends had a fantastic bluegrass band and tried to teach me to play. I could play the fire out of one of the group’s $1200 Martin flattop. But never mastered mine. I still believe if I had that Martin then I would have learned to play. Beginners need good equipment more than old hands do. Frustration compiled with beginner stumbles can make you give it up.

Ate supper, went back and reset tensions and thread length. Close to where I started on settings. Oddly enough I hav both operators manual and service manual and neither shows thread path.

I tried a bobbin of 138 and locked things up. Wrapped up feed dogs, lots of pulling out tangles. Back with 92 bobbin, tension is all off. And thread length doubled.And then I also thought -25 degree leather in my unseated shop is probably tougher to sew than 60 degree leather.

A seeder stamp or grind the point off on a nail.

Thanks everybody.

Kroil penetrating oil might. Or Bolt Buster. Might hold soldering iron against shaft.

When we set this machine up somebody suggested using the size smaller thread on the bobbin which I have now. Is that needed or can I run 138 top and bottom.?

So a 135 x 16 is for leather and a 135 x17 is for fabric. And a DP point is for leather. Why is there a 135 x 17 with a DP point?

So if 207 on top, have to be 138 on bottom, or 207 on bobbin too?

Thanks. All the stars have to line up for me to see a U tube video at my place.

Thanks. What needle are you using Ewe?

Looks like I have 18, 21, 22 and 23. The leather is double shoulder veg tanned. Can I exceed 138 thread on this machine?

I have a Consew 225 that I use for 8-9 oz leather. The needles I have are 135 x 16 and 135 x 17. I am sure these are not leather needles. I use 138 thread on top and 92 on the bottom. What is the largest thread I can run on this machine? With which needles? I am assuming I would get better performance with leather needles. Some of these needles came with the machine, some I bought from Thread Exchange. Last time I tried the 136x 16 the 138 thread would not work. Please advise.

Maybe a complete floating holster all around the gun, mounted with maybe 3 or 4 rivets but not tight to strap ?

Viking, I think it would work on any kind of boot. The holster lacing is independent of boot lacing. Length of backing leather would vary. Dwight, yes it is too flexible. This is the second one I made and the 3 rd or so pattern. It is 9-10 oz veg tanned, wet formed with gun in it and strapped to boot to dry on heat register. The pouch is rigid from wet forming. Should have been smaller but for sure no way to extract from a tighter holster. I am thinking a metal plate behind inner leather strap to keep it rigid. The commercial one I saw was Kydex. I don’t know if it’s legal to post a commercial link for an example here. And yes it’s fine to pick on it. Need an idea that works. I can’t machine sew more layers or I would double layer it and that weight leather is about as heavy as I seem able to work with. That gun also fits perfectly in my Niteize cell phone holster. Might need complete holster attached to strap. I

I have found these hook utility blades really great, especially on curves. Hard to keep vertical and hard to find. I think these came from Lowe’s. I also use a wheel fabric cutter a lot on straights, but the steel ruler ruins them pretty quick. I also picked up a $6 led desk lamp at Walmart. Small, easy to move and pinpoint.

I saw a similar Kydex boot holster for a small auto. Thought I would try it out for a Bond Arms derringer. Second try, both have problems. Should be sturdy as it is glued, sewed and riveted. Finished with EVOO that I am not that impressed with. Also my first shell loops. Too far apart I am sure although I measured cartridge plus 2x leather thickness. Main problem is gun won’t extract when on boot. Extracts fine off boot. Carries well, comfortable. Wondering if it needs some kind of stiffener behind pouch.

I would say I want it if I knew how to PM.

Mostly I need some project time as I am working full time plus. Probably get one leather project out a month.

I need all the help I can get.

I’m just across the line in Tennessee.

I am putting up a building for my leather working stuff and some other rec items. It will be a pole building and have plank floor and metal roof and walls. No heat unless I am working in here. My leather is in the living room floor now. Thinking of using an upright metal cabinet to store leather rolls. All veg tanned. Could add a gun safe humidifier or light bulb for a little heat. Just want to avoid green leather mold,and mildew smell. Any ideas?